Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Soldering on phase wires is extremely difficult. They have a high-temperature and chemical and abriasion resistant epoxy coating on them.

I’d much rather trust my safety to a new motor than try to hack together a repair on a such a serious problem. But that’s just my two cents.

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Thank you, I figured as much. I wonder if conductive epoxy would bond to their coating better than solder?

Don’t. It will not.

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No.

“conductive” epoxy is really a misnomer. It should be called resistive epoxy. As in, it’s not an insulator, but not a conductor either. It isn’t good for anything involving more than maybe a dozen milliamps.

If you want to fix that motor you will have to actually replace the windings with fresh wire. All three of them, preferably, since it’ll be hard to match the originals exactly.

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Bummer. Maybe I’ll try to rewind them some day. For now, I’ll buy an eBay replacement and inspect it for and replace the missing pin–BEFORE I ride it. Well, lesson learned. I will never use another motor without first opening and inspecting it.

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If you try to buy the cheapest motor, you will again suffer problems.

Will they be the same problems? Hard to say.

Cheap, Fast, Good. Pick any two :wink:

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Just to clarify, the “Cheap + Good” option means making your own motors and winding them yourself.

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Well said. I can’t complain much considering the budget route that I have taken. I’m just not yet ready to buy a pair of better replacements. Hopefully the replacement + “fix” will get me riding again and give me a spare motor to practice rewinding before I rewind the other.

I like cheap and am fine with the DIY labor that accompanies it. My mistake was ignoring Murphy’s Law in this budget pursuit–a lesson I have learned from this experience.

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Buy nice or buy twice

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The tinted-aqua-beige one?

I will never not like this quote. It is the truest statement in esk8 and life.

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How you know my plans

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My belt is pretty loud and sounds like it has some slipping friction going on…
But the belt itself is pretty tight…
It appears that my wheel pulley wobbles, how can I solve this?:sweat_smile::sweat_smile::sweat_smile::thinking:

This looks okay to me for the tightness of the belt… But when throttling the belt jumps up and down and behaves like a ball you sat on for too long that starts rolling like an egg

I should perhaps mention, that my belt is diagonal somehow

I need to move the motor mount towards the middle right?

Loosen the wheel pulley bolts until the pulley can move around a bit, make sure it’s centered, tighten them back down. I imagine if you spin the wheel to different positions, the belt gets looser/tighter?

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Yes, each half turn is tighter/less right… Just a little bit, but I guess if you have a belt moving that fast, it’s important nothing wobbles / has play.
I’ll try to center it ^^
Any way better than just going with my feeling and eyes?

Yep. Just lots of adjustments until you can get it close to perfect. Get your belt line straightened out too either by moving the mount in or putting some more speed washers on the inside of the wheel.

Align the mounts first, then center the pulley. If the belt doesn’t slip it’s perfect after

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How much power is there left in a battery after it is at the “discharged” voltage? Can i slowly limp it back home knowing the fact that i damage the cells?

I am not qualified to answer but would think these guys would need more info. Such as what battery size and what voltage are you talking about? Seems like it would be hard to make a generalized statement here.

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@b264 could you help me out diagnosing?

What am I doing wrong :sweat_smile: it doesn’t sound healthy to me :sweat_smile: ive spent 4 hours now on this… Ignore the beginning stuttering :slight_smile:

The noise is coming from the belt, right?
But I can’t tell what the issue is :confused:

Are you running sensored?

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