TBH, Im not sure what the difference is between the two, it may well be neoprene… it’s all soft squishy shit to me 
Either way, It’ll need that layer so am cutting one to suit, not very happy about it but I think it’ll work fine
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Yeah you want insertion rubber. That stuff you have is definitely too soft. You also have to think about how solid your enclosure is at its fixings. I’ve used insertion rubber twice now but it worked a lot better on my first board with its thick solid carbon fiber enclosure. I could crank it down tight and the whole box would stay flat. New kydex one the bolts just pull it down a bit wavy.
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Gettimg there by degrees… had some assistance with the antisparks after i torched one, still not quite sure why vut i was very nervous about doing it a second time, much thanks to @Tony_Stark for all the assistance.
This is all still pretty loose and not in final locations obvoiusly.
Started final fitment and tightening things down…
Got a protractor out to try and work out the angles, had fun just finding one and rage quit searching the interwebs for the answer… you’d think a couple of markings on the adjustable plates wouldnt be too difficult.
I was pretty happy with the test riser i made a few days ago so set about doing a neater version today which came out nicely i think.
I had a niggling voice in my head being concerned about water ingress through the bolt holes, with luck ill never need to put it to the test but just in case I’ve painted the inner face of the laminate with silicone sealant, it cant hurt and only cost me 10 mins
If im not mistaken, this leaves me with one solder, a tad of hot glue here and there and i can plug it in.
Need to check i have the right FW files, gotta say, im a wee bit nervous 
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You arent concerned by the joins at the corners with that riser? I really wanted a 1 piece solution to eliminate that risk
Nah it’s a rectangular box and the strip rubber was the right width to just cut in lengths. It’s all held in by 16 6mm bolts and each piece is sealed together with Sikaflex so I don’t have any concerns about sealing. I did 1 piece sheets on my other board but that was only because the enclosure is a rounded shape. That solid insertion rubber is just a bit tricky to cut neatly.
It’s only temporary until I get a proper double stack enclosure anyway.
I hear ya, the rounded corners gave me grief too, enter the fabricated gasket 
One of the design constraints of this build was being waterproof, most definitely waterproof, every item has at least 2 levels of waterproofing and in most cases 3, I REALLY don’t want to have to rebuild this, it’s going to be a commute board and will have to do, up to and including, going through running water (mostly over paths but can be significant) This one I did the other day was muuuuch deeper than I though it was going to be…
and even still works!
The need to add a riser to the enclosure to fit in the Antisparks was real so I set about that the other day as well but I was unhappy with the multiple layers which just invited trouble I felt so it needed it’s own solution… off to the Bunnings (Hardware store) I went again and came back with many and varied materials.
I made a few short cross sections of the profile I need to waterproof and have come to this.
1mm x 10mm Flat rubber strip
Butyl Tape
(optional) 3mm dia EVA foam strip
I’m going to leave this strip a few days and then try to get it off, first time playing with Butyl tape but in rather smitten already, seems like it’ll fill any irregularities in the gasket and provide a pretty decent solution, it’s going to be a superior finish to my other solution which was wrap the join in silicone tape which was going to be much more problematic.
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Im not at all happy about the enclosure bolts just sitting on the deck, seems to me that this area requires some detail around it.
So the plan is to bore it out a fraction and epoxy in some countersunk washers, im undecided yet if im going to add sleeves in the bolt holes to ensure that no water can get into the seals around the enclosure ‘gasket’. It seems to me that its the weak spot in my waterproofing of the deck.
Is water ingress around bolt holes an issue generally? I cant say ive seen it or read it TBH but that doesn’t mean it cant happen i guess.
I think the imbedded washers will look pretty sweet.
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I don’t see how it couldn’t be. That’s why it’s recommended to put the layer of butyl tape between the enclosure and deck on the inside of the bolt holes.
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@rusins Im giving consideration to running something like this through to protrude just out the bottom of the deck, water ingress to the enclosure from the top would be impossible, it’d be tricky to get the exact length right but that’s the challenge I guess. It’d need to be the same length as the enclosure and Riser gasket once tightened down so it didn’t protrude from the enclosure.
I’d much prefer a solution that didn’t involve a lot of swearing to remove the enclosure… that Butyl tape sure is some sticky shit
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I don’t see how that would change anything. You’ve essentially just made the bolt thicker, water can still seep in from the top and down the side. However looking at your picture, I think your riser gasket would behave just like butyl tape usually would, so I think what you have is good enough.
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@rusins The outside of the sleeve would be epoxied into the hole so any water could only travel down through the sleeve and out the bottom past the riser gasket… at least, thats what i envisage it doing
Yeah that’s pretty standard. That’s how I’ve done all my boards. Was more referring to the rubber sealing washers for the bolts.
In the US these washers can be found at ACE hardware in the bulk nuts & bolts department. They’re called sealing washers. Conversely you can find them on McMaster-carr as well.
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After a number of icidents around wiring in antispark switches unsuccessfully… spactacularly set fire to one in fact… ive had to have a other think about how to wire this thing up… its amazing how many changes of direction for one reason or.another ive had to take.
Ive been advised to have a think about these
I have some significant trust issues when it comes to anything coming from Flupsky but am happy to be convinced its the best way to go. I was playing around with connection tho and thought id run this past
Isn’t this an alternative thats both safer and cheaper? If i dont have trust in the antispark switches to not fail, then it needs a loop key too… if it needs a loop key, doesnt it not really need the 2 antisparks switches? It seems to me like a whole lot of connections and headache when i can just use a 120A fuse on each controller and run with the loop key.
Seems to me that there are advantages to both ways only with the loop key it limits the extra connections and additiinal hardware/risk.
Think of a loopkey as a circuit interrupter/breaker. In the photo above you’re missing the black negative between batt XT-90 and the loopkey.
As for antisparks, that’s the wrong one. You want the Flipsky “Enhanced” version shown here:
The “Pro” version is prone to failure.
I run a couple of these and they work well with roll-to-start and auto shutdown. They do have a small passive drain you need to keep your eye on, though.
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Do you think there is an advantage to adding them? Id prefer to just use the loop key if it doesnt matter and keep Flipsky out of my board altogether. Initially i wanted to have both a switch and loopkey but now that my options are restricted as far as antisparks go, i think id rather just do without for now.
I guess technically the 120A fuses are also flipsky…
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There’s no question that a loopkey is best. No idle drain, no chance of your board discharging. You just have to make sure you remove it after riding. I run one in my nicest board. I’m just a lazy piece of human garbage, so the others get antisparks.
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