It depends when you bought yours. My motor from early 2019 has the cable but not the right sensor(?)
I think Dexter updated the motors but iām not sure what version you have.
Edit:
From July 2019
Yeah so I got the same batch as you then, I got mine early 2019 as well
1 Like
You could always acquire the appropriate thermistors, disassemble the motors, and replace them. Fairly straightforward.
1 Like
Maybe if I ever have a problem with something else in the motor I will, the way I see it, if it aināt broke donāt fix it
Also my motor temp never gets above warm to the touch so I donāt really think itās too necessary right now
1 Like
Fair enough. Yeah the larger 63xx motors tend to run pretty cool unless youāre really thrashing them hard, E.G. uphill at high speed.
Do keep in mind, though, that the spinning outer can (the part you can touch) isnāt where the heat is generated, and there is no direct thermal path from the stator to the can. Hence itās possible for the stator to be far hotter than the can. A hundred-degree-fahrenheit differential isnāt too difficult to achieve if, for example, you were riding hard in cold weather. Hell, a hundred-degree-celsius differential isnāt entirely implausible either, although it would take even more extreme conditions.
6 Likes
5.5mm bullet connectors are more difficult to cable tie together so they donāt vibrate apart but they are easier to waterproof however more difficult to service later
MR60 for the win
Unless youāre running over 120A motor max then briefly consider 5.5mm bullet connectors while using MR60 anyway because theyāre dope af
4 Likes
Thatās very interesting, I didnāt know that. Thank you for the info!
1 Like
Youāre welcome!
The motors we use are essentially inside-out compared to what youāll find in appliances, power tools and industrial equipment. The advantage is that we get increased mechanical advantage, in the form of a lower KV: More torque and a lower RPM, means less gearing-down is needed to get reasonable wheel speeds.
1 Like
hi, they are sensored and they have been detected in the Focbox Tool. No option for hybrid?
Ah sorry canāt really help with focbox tool since Iāve never used or seen that one really, but should be some option for if using the sensors or not, even if they are detected there is typically an option to ignore them or in hybrid mode in vesc tool it uses sensors at low speed and back EMF at higher speed to measure rotation of the can and work out position over time.
Hybrid is the only option in focbox tool afaik.
Forget exactly where you can set the transition erpm thoā¦
Are there any 5065 sealed sensored motors with temp sensor kv rated 130-160 other than maytech?
Damn, My motors are vibrating so much that my board moves.
1 Like
Has to be the least efficient way to turn rotational energy into linear motion, reminds me of that (American) football game with the shaker board/field.
Guesses for things that could cause that, imbalance on the motor can or shaft (is one side is shaved down and or the pulley isnāt 100% concentric and balanced that will cause vibrations). Canāt say Iāve done that kind of test with no wheels but with pneumatics that are imbalanced you end up with a far more severe wobble (shaking the trucks around like you are turning left to right super fast).
Thatās because every bit of metal of the car is connected to the negative side. if you do positive first your wrench can short from positive to car. if you do negative first, you avoid that problem.
5 Likes
thanks for deāmystifying this for me 
2 Likes
like this?
also this may cause the vibration
Can was clean inside, no scraping marks.
2 Likes
The user manual for for a tenergy TB6B had the following chart in it:
Iām confused about the Li-IO max charge cutoff of 4.1v/cell. I thought Lithium Ion batteries were charged to 4.2v cell. and further that some BMS donāt start balancing until above 4.1v/cell.
what am I missing?
Iāve gotten used to this bookmarking, and itās actually an excellent workaround. Thanks a lot.
1 Like
Also LiFePO4 charge cutoff should be 3.65V not 3.60V
1 Like