On that point
Not sure what that would do. I soldered silicone wires to the phases so I could have the stress off into the inside of my case. Youâd probably have to tie a string or something to the phase wire to pull it through without disconnecting the bullets. Or put locking connectorsâŚ
I was more worried about the flex of the tubing eventually disconnecting a bullet. I have only re soldered phases once because it was such a massive pain in the arse. Sanding off the coating on all the strands.
Iâd imagine only irl testing could answer that. Since its @Zach idea, I vote for him to try it XD
Yes, me too 
How did you prevent the sheathing from unwinding? My sheathing always frays and unwinds. Did you burn the ends together?
I burn the ends to keep them from unraveling while working with it, and then use a zip tie right at the end to keep it all tidy.
Waterproof heat shrink is what I had in mind (maybe healthy doses of liquid electrical tape
Would there be more flex than there would be with the wires just exposed? I would think there would be less was given the added rigidity of the pipes
If they are rigid then fine. The ones I used were very flexible so wanted to be straight like a spring. That spring effect was something I worried about when connecting to the motors without a gland. If you can actually shape the tubing you are using then there wonât be a problem
What all these guys said. I used a lighter on the edges to stop fray and then used some massive heavy duty heat shrink.
I have a Metr Pro Module coming my way and 2 kinds of battery. 1x 10s4p 30Q pack and 12s2p Lipo.
Lets assume i take both with me and ride the LIPO until it reached its threshold. Now i want to use the 10s4p pack. Should i reprogram the VESC to 10s FIRST while 12s is connected and then swap the battery or swap the battery to 10s4p and then reconfigure the VESC?
The only difference would be the low-voltage cutoff. All other settings could be the same. It shouldnât matter which order you do it. The cutoff only cuts throttle power. It doesnât power-down the microcontroller or disable braking or disable mode changing.
But doesnât 10s to 12s make a difference in âpowerâ (speed, torque?) or is it independent of what the VESC has for settings?
It will certainly feel different, yes
so the jump from 10s to 12s is nothing i have to change in the VESC settings except the low voltage-cutoff?
Yah using current control if you reduce voltage youâd feel a difference for sure 20% or so loss in power I guess if using watt control it shouldnât be as noticeable a change but think thatâs only an option with ackmaniacs fork of the firmware. Alternative yah can have other modes configured in metr and just switch it before or after swapping batteries (along with low voltage cut off change)
Only other things Iâd adjust are battery max and min (amperage) or go with the more conservative value between the two batteries for both.
Is my ppm bad. My board keeps glitching and accelerates on its own. I have a maytec remote and a vesc 6. Is it coming loose and then accelerating or could the ppm have a short? Should i use a different remote on the vesc 6+
Really hard to guess. Would check real-time in the ppm display and just try to jostle the board around on the bench while watching the signal⌠Personally just soldered and heatshrinked the signal, gnd, and power for my receiver to the VESC to eliminate the possibility. Most of my remote issues stemmed from potentiometers going bad and brownouts on the Arduino/nrf receiver drawing power from the VESC (capacitor on GND/5v for receiver seems to help in this case).
Sorry for bad autocorrects
