To be clear, I am using mini VESC 4.2 from Flipsky
I will try an older version of ack and see if that makes a difference
Actually, is there a way I can simply bypass the limit?
to be clear i’m talking about the circled parameter which typically isn’t user accessible unless you modify the firmware:
Is this v-ring the wrong way 'round? Is the narrower edge supposed to face the gear drive, or face the wheel?
interesting, so the battery profile (at least on the fogstar site) is incorrect when it comes to its real-world continuous discharge? (it says it’s 30a on the site) do any other of batteries advertise higher performance figures than their reality?
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40t will work at 30a but will overheat rapidly and therefore reduce (damage) the life of it.
25a will handle well.
Fogstar will only state the specs the company (in this case samsung) quote it as.
Not many. from the top of my head i know 30Q can be used easily at 20A though it is quoted at 15A.
30T are better off at 30A instead of 35A.
search mooch [insert battery name] test.
Mooch tests all batteries with the same method and it’s very accurate. Even though he tests primarily for Vapes they are very relevent for our use. Quite a few of his reviews are on facebook but just use google search. 
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danke, will chek him out. learning about batteries has turned into a bit of fetish, so any extra info i can gather on the subject is more than welcome 
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happy to help, just summon us when you have a question 
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well, one more question actually. how long can i keep liion batteries without them having capacity loss? lets say i bought 30 for a build, but didn’t get around to making the build for another year, would these batteries deteriorate in any way?
If the cells are at a storage charge they will be fine. Even if they’re fully charged I don’t think it will hurt much but better to be 3.4V to 3.7V per cell which is usually how they ship
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@Zach 18t. Unless you wanna ride slow. But I have faith in you
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Just ran detection on a motor (FS 190kv 6384) again since I got a new remote and it started SCREAMING during detection way way louder and higher than the other motor but detected fine. When I spin it up it starts squealing like a pig at speeds…will take it apart when soon, is there anything I should look for? It’s slightly lower resistance than the other motor
Is it more preferable to have longer battery leads or longer vesc leads? Going to build a top mounted battery box and I am considering putting the vesc inside the battery box as opposed to being closer to the motors
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Longer phase leads > longer battery leads.
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Thanks! What’s the thought process behind this? Less loss of energy?
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Voltage spikes battery side are more problematic.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?952523-too-long-battery-wires-will-kill-ESC-over-time-precautions-solutions-workarounds
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Makes a lot of sense 
Time to braid my wires!
How do you open motors? I’ve removed the C-clip and it won’t budge
(mounted on a motor mount so I can get something to hold)
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Usually the c-clip,2 washers and thats it. (atleast for the tb motors) Edit : like you said. Just make sure its mounted somewhere and you can pull hard without letting it go.