Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

I did it that way every time. I will try again.

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Basically the same values and the same result.

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Something here needs the application of the BFHammer.

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I donā€™t know brother, thatā€™s really strange. Your PPM start and end are way off. At this point I would reliable the firmware, defaulting there VESCs and start over. Your pulselength values should be approx as followsā€¦

Pulselength Start 1.000 ms
Pulselength End 2.000 ms
Pulselength Center 1.500 ms

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Customers want potentiometers all the time so they can ā€œknow what is going onā€ during the deployment. I tell them ā€œNo other part we use fails as often as a potentiometer so if a potentiometer gives a signal that something is wrong and I donā€™t see any other evidence that something is wrong the deployment will not be stopped. But I will gladly sell you all the expensive space qualified potentiometers you want.ā€

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And you are saying I donā€™t know that? All I was saying is that the battery max and min are determined by the type and capacity of the battery and not by motor detection. Why would you say those values are incorrect?

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Hahaha, this is exactly what I was suspecting why VESC was setting your motor current values so low. Forget Frank, you know how heavy your motor is right? Itā€™s close to 750gram. And you clearly see a 750gram motor class, right? Then itā€™s only logical to go for that instead of what Frank said.

Okay. So instead of mapping I just went in and set the Pulselength Start to ~1 ms and the Pulselength End to ~2 ms. Problem solved. I shut off the remote and the wheels do not accelerate. Except now my remote never gets to full power.

Looks like the problem is in the remote control itself then?

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Yah so receiver is sending 1.5 as idle but when signal comes from transmitter itā€™s not hitting peak now it sounds like. If itā€™s the same distance off from -100% with full brake as it is from 100% from full throttle then can just squeeze both start and end point in by same amount say .1 and end up with same midpoint (1.1 to 1.9).

Personally switched from using potentiometers I had to switch every 6 months or so to a hall sensor so much happier with it now.


Seemed super weird two receivers would both have same issue so figured probably that idle is actually good but tx idle was low before so the rx idle seemed like high 30% or whatever.

Sorry I didnā€™t pay close attention to the values in the screen caps of VESC config probably would have known this if I looked closer.

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so these o. Kaly spring trucks ya or na

If this is the root cause, and it certainly looks it to me, then the Torqueboards remote should work fine when it arrives on Saturday. In that case I am sure Hoyt would be cool about replacing the remote. As @mmaner said before, I should have a backup remote anyway.

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I believe nah. Heā€™s got them on an MBS deck with matrix 2 trucks in those pictures and someone just yesterday said they had to drill holes in the trampa deck to use the matrix 2 trucks. Trampa and kaly decks are very similar and Iā€™m 99% sure have the same bolt pattern.

Hereā€™s my problem with that handleā€¦ Think about how you would grab it. The knuckles need to be curved the other way. Iā€™m a Biomedical and Human Factors Engineer and this drives me nuts. I love the look but think it would be hecka uncomfortable in real life.

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It looks cool but really uncomfortable. Like a sandpaper condom.

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No, I donā€™t say anythingā€¦ :roll_eyes:
Just that it is a bad idea to just guess a batt max and min limit as default by the wizard is not how it should be. Doesnā€™t matter if itā€™s over or under the real battery specs. A wizard should guide you through the set up. If it canā€™t detect the real values than it should make you to enter the right values

I maybe agree? I am probably split on this. One one side if the wizard does ask and the user puts truly ā€œcrazyā€ values(say Ā±5Amps) then the user is in danger. On the other hand what what if the battery is not capable and the VESC guesses 100A(based on a 10AH capacity) user is in trouble.

BUT thankfully because of how bemf, battery voltage and motor resistance work, the battery limits are barely reached even halfway(given such restrictive default motor limits) So itā€™s probably safer to do a smart guess than trust an absolute noobā€™s judgement.

If the user is somewhat experienced, then he/she can just set the battery min and max to their linking(I never alter them though)

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If thereā€™s one thing Iā€™d prefer to avoid, itā€™s buying a combo pack with 200 pieces but you only need 40 of the pieces. Iā€™d rather buy two 100 packs of the sizes I need.

Two questions!

  1. What happens if you do motor detection (Focbox Unity) with your belts and wheels connected (but lifted)? I had to do this to get home. The values in the app were the same as before and my ride home seemed fine.

  2. When charging, I plug the charger in the wall first and then into my charger plug. I heard a tiny spark and my Unity turned on by itself. Should I worry about this behaviour? Happend only once so far.

  1. Nothing. Unless you have extreme amounts of drag (which you shouldnā€™t in any case) the detection works just fine.
  2. It depends. It is not normal so more investigating is required.
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Thatā€™s what it sounds like to me. Youā€™ll no for sure when you get the other remote.

I meant 750g, phone keyboards are difficult for my big beat hands :grinning:. But Iā€™ll redo it anyways just to show the results. What VESC are you running?