Let’s forget I mentioned lights at all, I’m just over-thinking myself into stupidity
The load resistance is what controls amp draw. There is no amp flow until something is connected to the buck converter out. Go back to the basics, they’re always true.
Leds are driven by their own special circuit but in the case of a simple lightbulb, it would obvioisly just increse amps along with volts until it explodes.
Sounds like I need to research into the cc/cv relationship to understand that side more, it’s been a minute.
Do they make adjustable current converters as well? I’m sure they do. What do they call those?
The very fundamental is completely correct, ohm’s law, given a resistance (light bulb), and a constant voltage, you can calculate exactly how many amps will flow through the resistance.
But that’s where it stops being simple, with the example of LEDs, the resistance varies with heat and voltage, following Shockley’s diode equation. becoming exceedingly hard to pinpoint an exact voltage that will not cause long term damage to the diode.
A lot of adjustable converters will do CC-CV (constant current - constant voltage), they are the ones that you see with 2 pot adjustments instead of one. A current and a voltage is set. If current is exceeded, voltage is dropped until current max is satisfied. CC/CV buck (down) and CC/CV boost (up) both exist.
Ahh thank you very much. I’m trying to drive some fiberoptic lights that are DC 12v 6W meant to be ran off a car cigarette lighter port. Guess I need to open it up and see what the driving light is actually made of.
I’m gonna guess those have their own driver, anything car related needs to operate at voltages of 10.5-15v minimum. Usually exceeding up to 10-24V input.
Depends on your definition of “small”, and what your budget is, I’d say. I know of several converters that will handle well in excess of 60v, but the output current is significantly different between the different models.
This ridiculous thing, for example, far exceeds all your requirements (except maybe minimum input voltage), but it costs $400+.
What do you need 180 watts of 12v power for?
I assume 60v is your maximum input voltage. What’s your minimum?
Has anyone tried to improve the Evolve GTR all terrain, e.g. better battery, VESCs, axles, motors etc? For example, whenever I go offroad the motors over heat after ~ 3-5 minutes (and change automatically from GTR to PRO mode). Ideally, the improvements should not add any additional weight.
I realized my D6 Pro Dual has been in LiPo mode all this time and not LiIon. What I noticed though is it will charge up to 4.2 volts per cell in LiPo mode and only 4.1 in LiIon. I can increase it manually up to 4.15 as this balance charger lets me have some control over where I want to stop charging at; but I find it strange LiIon mode is limited to stop at 4.1 volts. I think I should go back to LiPo mode.
Yup think there is a thread about wheel balancing but long story short do it. Little weights are cheap and just stick them in typically opposite the filling plug to balance it out. Can spin them freewheeling on the trucks if they stop and rotate back after spinning they are imbalanced, you can get a feel for where to add weights just tapping the wheel a bit and seeing where it rotates back.
At some point in there you might as well go DIY. The GTR is not a bad build, but once you reach it’s limits, there’s not much you can do. 10s4p 35E battery, proprietary ESC, 5065 150kv motors. To start, you would need bigger motors, which means you would need to upgrade the ESC, which means you need to replace the battery. No single component is bad on it, it was just a board designed for the average rider.
The limitation of “no additional weight” is probably going to inhibit any upgrades however. Anything you put on with more performance is going to be bigger and heavier. Bigger battery, bigger motors.
I am of no help, but I have some questions so I can more clearly understand the situation. I apologise if this would have been answered by just watching all the unlisted videos in your channel, but I have not yet figured out to do that.
If you take off all four tires, and spin up your wheels on the bench, your board and trucks are stable indicating that the hubs/innertube assemblies are well balanced?
If so, would you be able to add each tire back one at a time to see which tire is so unbalanced?
I’m just curious if it is a specific tire that is so out of balance, or an issue that affects all the tires in your batch
I feel like every tire is wobbly. One more than the other. Some up and down, some left and right. It is definitely better compared to the bad batch i had.
Like i said, the weight distribution is taken care of, the tire and- or tubes are the problem. The Lip/Bead sits higher on some parts creating the wobble. No matter how much i adjust it ( i atleast can’t figure it out)
Yah I’m also pretty good about not fully discharging. Just was so used to common knowledge of 4.2 volts being the top end of lipo and liion. Of course it’s better for cycle life if you don’t charge and discharge fully.
Currently on my first build ;-). However, I think the deck of the Evolve GTR is pretty good, in particular since it has uniform body and therefore there is no need to mount an enclosure on the bottom - only very few decks have it, e.g. neoOne (https://rideneo.co/). I am currently struggling with this with my first build; I find aligning the enclosure with the threaded inserts pretty tricky, and the holes keep getting bigger and bigger. Moreover, sealing the whole thing to make it water resistant is also not easy, although I found some nice solutions to that, I think.
Thus, when you already have the Evolve GTR just using the deck, but adding a gear drive, VESC, better battery etc. seems not entirely far fetched to me. However, I understand that only very few people would go down that route since those that bought it may be already happy with the package and may thus refrain from tickering with it or consider it as too much of an effort with too little gain?
