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My knee is still fucked from my stupid 13mph fall. It do be like that. Can’t run, not that it hurts but it feels so weird.
So on a 4wd build should it be caution x 2?
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Don’t discharge through a BMS, and don’t ever let the battery die, and you’ll be fine.
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I had a spare bit of time this morning and whipped up the loop key harness…
naturally, i had to change the position so one of the wires id already cut was too effing short
Quick fix and sorted it out… sorted the internal connection lengths and how it can be detached easily if needed…
Closer by degrees
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Holy shit that’s a lot of antispark xt90s 
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Holy crapola. I’d have soldered almost all of those… just one XT90 on the battery and another for the loopkey
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As you’d made it though, be sure to tie string around all those connectors so they don’t vibrate apart in there.
Yep. While i dont trust the 120A fuses. The change of direction from the antisparks i had (sadly necessary) meant i didnt have a lot of choice.
The plan is to use this setup to get it up and running and then take my time setting up the antisparks I’ll then have a redundancy loop key in case of switch failure.
Was planning hot glue… string?
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Geez man, don’t you wanna ride this thing? Gonna be time to replace the pack by time you get it on the street.
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String does the job and can be easily removed later when needed
Cable ties work too but the way yours is set up, I’d use small string.
You just want to make sure the XT connectors don’t vibrate apart, which I’ve had happen on multiple occasions. Even fat XT90 ones.
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So bad, october/xmas was the build wondow… that slammed on my nuts some time ago… the antisparks consumed some months, redirection has taken a month, the loop key was a last minute addition so i didnt have to wait for the bew antisparks.
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This is an interesting technique I haven’t really seen, might try it next time for the really small 22awg wires which are a PITA.
It’s always the really small dumb things that slow down the whole process.
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Is that sensor wire size? Makes my eyes do weird focus shit, i basically have to almost use magnifying glasses
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I realised today that i needed to build a jig to support the running gear while its detached from the deck to run the first detections
I went.through and connected all rhe hall sensors and phase wires and added clear heat shrink. Im thinking of running a sleeve over all the cables but thats all polish and not important right now…
Im going to spend the night hitting everyrhing with 243 and making sure all the hardware is home tight.
Its fucking crazy how the last %10 takes %90 of the time
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Life!!! Fun not flames!!
That was harrowing and epic… and now i have a day of work tmoz and then im away for 5 days 
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It really is. Taking things off and on again to get things to align/measure up or having to get things settled in correctly, is also really annoying. But you’re sooooo close 
I tried to get away with not having the big arsed cable risers in but having the 6485’s in front wont allow it.
Revision 1: swap to 6355 up front and remove cable risers.
For now, I’ll just push on.
Still to do:
get nice mounting hardware
Add cable sleeving externally
Add antisparks
Ride the fucking thing
Work out lights
Naturally i have the wrong size belts so im at least 2 weeks away from riding it, that will give me enough time to address the small bits and pieces while i wait for the belts to arrive.
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Ive been thinking about the enclosure bolts and how i can waterproof that part of the build.
So my idea is to make the top of the deck completely impervious by waterproofing the bolt holes and making enclosure fixed from the bottom.
Method:
Install and epoxy in M4 sleeves and top washer through all bolt holes being critical of both length and angle.
A thin layer of either liquid tape or flexi seal under the top mounted bolts as a permanent fixing. They wont be used to secure the enclosure as such.
The length of the sleeve will be critical as it will be recessed into the riser until compressed by the bolt fixings on the underside.
This eliminates the possibility of water ingress from the top and gives the whole enclosure an effective “torqued” fixing from underneath.
This seems to to me to be a better way than traditional inserts that suffer from repeated use and over torque. I can see the location has bulged on my Flux over time and id rather not repeat that on this one.
…or is it supid and if so why?