Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

Sorry to keep asking. But do you know which would provide more power? 2 flipsky 5065 or 1 sk3 6374?

Probably could get more power from the two 5065, but I would use Racerstar 5065 and run them unsensored.

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Look buddy, Im currently like 15,000 in debt and it’s only my second semester. I’m barley making due with what I have :joy::joy::joy:

PS: I’m joking, not really mad

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What’s the advantage of unsensored?

Sure, but the motors I suggested were about the same price. You’ll save a lot more by going single drive with a 6374 or a 6380, because you only need one ESC.

In my experience, the sensors are almost always the first thing that breaks. If you’re not using them … then your board just keeps running. Also, it’s much easier and cleaner to run only 3 wires and use an MR60 connector. You can epoxy that into the enclosure for a nice watertight connection. Not so much if you also have 5 or 6 sensor wires per motor.

Why haven’t you programmed a chat bot that parses your response history yet?

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Ohhh I see, what I meant was that i currently have those three motors and everything. I was wondering what I should put on for the time being until I can afford nicer motors

Surprise, I am a chatbot. Nobody would know, because there are no other esk8ers here anyway :rofl:

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So that’s why you’re so afraid of water

Did I pass the turing test?

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As long as it’s not raining

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Seems to work better. No big deal. Someone could ride your board goofy anyway. They do work both ways. I’d do heelside if given the choice.

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  1. what problems might i encounter when riding (or more generally) if i have a caliber II truck on the front and a Bourdnamics 220mm hanger in a Caliber II baseplate on the rear? (front and rear will have the same cal II 50 degree baseplate)

  2. also a bit confused as to why Bourdnamics 220mm hanger can accomodate up to 2 x 6380 motors, whereas the Caliber II which is 10 inchs / 254mm (34mm wider than the BD’s) is too narrow for dual 6374’s or above?

Nope, connection seems to be ruled out because the bar is steady when I paired it with another VX1 remote that I have…

Maybe something in the remote itself but I do not know what is causing this…

I want to 3d print sleeves that go completely over my motor (to prevent debris and water from getting in)

I’m concerned about the slots that are in the motors, would this mess up cooling?

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I printed myself sleeves a year ago, thats still the first set, no cuts or anything broken. Printed with flexible TPU in the mode ā€œSpiralise outer contourā€ (Vase mode) The motors definitely see an increase in temps but thats by all means not a huge margin.

Color is black because i only had white at that time.
I usually put them on if i know it gets dirty,muddy,wet or rocky. They just slide on and off.

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What tolerance did you use? I’m thinking just making the diameter 51mm for my 50mm motor so it slides on easily

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the torqueboard motors (6374) have a outer diameter of roughly 63.80mm The file i have from the sleeve is 64.14mm with a line width of 0.4mm, so technically 16mm per side (but somehow that sounds a bit much).

Can’t say 100% because i used different slicer settings back then.

I printed several prototypes to get the best fit.

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Just wired up a new board and the charger is only charging @ 300mA. I’m trying to figure out if it’s me or the hardware… I have a smart bms wired charge-only to a 12S 10AH battery, and I’m charging with a 12S 8A lipo charger (links below). I haven’t used this charger before, and I don’t have a power supply handy. The BMS app doesn’t appear to have any settings concerning charge rate… Could I be missing something obvious?

BMS:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32819508078.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dMmR0ir
Charger:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824519129.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d6EMf4A