guys, is it ok if one of the âbattery to vescâ wires is 8 inches longer than the other vesc in a dual setup? i have played all the tetris i can and its the only solution.
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Not a problem at all.
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I generally agree with what others are saying here if you have the midpoint set correct and the receiver sends idle/midpoint when it has no signal from transmitter then you should get no braking. If the receiver comes disconnected from the VESC there is a timeout to handle that which includes optional braking but for transmitter disconnect from receiver the VESC is none-the-wiser it just continues getting PWM signal from receiver
Things to check are PWM realtime data when throttle is idle but TX is on vs TX off and maybe adjust deadband to compensate for difference.
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I think that timeout is more for âyour receiver wire rattled looseâ and not âyour remote lost connectionâ
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For custom batteries, what gauge wire do you use for balance wires and terminal wires?
Depends on the amps it can output, but 22 for balance
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Iâll be running 4P 30Qs. I think for power output, Iâm aiming for around 60amps (15A per cell). 22 for balance leads? Iâm anticipating charging between 4-8A.
Bigger is always better but you should be safe withâŚ
12 awg for the main pack leads
16 awg for the charge leads
22 awg for the balance leads
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Iâm a bit confused by the vesc tool documentation.
The Motor Current Max Brake setting in the vesc tool documentation says itâs the max power to use when braking, and the energy goes back to the battery. However, you set the Battery Current Max Regen separately. If you set the Motor Current Max Brake to a higher value than the Battery Current Max Regen, does it then start using power from the battery to slow down the motors instead of using the induced current to recharge?
If this is the case, I plan to set my Battery Current Max Regen to -8.5A since my batteries max charge rate is -9A, and a Motor Current Max Brake to about -15 A since I want the extra braking power in the case of a needing a short stop.
I donât think so, maybe the caps but everything would be damaged from fire if it was hot enough to punch a hole through the PCB
Edit: crush it up to use as frit
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Lol. I did take off the wires as I wanted my bullet connectors back but i was making sure that other than that and the heatsinks, nothing was useful and unfindable
I think the drv and some other stuff could be still good. If you donât need it, sent it to @seaborder 
he can sure find something to use for future repair.
Look at this chart and notice that 22AWG is 7A continuous, so I would make them 20AWG if you want to charge it 8A.
But for most, 22AWG balance wires (or even 24AWG in a pinch) will work. Most of the time your balance wires arenât going to carry the full charge current anyway. Depending on how you wire stuff, either two of them, one of them, or none of them will carry the full 8A charge current. Typically itâs none of them.
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Edit: Better answer down below 
So I actually had the same question a few posts up.
Short answer is the extra braking power is just dissipated as heat in the vesc.
The better way to look at this is during breaking, the motor is a generator. It will generate X amount of amps. The Motor Current Max Brake refers to the amount of current the vesc is willing to accept out of the X amount of amps, effectively stopping the motor with Motor Current Max Brake amount of amps. Itâs not drawing any extra current from the battery. Out of Motor Current Max Brake amount of amps, Battery Current Max Regen amount of amps will be drawn and fed to the vesc.
@annihil8ted no, the vesc doesnât dissipate braking power as heat. It would explode in seconds if it tried to do that.
@Slade
Current=/=power. The voltage output of the motor is usually less than the voltage of the battery, so if (using round numbers as an example) your motor max. braking current is 20A and your battery max. regen is 10A, then the output voltage of the motor can be up to half the battery voltage before the vesc has to start limiting the motor current.
This is why you have worse brakes at high speed than at medium/low speed - The braking power is limited by the maximum wattage you can feed into the battery (batt.voltage times regen current), but the motor voltage increases with speed so the current decreases. (braking torque is proportional to current.)
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???Which is the best Brushless motor out there to reach speeds up to 25mp/h???
Hey guys, I am searching for the most reliable, cheapest, best quality build, coolest looking motor brushless motor out there.
My choice would be racerstar 140kv 5065. Change my mind!!
Psychotillerâs powerplant ensures 6369s have been rock solid for me and have never gotten too hot to touch. I jump at the dirt track with them and have never damaged them. Frantically searching for wood to knock onâŚ
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most reliable, check
best quality, check
coolest looking, check
brushless, check
cheapest, WTF
There is a triad of options: cheap, fast, good. You get to choose any two of them. Unless you want to design, manufacture and wind your own motor by hand yourself, you canât choose cheap AND good.
If you want cheap, get a single KEDA 6365 190Kv
If you want slightly less cheap, get a pair of Racerstar 5065
If you want good, get a pair of @Psychotiller (Maytech) 6369 200Kv
If you want coolest-looking, thatâs @longhairedboyâs specialty; snatch a couple of his 6355s and mount them on a short hanger. (Also get a deck from @Sender Skates.)
There is nothing wrong with a pair of Racerstar 5065 though, those will work just fine. I use them myself on some boards. They are small and light and portable. Just choose 140Kv or 200Kv based on what you need. If youâre going to run sensored and/or with big wheels, the 140Kv are good. If youâre going to run unsensored and/or regular-sized wheels then the 200Kv are good. Use the calculator at the top to target a 30mph -ish (50km/h) top-speed and get the Kv you need based on your battery voltage, your pulley ratios, and your wheel size.
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