When I regularly use them for other projects, I can justify having a few extra in some weird sizes. I’d certainly prefer a similarly priced option for the 2 sizes I use most though.
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No reason to think it will have any issues. Thanks for the rundown! Last time I programmed it I had to hunt down the original BLDC tool so it is nice to know there are options that are a little easier to find now.
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I am one of those guys that always wants to try the latest thing. I’ve had to limit myself on a couple of my boards or I’d never have anything to ride. The lesson here is, if your happy with the performance and operation don’t let people talk you into upgrading as it’s always a risk. That, and it pisses me off to have to undo work because something didn’t go as expected 
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I’d just ride it. If you decide you wanna upgrade, let me know and I’ll help you through the process.
Thanks for the offer! I built this board 2 years ago on a 6S battery (GLOBETROTTER on the old forum). Those Zippy lipos crapped out on me 8 months ago and I’m finally getting around to upgrading it. I might throw up a build log soon but I don’t know if it would contribute much - definitely not a particularly exceptional build.
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If its been running for 2 years, there’s gotta be something good about it .
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You think a sandpaper condom looks cool?
You need new cool standards buddy.
I think maybe you meant a hellraiser condom.
Wouldn’t wanna jerk in that or the other thing.
Should fuses and splitters be built into the battery or enclosure? I’m running tight on space so I can’t have connectors at both ends.
I’ve got a stupid question and don’t how to phrase it on google. Is there a direction on bindings? I’ve always made them permanent so no adjustments. But I got a pair of real ones for my carver. They fold weidly when I bind my foot in.
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Different bindings different positions. If you not sure I would just check some advertisement pictures of the product and look how they mounted there 
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It’s for mbs bindings, but might help as well
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Alright. Thing is they’re off of eBay😅 I’m trying to figure out if the larger part goes towards the inside of my foot or towards the outside of my foot
So here is how cool Hoyt St. is. We’ve been emailing, keeping up with my problem. I told them if the Torqueboards remote works I will return theirs to see if they can repair it for me and send it back. They instead offered to send me a new one today. They are definitely going to be on Santa’s Nice List this year.
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I have a pair of FSESC6.6 and TB4.12 on two separate boards.
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I can’t explain it then. I had hoped you were running Trampa VESCs and it would be isolated to a hardware difference, but if that’s not the case I’m at a loss.
Still, I’d rather calculate my values bases on the motors battery & gear ratio than a wizard. It’s just gonna be tough in people that WANT to use the wizard.
Let me do a detection (FSESC6.6 and 6374) and post results here. I’ll see if something unusual comes up. We can go from there.
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Easiest way Ive found is manually hold the mounting points in place in the board and pick which one looks like it fits your feet better.
Discovered after installing new f5 bindings backwards and being very confused how I was going to ride.
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I have found that the only way to avoid a spark from the charge port is to plug into the board and then plug into the wall. It even sparks if the wall socket is plugged in but turned off.
Have no clue why it turned on the unity though. Thats strange. I just avoid any kind of sparks full stop though. Eventually all those sparks will destroy the port.
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XT90s charge port?
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