Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

Looking to find some standard skate bearings with 12 inner diameter, so I believe. It would be 12mm x 22mm anyone know where I can find these? In US

Iā€™ve used 12mm x 21mm with nickel strip shims, will not recommend

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Yeah that sounds a bit crazy lol

What is the JST type of a @Trampa VESC 6MKIII? Anyone have a link to some pre-crimped 3 pin connectors that would fit in the PWM port?

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Iā€™ve found out the source of the sound, itā€™s the motor can knocking against the baseā€¦
Iā€™ve added a photo below :+1: but the 2 grub screw holding the shaft is already tighten upā€¦

This might be a stupid idea but do you think it makes sense to pull the can slightly outwards so the gap is bigger so it wonā€™t knock?

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JST PHR 2.0mm pitch. We have such cables. Search for PPM on our website.

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what fuse do I need to buy to replace in a sunko 788h spot welder? @longhairedboy maybe you can point me to the right one

Search for PPM if you want PWM cables.

Makes sense /s

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Just an educated guess, Iā€™d say a 15A slow or medium blow, or a 20A fast blow. Iā€™d have to see the machine specs to give a better answer.

Since that kind of welder is a high current impulse from mains, thereā€™s a pretty good chance to trip your circuit breaker as well, depending on how sensitive it is.

Can-bus cables: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07NY8CQRV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2ZY4SNMU91J2Q&psc=1

Are these ok to safely connect 2 ESCs for a master - slave connection to use one remote receiver to command both the ESCs and the BT dongle to use Vesc tool with android and set up both ESCs? Also, i think i need male connectors on both sides of the cable but please correct me if im wrongā€¦ thanks!

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Those should be fine if you join two of them end-to-end to get connectors for both ESCsā€¦ Just check some wiring diagrams before connecting anything cause screwing up can connections can release the magic smoke from your ESC :stuck_out_tongue:

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Thanks broā€¦ where can i see thse wiring diagrams? btw, i understand these are just 2 cables to connect between CAN H and CAN L from one esc to the otherā€¦so should be pretty simple. Of course, any time i think itā€™s ā€œsimpleā€ i end up blowing somethingā€¦ soā€¦yeah, wiring diagram and any tips for can-bus connection would be super welcome!

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Thatā€™s pretty much it for can busā€¦ I donā€™t have a diagram myself but the diagram thread may have one.
A few tips with can:

  • twist the wires together before connecting to improve signal
  • both vescs MUST be powered on and off at the exact same time. Make sure thereā€™s no chance of powering just one.
  • put a lil bit of hot glue on the connection after you plug in the cables. This will help with vibrations a bit.
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Iā€™d have to dig mine out of the drawer and check

likely the case

I had to run a separate 30Amp line from the breaker box to get it to quit tripping the 20Amp circuit that the outlet it was plugged into was on. That outlet was on a circuit that was also shared with our washing machine, which would reset and start beeping every time i welded something while testing it out. But it was even tripping the 20Amp breaker i had on its own circuit on occasion, so 30 it had to be.

It shared that 30 amp circuit with a solder station and heat gun just fine though.

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Very useful mate, thank you :slight_smile:

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I think certainly worth a shot absolute worst case scenario have to replace the motor(s). If taking the cans off or loosening them up might be worth popping them off depending on how hard/easy they are to remove on those motors just to be sure no magnets came free and there isnā€™t something just stuck in there.

Hi, I just finished my first build, and have a few questions that I was hoping any of you could help with.

The build is:

12s5p battery
Dual streetwing 190kv motors
Focbox unity
Metr pro
TB trucks, mounts etc
97mm TB wheel
16t motor pully
36t wheel pully

The first question is about braking, how can I get a smoother braking curve. Like on the boosted. The brakes now are really strong, and i can bearly touch the wheel on the remote before getting thrown off. I have calibrated the remote, and have -(?)30 on the curve. The motor breaks are at 60, and battery regne is at -12A.

The other question is about the metr pro modes that I can configure on mye phone, do you guys have any inputs on what i should put in there? Im looking for a chill mode and a fast one.

Iā€™ve did a test in flat cement flooring to record the sound, especially when I just go up the ramp and get down the ramp in the video. You can hear the sound I am describing most obviously during this 2 part :+1:

The sound is like a a tinny kind sound like something in an empty can, itā€™s not like a solid thud sound thatā€™s I am expectingā€¦

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Iā€™ve not had a loose magnet so canā€™t say for sure but agree sounds like something is rattling around in there. Would take it down to single drive so can use each motor individually (turn off any CANbus or similar) and then try each motor individually to pin it down then tear that one apart or replace it (depending on how tear it apart goes)

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Opened up my case to get usb access to my unity and was greeted by this sightā€¦
The cap is almost certainly dead, but my question is - is the rest of the unity ok? The pcb in the corner looks a little worse for wear, is there anything in that region that could be damaged?

Also noticing that c56 got caught in the crossfireā€¦ Is there someone here who can fix this or am I now stuck with a very expensive brick?

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