This is Sunlu 
super regular IMHO and around 25ā¬/kg
2 Likes
Thank you for the links! How did you flash it?
Also do you know if itās possible to keep the stock manual leveling procedure (is the deactivated motors a side option or it replace the stock one)?
2 Likes
I followed all the step on the website below. Flashing the screen is optional. I do like the new screen GUI better. I have still manual bed level. I flashed this a whille ago and donāt really remember the steps but the link below walks you through it pretty well.
2 Likes
I was curious if anyone would know of the best way of offloading a slightly used and misbehaving E3D Hemera? I ordered one about 2 months ago for a pretty penny, installed it no problem, but it kept jamming on any print over 30 min long. Tried E3D, they said it was my config, google searches came up with TONS of jamming issues with the Hemera. It looked like the filament was getting caught in the path for flexibles, so ordered a new heatbreak and heatsink, which is basically the entire frame of the extruderā¦ No luck. Replaced my Sidewinder X1 heatblock with a cooper one, then when that failed, I bought a genuine E3D Volcano Heatblock with a MicroSwiss all metal nozzle, It actually started printing a lot better after that, but still would get jammed constantly.
I hit the point where I couldnāt do anything else, was calibrated to 2 decimal points for my steps, firmware was gone over daily, tried everything. O I just got new BMG LXG and a Mosquito Magnum hotend. Th price about did me in, suffice to say I wonāt be eating for a while haha, but I use my printer as a source of income, and a necessity for school since I am in Aerospace Engineering.
So I have the Hemera, the extra heatsink, 3 heatblocks, etc. That was just a bit over $200, then almost $300 on the BMG replacements. I would love to convert the hemera to cash. I canāt find anything wrong with it, just seems like it is a big issue that some people have no prob with and others canāt print at all. Looking to see what the best way of selling this might be, or at the last, donating it to where it can do some good.
I have a 2020 Flashforge Dreaner that I havenāt touched since I got my Sidewinder X1, and have been thinking about rebuilding it, getting rid of all the proprietary Flashforge crap, increasing bed size, etc I could use the Hemera in that, but with a new build, would just complicate stuffā¦
1 Like
Iād probably be interested in the Hemera if youāre selling it.
One thing I think most people arenāt aware of switching to all metal hot ends, is certain filaments need it, but certain ones like PLA, tend to hate them. PETG and PLA tend to need an oiler inline to keep from clogging, and all heat breaks arenāt equal. Iāve tried numerous ones, but the Slice Copperhead BiMetal one is by far the best, and has the least issues.
Iāve got a Sidewinder running a custom copper heat block with a slice bimetal heat break on the stock x1 bmg clone extruder, and it works a treat. Have other machines running some cheap solid titanium all metal heat breaks (without the extended bowden tube) and I had to lap all of them internally and still have to run oiler with some of them. Iāll probably replace them with ones from Slice.
With the volcano itās not as big a deal, because the length of the nozzle body, but with standard V6 or MK8 style heat blocks and nozzles, you really want a copper body on the heat block side of the heat-break, otherwise you have a really short heat path, and itāll be very clog prone.
One other thing is you need to have perfectly seated bowden tube into the heat break, regardless of style, under slight compression, with very nicely square cut ends and no burs, or youāll get clogging, and a losening heat-break.
I struggled with clogs before I understood these factors, to nearly the point of giving up.
2 Likes
Reviving an old thread, but for a good reason. Iām looking to make the upgrades necessary to my printer in order to start reliably printing CF Nylon & Nylon.
I would like to do them all at once so I donāt have to take apart the printer and tune it multiple times.
From what I saw you saying, the bed upgrade isnāt 100% necessary, so I wonāt do that yet, but I might in the future.
I will be getting the ruby nozzle from 3dME and heat break from amazon, but I donāt really know which heat break to get. You mentioned the solid titanium but thereās quite a few on amazon and hard to tell which is good.
Would you be willing to help me out with a list of things you think I would need to do to print cf nylon frequently?
I could still consider the slice bimetal, because I still want the ability to print PLA+
Edit: Seems like thereās a lot of good info here too
1 Like
So Iāve decided to go for the following upgrades:
I really didnāt feel like having to switch over the heater cartridge or the thermistor so I just got new ones to put in the new hot block
1 Like
Iād recommend going all out with a tungsten carbide nozzle instead of Ruby in 0.8mm if you wanna make super duper strong prints with abrasive material.
Found multiple reports of clogged ruby nozzles
1 Like
Well I guess Iāll see how the ruby goes, with the new hot block it should be easy enough to swap out a nozzle
What kind of extruder setup were these reports on?
The tungsten carbide ones still wear down - and Iām not sure I want to go all the way to 0.8, since you lose so much detail at that size
I was thinking I would maybe also pick up a 0.6mm hardened steel or tungsten carbide
1 Like
If Iām right it was Hemera or similar and direct drive (so pretty powerful feed setups) but still with some filaments it fucked up pretty bad (and things were coming back to normal with brass nozzles).
While they do wear down, they still are a good mix of resistance and high temp tho.
True 0.6mm keeps a good detail level, tho Iām using 1mm nozzles now (0.4mm for very fine parts) and it does wonder for me. So I guess 0.8 would be super fast for your use while still being able to do good levels.
For example you cand downsize the lines around 0.65mm with the 0.8mm nozzle and it will be ok too. Iāve been able to print 0.8mm lines with the 1mm nozzle for example
1 Like
Slice engineering parts on the way, will probably post some pictures here when I do the upgrade.
1 Like
Hello. Not sure if you can tell from the pictures but there is a seam going vertically. It is where the new layer starts and ends. Does anyone know how to get rid of this? Using cura slicer. printing outer wall at 60 mm/s.
thanks.
It also prints perfect, then every once in a while it will have this weird imperfection. Not sure if you can see it. Basically, it looks like the extruder path is going into the part for a few layers.
1 Like
Hmm thatās very interesting. I feel like Iāve seen that on mine before but I donāt really know what causes it
Do you have randomized layer starts turned on?
randomized layer starts is not on. I am going to print again at 30 mm/s and see what happens. What is the fastest speed you print at?
Pretty fast, my default is like 60mm/s
What material though? I print TPU a lot slower than PLA+
TecBears PLA. Everything else looks good, its just the start and stop. Do you have coasting enabled?
Iām not really sure, Iād have to look at my Simplify3d settings - never needed to look at that setting before
Anyone ever have an issue with the printer not starting right away? Bed and extruder are up to temperature but it just sits there. Sometimes up to 10 minutes before it starts to print. Sometimes it will even sit for 30 minutes. Then I would have to reboot it a few times before it will start the print.
Iāve never experienced that, that sounds incredibly odd.
Did a PID tune and that did not fix it. I think maybe the temperature is jumping too much so the printer wonāt start until the temperature is stable. I am out of ideas.