Not saying you are inadequate (@least not in this sense), but it may have something to do with alignment. Unless itâs a cheap wrench and improper technique is used, you shouldnât be able to strip a head on 12.9 alloy
Lol thatâs my boy
From amazon lol
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Stop I can only get so erect
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How the fuck do I download a new version of vesc tool? vedders website is complete trash
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New version sucks tho lol
Havent downloaded a new version in at least 12 months so thought it was time to update
Stay with what u have lol
You donât.
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Didnât realise Iâd been out of the esk8 scene for so long that you donât download the new tool. Any particular firmware I should be sticking with? Using FSESC4.12 but moving up to FSESC6.6
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Thanks for replying, I am aware of all these things, but it doesnât help, the vesc just doesnât seem to spin the motor at allâŚ
Just take the tool recco.
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Iâm surprised you havenât stripped out the aluminum yet on the motor stator bolt holes. But if that works well, then rock on brother 
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There are a few variables here that need to be addressed to solve your problem:
Strength of the fasteners used: If the screws themselves are made of low strength steel, then they may be yielding and not giving adequate clamping load. Are your screws made of cheese?
Length of thread engagement: If you donât have a lot of thread engagement, then you may be more likely to strip the threads the screws are engaging with. Are your screws long enough?
Cleanliness: Loctite is quite sensitive to different surfaces, and different surface conditions. Oils or grease, or other things on the thread or in the hole can drastically reduce both the speed of cure, and the final cure strength - Did you clean your parts thoroughly with acetone before loctiting?
Time: Loctite can take up to 24+ hours to fully cure. Did you wait long enough?
Type of loctite: There are literally dozens of types of loctite. What type are you using? Are you following the instructions? Are you using the right one for the job?
Belt tension: Excessive belt tension increases forces on all drivetrain components and reduces both the efficiency of the system, and the lifespan of the parts. Are your belts tight enough to play a musical note when plucked?
If all else fails, you can apply some high strength loctite (maybe 648? Or maybe @b264âs favorite libation, JB Weld!) between the motorâs face and the mount to prevent slipping. That will make it an absolute bitch to adjust the tension in the future or change belts though.
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Yes, JB Weld 8265-S works the best but itâs 100% permanent when used as threadlocker. I would not use it on motor bolts.
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Any reason why this wonât work?
Also if it does why use a BMS for charge only over this set-up? Kinda seems safer?
I think I answered my own question re: why use a BMS> you donât have to open the enclosureâŚbut is that basically the only difference between a BMS or the above?
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most lipo chargers only go upto 6s. the ones that go above that are stupid expensive.
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Opening the enclosure to charge the board sucks ballsack.
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true just checked it only goes to 6.
It does a bit but BMS and not being wired perfectly seem to be one of the main contributors to fires or bricked batteries so iâm looking for temp solutions till I get the balls to go all out cut the batteries cables and seal it up for good.
equally noob question regarding the same.
can i plug 3x2s batteries into the charger at once? (at this stage I am charging 1 by 1)
Without trying it for fear of ruining my batteries I think the JST connections wont go into the 6s slot unless they are one big JST not 3 small ones?