Great write up Brian
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Bookmaked 10billgordon
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Any from the 1st class industrial brands such as SKF, NSK, Nacchi, Schaeffler and NTN
For SKF the suffix should be 2RS1, 2RS2, 2RSH, don’t get the 2RSL or 2RST, these are the low friction ones that don’t seal as good
Also, since you are a fan of waterproofing, you could try to find them with the W prefix for stainless construction
For example, a wheel bearing with the proper seal and made of stainless would be W 608-2RS1
And also I would recommend buying for a reputable source since there is ton of fakes out there
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Where did you get those spacers/circlip? I am currenly looking to aquire some.
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The circlip is from amazon, the 8mm copper washer is from amazon, the bronze spacer was on this motor or another one, the steel washer is a skateboard speed ring.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G215SO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZBCJHE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S4BL118/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Those thin bronze washers are the most useful for this, but I don’t have a handy source for them. Don’t lose them when you remove them from motors.
You need to adjust the height to match so it holds the can as tight as possible so you don’t get clunking noises while in operation.
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Thanks a lot, any tips on how to select the right circlip dimension? I guess it depends on the motor?
All of these parts are for 8mm shafts.
Motors with a 10mm shaft may be all different sized washers, bearings, and circlips.
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Lol I will be using the motor you have daily. just found this. I definitely sent my motors to the right Guru
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Can anyone give me the bearings used in cheap 50xx motors?
Hmm might be the same, given the motor I’m looking at has a 8mm shaft.
I was also kind of wondering about the 50mm motors with 6mm shafts.
-general info-
Bearing Naming Convention / Designation / Nomenclature:
Generally:
The designations of most SKF rolling bearings follow a system that may consist of a basic designation with or without one or more prefixes and/or suffixes
| 1st Digit Code | Bearing type |
|---|---|
| 0 | Double row angular contact ball bearing |
| 1 | Self-aligning ball bearing |
| 2 | Spherical roller bearing, spherical roller thrust bearing |
| 3 | Tapered roller bearing |
| 4 | Double row deep groove ball bearing |
| 5 | Thrust ball bearing |
| 6 | Single row deep groove ball bearing |
| 7 | Single row angular contact ball bearing |
| 8 | Cylindrical roller thrust bearing |
| C | CARB toroidal roller bearing |
| N | Cylindrical roller bearing. Two or more letters are used to identify the number of the rows or the configuration of the flanges, e.g. NJ, NU, NUP, NN, NNU, NNCF |
| QJ | Four-point contact ball bearing |
| T | Tapered roller bearing in accordance with ISO 355 |
.
| Suffixes | External design (seals, snap ring groove, etc.) |
|---|---|
| -RS1, -2RS1 | Contact seal, NBR, on one or both sides |
| -RSH2, -2RSH2 | Contact seal, FKM, on one or both sides |
| -RSL, -2RSL | Low-friction seal, NBR, on one or both sides |
| -RST, -2RST | Low-friction seal, NBR, on one or both sides |
| -RZ, -2RZ | Non-contact seal, NBR, on one or both sides |
| -Z, -2Z | Shield on one or both sides |
.
i.e.
628/8-2Z
6 - Single row deep groove ball bearing
28 - width/height series code, 16mm OD x 5mm width
/8 - bore diameter, 8mm bore
2Z - shield on both sides
*many manufacturers do things slightly differently. just enough to be confusing. but the above is a good start
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The red paint / glue, is that to prevent the epoxy from de-laminating? And what is it? I have used a similarly colored spray on conformal silicone paint to water proof PCB before.
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It’s MG Chemicals #4228 red insulating varnish.
It keeps brake dust and debris from going between the windings and also dampens their vibrations. A side-effect is less heat removal, so for me it increases longevity and reliability, at the expense of slightly reduced maximum power throughput.
Luckily it comes in gallon size.
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I saw someone’s nipple get caught in this once.
Don’t press the motor against your chest in an attempt to let the rotor come down slowly.
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Heads up: this is incredibly difficult (bearing replacement) on a Sealed Maytech 6374. Absolutely cannot recommend trying to do unless you have an arbor press. Tolerances are tight
Maybe putting the bearings in your freezer overnight would be enough… hard to say
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There are some nice tidbits of information in here about repairing a broken winding
and the aspirin trick
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Nice asprin trick. any insulation left on makes soldering near impossible
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Great writeup, I’m looking to build a few of these for myself. Out of curiosity, did you ever test the power of the motor? Also, what thickness of wire/number of turns did you do?
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Flipsky bearings are listed as 6800 and 6900.
I thought they used 688ZZ?