Yah I still wouldnât put anything too private on there CC details etc. until the cert issue is resolved just to be extra sure but it is just complaining about the cert expiring which isnât too uncommon, newer SSL certs are typically made to only last for a few months just in case things are compromised up the chain of certificate authorities basically. Your data should still be encrypted I believe even if the date on the cert is invalid but Iâm not 100% sure on this (you can check to see whatâs going on packet by packet with something like wireshark and filter down to interesting traffic to see if something is or isnât encrypted but beyond the scope of this forum 
)
Havenât tried but no reason it shouldnât work so long as itâs giving the standard 5V out that an older USB would. The new standard allows devices to ârequest higher powerâ to get I think 9V or 25V as output options for say powering a laptop or something else that needs higher voltage, but default should be for it to assume 5V until it gets special indication otherwise (think correct signal on a particular line to ID it as âhigh power deviceâ)
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Yeah, the power source tries to negociate before sending anything but 5W to the wire.
Iâm not worrying about this, itâs just that i have to keep 1 unicorn micro-usb cable/adaptor for oddballs like an old powerbank, old bluetooth headphones, or (new!) remote now.
I have no idea if the wiring is similar now, or how to fit the usb-c adapter in the supposedly up to the edge pcb for micro-usb. I was hoping to see other people doing it first.
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Well I canât help with physically fitting it in there, but in terms of wiring, type-C connections have backwards-compatibility with USB 2.0 and 1.0 in terms of the original four-wire (power, ground, data +, data -) scheme, theyâre just arranged differently. Hereâs a good video that outlines all the nitty-gritty details of converting a legacy usb device to type C.
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Kind of a silly question, but is there any harm in charging a board while itâs loopkey is in? 
Not into being a test dummy so I wonât try it on my own board 
Iâve charged my board while itâs on so donât see why it would be a problem.
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Need help diagnosing this stuttering behavior shown in this video:
I started with single drive and that side is working fine. I just added a second motor and that is where the stuttering at low speed happens. Before installing the second motor I noticed it had a little more resistance when spinning it in hand. 3kmh and faster runs fine. I soldered MR30 on the sensor cables, will open this up and check the connections:
However when redoing the guided Unity set up it reads the sensors fine as far as I can tell:
Any ideas?
Specs
10S4P 40T, charge only BMS, Unity 23:46, Flipsky VX1 PPM on highest setting, maytech sealed sensored 6374 170kv, 62T 15T, idler mounts with pretty close kinda loose belt tension on both sides.
Has anyone figured out how to add an antenna to the benchwheel reciver? It wont get a signal when it is inside the enclosure so I currently have it taped on top.
might be most noob question but are you able to program a vesc then disconnect the motor wires afterwards then reconnect them and not have to reprogram
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As long as you save the configuration, why not. Only thing that can change is phase wires. It takes 2 minutes with a bluetooth module anyway
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No; I do it all the time
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Good to know, thanks 
Those values look normal. Swap your motor cables and sensors side to side on the unity and see if the issue follows the motor or stays on the same side.
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Hey Im not sure how to unfuck my shit someone pls help, I made a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6569_4rMXCU
@mikEEE I have two suggestions first:
- use
Control Mode: Current Hyst Reverse With Brake - charge the battery at least halfway (3.7V per cell)
then proceed troubleshooting
use Control Mode: Current Hyst Reverse With Brake ? ? ive plugged itr in now ty
Yeah it looks like youâre using the Current Smart Reverse mode which I donât like but itâs causing that weird reversing when you hold the brake. Some people like that, but I think mostly folks with foot bindings and e-mountainboards
a gentleman and a scholar u are kind sir
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What battery do you have? Because your batt max is on the low side.
Yah agree with others no harm really, the idle draw of the vesc is pretty low so as long as your dead band is good (it goes idle properly when you turn off or stop using remote) then not much power being pulled so just like itâs off almost. If you have LEDs or other stuff powered from the batt probably worth disconnecting and charging with other things powered off just so the charge circuitry doesnât get âconfusedâ about the charge state.