Goal is to build it with a mix of printed structure + cut panels, so all the complicated shapes can be printed and the flat stuff can be cut 
Still some work left, need to install front doors which allow enough space to level the bed !
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itās an elegant design so far, looking forward to seeing how you develop it!
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Thank you!!
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uhhhh the casket 
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Sooo I did update the design quite a bit for the Z arms, here is the result 
It is made to fit 500x7.5mm square or b-square pipe, so cheap and stiff altogether!
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Interesting, I donāt know if mine has experienced any z banding but Iām sure that makes it quite stiff
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Yea it does a good job to spread strain and adds a good balance between both axis 
Also I was bothered by the extra width and bolts used in other designs so figured I wanted something more compact in term of footprint (despite the extravagant < shape)! It just uses the stock screws from the printer there, fit & forget
Iāll update them on Thingi and Grabcad now that it is tested, feel free to try them out too 
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Iāll def be doing this, the existing z-braces are a total faff to put together - loads of highly specific parts etc.
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Hello !
After a long wait (and realizing that Thingiverse is a mess) please find below the Z arms files, STL versions
https://grabcad.com/library/minimalist-z-arm-brace-support-artillery-sidewinder-x1-1
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Whatās your favourite PETG to use on this? I originally was using some shitty rolls I got near free from amazon, they were stringy and warpy but printed ok (Speaking of which, I seem to get really bad warping on PETG in general. It might be uneveness of bed temp), I recently ordered a new black roll from amazon and iāve not been able to print anything with it. 8 failed prints basically didnāt get past the first layer and those that did would have under then over extrusion causing the nozzle to scrape and pick up the entire print off the bed.
Assumed my idler arm was broken until i switched back to CF PLA and had excellent prints from itā¦
@Geo_Engineering_FTW i guess because youāre UK too 
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Could be but thatās usually only a problem on larger prints
Yea, I think it was just massively underextruding but im not entirely sure. Not really planning on revisiting PETG for a while, maybe when I have an enclosure for my printer.
Iāve never printed PETG either, PLA+ has been wonderful for me. Nice and strong as well as super easy to print
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hey @Anubis , so far ive only gone through 2 spools and itās of this stuff. It was the cheapest stuff that had good reviews and itās printed perfectly each time for me. Ive not printed using anything else (ever) and i found it very user friendlyā¦
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Yea PLA prints so nicely, there was someone pushing the printed to print PEEK but ive not been able to find many people using PETG 
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Sorry, long dayā¦didnāt read PETGā¦havenāt printed that yet soz
Actually in the middle of changing heatbreak and nozzle, so will be trying PETG soon
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Hey, I can vouch for eSun PETG and Ultimaker CPE/CPE+
Super resilient and regular prints with these materials, I didnāt use PLA for a long time because of PETG. CPE specially is pretty stiff.
You donāt need an enclosure for petg/CPE, it is WYSIWYG for prints (no warps whatsoever).
For PLA+ I discovered Sunlu and am very happy with it.
Careful with petg and the textured ultrabase, petg seems to grip a lot and is prone to tear the surface! I used only with bare glass and bars metal, not tried yet with ultrabase
Great thread. Have had my X1 for about a year now without issue. A lot of good tips here, going to try a few. Donāt think I read in this thread about anyone talking about linear advance. I enabled linear advance and it made the biggest difference in print quality.
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Linear advance? Never heard of it, what is that and where did you enable it?
Sunlu is really cheap, right? I use ESUN and itās great. I tried some of the 3Dmakerengineering stuff and wasnāt super impressed by the results
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I think basically linear advance is some mathematical formula that figures out how much to reduce the extruder movement as the print nears a corner and has to slow down. If the extruder does not reduce the amount it extrudes then you are left with a blob in the corners. The link below most definitely explains it better. By enabling this, my print are night and day better.
Per the Marlin site:
Linear Advance
Under default conditions, extruder axis movement is treated in the same way as the XYZ linear axes. The extruder motor moves in linear proportion to all the other motors, maintaining exactly the same acceleration profile and start/stop points. But an extruder is not a linear system, so this approach leads, most obviously, to extra material being extruded at the end of each linear movement.
Take the common test-cube as an example. Even with the best tuning the corners are usually not sharp, but bleed out. The top solid infill displays roughness where the print direction changes on perimeters. These problems are minor or even imperceptible at low printing speeds, but they become more noticeable and problematic as print speeds increase.
Tuning the flow can help, but this may lead to under-extrusion when starting new lines. Some slicers include an option to end extrusion early in each move, but this adds more complexity to the G-code and has to be retuned for different temperatures and materials.
Since the root cause is pressure, LIN_ADVANCE de-couples extrusion from the other axes to produce the correct pressure inside the nozzle, adapting to the printing speed. Once Linear Advance is properly tuned, bleeding edges and rough solid infill should be nearly eliminated.
Advantages
- Better dimensional precision due to reduced bleeding edges.
- Higher printing speeds are possible without any loss of print quality - as long as your extruder can handle the needed speed changes.
- Visible and tangible print quality is increased even at lower printing speeds.
- No need for high acceleration and jerk values to get sharp edges.
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