Lol I will be using the motor you have daily. just found this. I definitely sent my motors to the right Guru
Can anyone give me the bearings used in cheap 50xx motors?
Hmm might be the same, given the motor Iām looking at has a 8mm shaft.
I was also kind of wondering about the 50mm motors with 6mm shafts.
-general info-
Bearing Naming Convention / Designation / Nomenclature:
Generally:
The designations of most SKF rolling bearings follow a system that may consist of a basic designation with or without one or more prefixes and/or suffixes
1st Digit Code | Bearing type |
---|---|
0 | Double row angular contact ball bearing |
1 | Self-aligning ball bearing |
2 | Spherical roller bearing, spherical roller thrust bearing |
3 | Tapered roller bearing |
4 | Double row deep groove ball bearing |
5 | Thrust ball bearing |
6 | Single row deep groove ball bearing |
7 | Single row angular contact ball bearing |
8 | Cylindrical roller thrust bearing |
C | CARB toroidal roller bearing |
N | Cylindrical roller bearing. Two or more letters are used to identify the number of the rows or the configuration of the flanges, e.g. NJ, NU, NUP, NN, NNU, NNCF |
QJ | Four-point contact ball bearing |
T | Tapered roller bearing in accordance with ISO 355 |
.
Suffixes | External design (seals, snap ring groove, etc.) |
---|---|
-RS1, -2RS1 | Contact seal, NBR, on one or both sides |
-RSH2, -2RSH2 | Contact seal, FKM, on one or both sides |
-RSL, -2RSL | Low-friction seal, NBR, on one or both sides |
-RST, -2RST | Low-friction seal, NBR, on one or both sides |
-RZ, -2RZ | Non-contact seal, NBR, on one or both sides |
-Z, -2Z | Shield on one or both sides |
.
i.e.
628/8-2Z
6 - Single row deep groove ball bearing
28 - width/height series code, 16mm OD x 5mm width
/8 - bore diameter, 8mm bore
2Z - shield on both sides
*many manufacturers do things slightly differently. just enough to be confusing. but the above is a good start
The red paint / glue, is that to prevent the epoxy from de-laminating? And what is it? I have used a similarly colored spray on conformal silicone paint to water proof PCB before.
Itās MG Chemicals #4228 red insulating varnish.
It keeps brake dust and debris from going between the windings and also dampens their vibrations. A side-effect is less heat removal, so for me it increases longevity and reliability, at the expense of slightly reduced maximum power throughput.
Luckily it comes in gallon size.
I saw someoneās nipple get caught in this once.
Donāt press the motor against your chest in an attempt to let the rotor come down slowly.
Heads up: this is incredibly difficult (bearing replacement) on a Sealed Maytech 6374. Absolutely cannot recommend trying to do unless you have an arbor press. Tolerances are tight
Maybe putting the bearings in your freezer overnight would be enoughā¦ hard to say
There are some nice tidbits of information in here about repairing a broken winding
and the aspirin trick
Nice asprin trick. any insulation left on makes soldering near impossible
Great writeup, Iām looking to build a few of these for myself. Out of curiosity, did you ever test the power of the motor? Also, what thickness of wire/number of turns did you do?
Flipsky bearings are listed as 6800 and 6900.
I thought they used 688ZZ?