Is this clicking normal Everytime i push the throttle and let it go? (running in sensoreless FOC, latest ack FW)
Hello, anyone can help with a remote with screen for hobbywing ESC?
Whatâs wrong with it?
how bad a result would I get doing the motor detection if everything is already mounted?
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Everything mounted is good except the wheel and belt putting load on the motor just take those parts off leave everything else as it will be just free spinning the motor pulley. Extra load shouldnât throw off the BEMF measurement but would take more amps to turn over and no reason to do that when calibrating things.
Iâve heard variously that connecting or disconnecting the drivetrain is better for detection. From my experience it doesnât change much about the results but thatâs just my anec-data.
Same here. I also had to manually alter Flux linkage measurements on my first unity. It detected poorly but ran fine after the adjustment.
I did start noticing weird issues if I was going very fast, let off the throttle, and the throttled back on while still going quickly. The throttle wouldnât engage until the motors had slowed back down to 10mph ish.
Jeff said it was a badly soldered resistor in the end and either shipped a replacement or fixed it.
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Yah I mean in theory you are just getting the flux linkage (relationship between magnetic fields in permanent magnets and coils, roughly speaking) and the BEMF values from doing the detection and the BEMF should just be effected by the way the motor is built/wound and magnets used in it (it is the voltage produced by the motor when acting as a generator essentially so I donât think will be effected by the load, more load just means more amps needed to turn things over.
Did i do an oppsie?
I thought iâm gonna be smart when i instead of the new truck, filed the Motor clamp down. It goes on the truck with a bit of wiggle but it still loosens up after riding. Loctite is applied and it was tight.
Removing material from the clamp may have given it enough room to vibrate slightly, causing the motor plate to drop. Get out the J- B Weld and say hello to your new fixed mounts.
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Donât know where else to put this, so dropping it hereâŚ
Does anyone know where I can get my hands on some 5095 motors? Only thing I can find has a MOQ of 200 10 
.
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is this looking right for a 10s4p (double stacked) and Bestech D140 charge only BMS?
BKB has the wiring diagram without the balance leads, wanted to confirm that I donât use the B- balance lead,
thanks!
This. Also donât touch the bastard for 4 days after applying the automotive epoxy. Just. Donât. Touch. It.
When you finally do, it will be badass
Still trying to work through fixing my unityâŚ
The issues only seem to show up at low speeds, but theyâre still quite severe.
Applying too much throttle right after launch can lock up the wheels and/or make an awful screeching sound that Iâd record if I wasnât afraid to replicate it. Also, applying too much current at low speeds can have a weird braking effect.
From the research Iâve done, it seems like this is caused by stator flux saturation but I canât find any resources on how to reduce it⌠If anyoneâs had this kind of experience Iâd appreciate any tips you can provide 
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No â check these instead
If there is no C- on the BMS then put the C- wires on P-
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great, thank you kind sir!
Also your numbers are switched
The thing you labeled B10 is actually B0 (same as B-) which some BMS donât have a spot for, and some do
The thing you labeled B9 is B1
The thing you labeled B8 is B2
The thing you labeled B7 is B3
The thing you labeled B6 is B4
The thing you labeled B5 is correct
The thing you labeled B4 is B6
The thing you labeled B3 is B7
The thing you labeled B2 is B8
The thing you labeled B1 is B9
The battery positive is B10
The BMS is correct
Your diagram is not
B0 = B- which is the most-negative of all the wires
B1 is slightly more positive than B- (B0)
B2 is slightly more positive than B1
B3 is slightly more positive than B2
B4 is slightly more positive than B3
et cetera
B10 is the most positive wire which is also called B+