Is that beneficial for esk8? Any reason it hasn’t been done yet?
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I imagine it’s just the extra cost/complexity isn’t necessary or deemed “worth it” by most. There is an awesome Youtube video of a 3d printed home made motor using a halbach array (where I learned the term)
I don’t see any reason it would be bad except for the extra otherwise “unnecessary” magnets.
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Yep, that’s where I’ve seen that too 
they are trash
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O ok. The sensor wires shouldnt matter right? Cuz i dont have the sensor wires connected to the unity.
You can run them either way - sensored or sensorless. I like sensored for the zero-speed torque, and B264 likes unsensored for the added reliability.
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im trying to choose between 6355 and 6374 everyone talks about torque between these two i would like to know if theirs a difference in range
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Single drive or dual drive?
For single, the @torqueboards 6380 is my favorite. Single 6374 works. Single 6355 has shitty brakes. Single 5065 is shitty all the way around.
For dual, it depends. Dual 5065 will work. Dual 6355 will work very good. Dual 6374 will be heavy but will work great and stay cooler. Anything over that imho is too much for an esk8.
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dual drive
The performance difference is immense there. It really depends how powerful a board you want
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im talking about will dual 6355’s get more range than dual 6374’s
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Range is predominantly determined by how big your battery is, rider weight, how aggressively you ride, what your ESC settings look like, and how efficient your drive train setup is (PU vs pneumatic, belt vs hub, etc), and terrain (hills vs flats make a world of difference)
6374s will consume a bit more power at the same settings as 6355s, but these other factors listed above have a much more tangible impact.
For a lot of people, a dual PU wheeled setup will average 15-20Wh/mile, where something like one a big pneumatic street carver will pull 30-40Wh/mile. This is largely due to their difference in setup, not even the motors in play.
Overall, more cells in your battery = more Wh = more range.
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thank you that answered my question
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I am looking for a quick drying, non flexible, strong but removable glue. Does anyone know of one that fits that description?
Basically i need something to glue vinyl wrap to a surface (it has peeled off a bit) but i need it to be removable (not leave any trace, don’t care if i need to use acetone)
I would have used double sided tape but i can’t lift the vinyl completly…
Check out mod podge and see if it sounds like it’ll work
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generally a larger motor of the same kv will use less power for the same acceleration, because the copper windings are thicker so have lower resistance, which translates to lower copper losses for the same motor current and acceleration.
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Just a quick question. Is there any downside to using double sided adhesive thermal tape to attach my unity to my metal enclosure?
My understanding was that the differences between similar KV motors were negligible, and that the heavier copper mass in bigger motors ends up requiring a more amps for spin up at lower duty cycles.
I haven’t actually done a side by side comparison of the data though, and there were other physical differences between the boards. Welp, now I’m curious.
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@DerelictRobot imagine you have a motor with only 50% copper fill.
now you take out the windings and put in new windings with the same number of turns but a thicker gauge wire.
now there’s more copper, thicker gauge so lower resistance, but the same number of turns so the same kv. lower power consumption and improved efficiency for the same acceleration ensues.
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I totally follow the theory behind what you’re saying, and don’t disagree. This is outside of my area of expertise, and while the electrical theory here makes sense on paper I’ve seen some things IRL that make me raise an eyebrow I’ll have to dig in a little.
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