definetly, you get more leverage over your trucks if the deck is wider, concave additionally has the same effect
so basicly it allows you to more easily do sharper turns because your lean force is translated into turning better
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Something on my board clicks too, note sure if its the idler or the bearing for my hub…It also only clicks when turning the wheel backwards, forwards is not a problem.
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Wide decks offer a bit more stability, mostly it lets you cram a ton of battery cells in a wider enclosure which increases weight and weight distribution. This makes a deck more stable.
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Ooh i know what you mean haha. Width. The opposite of length. Yes is does affect it. Talking from my experience on regular longbords, for me, wider decks provide better carving capabilities while the narrower decks are more stable at high speeds.
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So a quick introduction,
I have been riding and building esk8’s for a few years. But I wanted to build something different this time. So I looked around I thought why not build a ebike. Me being from the Netherlands that fits in perfectly with the stereotype 
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Untill now I have been running a esc supplied by the manufacturer which I bought the kit from. But here in the Netherlands the speed limit for e bikes is 25kph and the maximum motor wattage is 250W. I find that boring, so I opted for a bigger motor which I would use with a bigger vesc. With the reason that I can add things easier, and I am already familiar with the VESC firmware. Also a reason I wanted to use the vesc ecosystem is because you can easily limit speeds and wattage so if the police wants to test my ebike I can just cap it at 25 kph and 250W.
The current issue I am having is getting the wiring for everything right. I know the wiring for the batteries, hall senors, sensor wires but when I want to wire up my throttle (adc) and Metr Pro I run into issues. I dont have a very thorough understanding of how the metr pro works. What I do know is which ports it needs to be connected to and what those ports do. The thing I don’t know is how you are supposed to connect the metr pro (uart) and a ebike throttle (ADC). I tried to make a little paint drawing with I think needs to be done. Hope you could check if its correct. But I am not quite sure.
My thought process is the following: The metr reads the vesc and has the ability to write things to the VESC that’s why it needs the extra connections to the wires for ADC1 and 5V compared to a HM10 module. Since the e bike throttle also needs the ADC1 I need to connect these 2 wires in parallel. Like shown in the drawing. As for setting in the VESC I need to select UART and ADC. Then it should be good to go. Please correct me on this if I am wrong 
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Thought I would also ask my question here.
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Has anybody with matrix 2 trucks seen that the trucks rubs down where the washer meets the baseplate?
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My black coating is a bit scratched like that. Doesn’t look like it’s going into the metal on mine or yours though.
And thats a fairly new baseplate mind you.
currently putting an almost 2mm thick washer between baseplate and hanger because there’s so much movement without.
gonna upload a video showing the movement
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And another new sound from my new belt. 
Sounds like something is moving, and I don’t mean the belt. Double-triple-check your pulleys, motor and mount for snugness?
Am I dumb or is getting a bearing into a Berg hub not an easy task. Usually have no issues getting bearings into wheels but can’t seem to get these bearings seated in…
Any tips tricks without jacking up the bearing too bad. Arbor press? Lol.
https://www.trampaboards.com/beast-box-options-for-carveboards-6--12amp--p-27193.html you guys think I can fit this box on back of my trampa and have bindings in place ?
The standard one
Measuring tools (calipers at a minimum, but a micrometer and a snap gauge is better) to check the actual fit between the bearing’s OD and the bore’s ID are really helpful - Trying to press a bearing into a too-tight hole can and will damage either the bearing or the hole.
Once you’re sure the fit is OK, then an appropriate press tool is required. Can be as simple as a chunk of wood and a mallet, or an arbor press, or a bench vise, or a hydraulic press. The really important part is to
- A: Make sure the bearing is not cockeyed with respect to the bore. It’s gotta be perfect - half a degree can screw things up.
- B: Only press on the outer race. Not the inner race, not the balls, not the cage.
The tightest fit you should have between a standard 608 bearing and a housing is maybe 0.0015" tight. Any more than that and you will be crushing the outer race against the balls.
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Ideally you want to use a bearing press.
But cheapest way is if you get a wooden dowel the same diameter as the bearing, put a hole in the center of it the same or bigger than the diameter of the inner race (so you only touch the outer race), and slowly tap it in
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A socket works quite well instead of all the work for the dowel.
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I was thinking that actually. The right sized socket could do the trick.
@MysticalDork and @BluPenguin appreciate the in depth explanations.
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Oh yeah. I forgot about that one. Find a socket that hits the lip of the bearing and works great
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3 of my hubs were crazy tight, one was loose enough for the bearing to fall right out
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I think 3/4 socket should do the trick actually. I have that laying around give it a try.
Just measure first. I have had bearings literally explode or crack in half when you try to install them in a hole that’s too tight.
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