Iām pretty sure it should be double digitā¦around 15 to 20
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A normal range Iāve seen is 15mĪ© to 35mĪ©
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If you have scrap copper wire, you can twist together a bunch of fine strands loosely and make your own wick.
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Sooā¦ i have been lurking around here and the old forum for a while, decided on some parts, one of which is the maker-x dual esc, but iāve seen people complain about the lack of filter capacitors on the main lead.
This sounds easy, just solder some, but which? What capacity is recommended for this purpose? How big is too big? Iām trying to avoid any shutdowns
Anyone know how much of that tire slime stuff I should put in a 155mm wheel? @rich @Venom121212 @Andy87
Itās not just capacitance you want. You want low-ESR capacitors, connected as close to the vescās input as possible with the shortest wires possible to minimize inductance. Iād say an extra 1000-2000 uf of good quality electrolytics is a solid start.
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When you have a bottle for 2 bicycle tubes you can divide it through 8 for 1 tube of your wheel. I also used only 1/16 of a bottle per 8" tube without flats. If your tire is thin I would use 1/8 otherwise you can divide it up to 16.
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how is this remote working out for you, any dropped connections?
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So only use 1/8 of the tube of slime?
Iām coming from hub motors and didnāt know if I should go 170kv for extra torque for the hills so you would suggest 190kv its 12s p42a also
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Yes 1/8 of the bottle (if itās for 2 bicycle tubes) for 1 of your tubes if you want to be safe or less if you have thicker tires. Or in other words, use 1/4 (to 1/8) of the amount meant for 1 bicycle tube 
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@drone001 Only used it once. No issues with it i just donāt like the dual trigger. Putting it into a build for somebody else.
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Trying to understand parameters for motor specifications and how to use them.
Letās take Torqueboards 6374 190V motors as an example. For that motor, Torqueboards website states the following:
Max Power = 3150 Watts
Max Current = 80 Amps
Max Volts = 12s
Are the following true:
Scenario 1 = 12s LiPo
Current to motor should be limited to 3150 Watts / (3.7V * 12 series) = 70.94 Amps.
I should not run 80 Amps to motor because 80 Amp * 3.7V * 12 series = 3552 Watts.
Scenario 2 (8S Li-Ion)
I would need 3150 Watts / (3.6V * 8 series) = 109.375 Amp to make 3150 Watts of power, but I should not because the motor is rated at 80 Amps.
A couple guidelines:
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Since motors are just dumb hunks of copper, steel and magnets, they generally tolerate being overdriven for short periods very well. As long as you donāt get them hot enough to destroy the insulation of the wires or reach the demagnetization temperature of the magnets, you can overdrive an outrunner motor by several hundred percent for a few seconds with no ill effects.
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Since our motors run at widely varying power levels and loads, and rarely at full power for any significant length of time, those ratings are more guidelines than anything. Itās not gonna grenade if you push a hundred extra watts though it for the seven seconds it takes you to reach full speed.
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Current is what makes most of the heat in a motor, so the current rating is the one Iād be most stringent about - Thatās the reason we go with 10s or 12s over 6s or 8s, because higher voltages allow more power for a given current.
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Thank you.
Will going a bit overkill with this hurt the setup in any way, aside from taking up space?
I found listings on ebay for 2200uF@63v in sets of 2. Iām tempted to buy 2 pairs, put them in parallel and call it a day.
The only thing you might kill by going overboard with capacitance is your loop key/antispark.
That said, I sure as hell wouldnāt trust any capacitors I bought off eBay. Get them from a reputable supplier with proper documentation and datasheets, like Mouser or Digikey.
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so the litre i ordered is a lifetime supply 
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Finally! that took soo long. Sorry bout that.
enjoy!
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Yeah thanks a lot for it
Going on my new build once I receive the parts
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I may have written it wrong. I would go 170kv for sure with those parameters.
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