Had to redo my sensor wires after putting the new connector on there, the hall detection works now but still no motor temp but whatever I guess. Going to take a crack at that data logger code now since I have some time just need to find my pi zero W so getting stuff loaded from the internet isnāt too much hassle.
Yeah, I just put some lubricant on the bearings and it is maybe just a tiny bit better.
Just ordered these
Wondering whether I should keep the hubs or just sell them
Are there any pulleys which fit them
dickyho got ya covered.
Who in Germany or the near EU would be willing to connect my 2x 6s lipos to a bestech d140 charge only bms?
I just canāt get into battery stuff. No matter how hard i try thereās always something that confuses me.
Also, i donāt want to start a fire. Batteries and BMS will be provided by me (shipping of course too + a small compensation for the work)
Me and batteries :
Didnāt he say something about how they only work on his style bolting pattern
Also are the hubs any good or should I swap out for some mbs/trampa
Lol i am going to ask the same thing in the future with my build because i just donāt understand
Assembled my brotherās board with a new motor a few days ago; went for a ride today and noticed cutouts when accelerating with full throttle. Fault codes just like before:
New fault codes
Fault : FAULT_CODE_ABS_OVER_CURRENT
Current : 155.6
Current filtered : 130.1
Voltage : 36.40
Duty : 0.477
RPM : 14566.5
Tacho : 23795
Cycles running : 22649
TIM duty : 4010
TIM val samp : 2
TIM current samp : 4200
TIM top : 8400
Comm step : 0
Temperature : 22.70
Fault : FAULT_CODE_ABS_OVER_CURRENT
Current : 124.3
Current filtered : 127.8
Voltage : 34.91
Duty : 0.650
RPM : 22487.6
Tacho : 32732
Cycles running : 22116
TIM duty : 5460
TIM val samp : 2
TIM current samp : 4200
TIM top : 8400
Comm step : 0
Temperature : 28.81
Fault : FAULT_CODE_ABS_OVER_CURRENT
Current : 151.9
Current filtered : 128.3
Voltage : 35.98
Duty : 0.549
RPM : 15957.5
Tacho : 78412
Cycles running : 7161
TIM duty : 4615
TIM val samp : 2
TIM current samp : 4200
TIM top : 8400
Comm step : 0
Temperature : 32.83
Motor seems fine, and it didnāt happen to my brother when riding, but he is a fair bit lighter than me. Any ideas on what I should change?
- TB Vesc based ESC, HW 4.10
- Battery limits: 50A and -20A
- Motor limits: 60A and -60A
- Absolute Maximum current set to 130A
- Running in FOC mode
- Single drive, all connections inspected and they are tight
Perhaps I should increase the max current safegaurd? Or lower some of the limits to make sure it doesnāt happen? Being a skilled rider (lol), the cutouts didnāt bother me, but they are annoying and I definitely donāt want them to happen to my bro. Suggestions?
The aliexpress wheel linked is 100% the same as the one dicky sells. If you hit him up on the forum here, there is a chance it will be cheaper as well.
will cold weather permanently damage a battery. I know performance will be greatly compromised.
As far as I know the cold is actually good for long term storage in general since it slows down chemical reactions/processes in general that lead to the cells breaking down over time. Only down sides are, as you mentioned performance decrease because lithium ions are moving slower through the electrolyte so less current/punchiness to the batteries, second down side is if the battery is cold then goes into a humid enough environment, then condensation can form on and possibly in the cells and can damage things.
- Donāt accelerate at full throttleā¦ I mean do you just slam full on, pedal to the metal when you drive too?
- I think those limits are too high for TB 4.10 would lower things overall, maybe 40/-40 on the motor limits (site says the 4.12 HW is good up to 50A continuous, but wouldnāt push it if you donāt need it and I really donāt think you do). At 20A I can get up to 20mph easily in a short time, it depends on weight and incline though, so YMMV.
- When Iām in a rush in a car, yes (but esk8 is quiet, so why not?) Itās single drive 60A, and Iām used to dual drive with 80A in total at this gearing.
- I guess Iāll try lowering it to 40A then; maybe buy a more powerful ESC later then. Thanks!
I have my own noob questionā¦ so Iāve been trying to get the PiZero to talk to the VESC over UART. I connected the GND/5V and TX/RX from the ācomm portā on the 4.12 VESC and the Pi powers up but Iām not able to read any serial bytes using python
import serial
ser = serial.Serial('/dev/ttyAMA0`, 115200)
ser.read() // supppsed to read a byte but just hangs here
I tried disabling the serial console use by the pi and using the PL011 I believe by adding pi3-miniuart-bt
to the pi config and rebooting
https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/uart.md
Still no diceā¦ any hints on extra things I might be missing with UART comunication to VESC? I guess going to try with arduino or some other things where I can for sure write the serial data and check itā¦ might be time to invest in better oscilloscope too though.
@wafflejock Settings seem to be āreasonableā though. Iāve set mine at 55A and ride with pneumatics and heavy offroading. Maybe it has more to do with FOC because my run in BLDC.
Oh I did totally miss the FOC mode part of it, my limits are actually set the same I just havenāt pushed it that much guess I am on BLDC on my current build too though so could give it a shot see what I can peak it out to, but just seems unnecessary in every day cruising (like I said if not pushing it easy to get up to speed with under 800W, Iām small and on flat land though so I get my scenario isnāt the same as everyone).
Tried limiting battery to 40A, motor down to 50A, and finally both. Lowering motor amps down helped the most, but still getting cutouts, and donāt want to decrease it even more because braking took a noticeable hit already.
I have 2 other identical ESCs, Iāll try those as well, and also give BLDC mode a shot. Thanks for the tips guys!
Iāve also had a certain motor that did this. Never figured it out. Ended up just never using and never selling that specific motor. So many questions.
Mine was a FOCBOX 1.6 in unsensored BLDC though.
Hmm good to know. I think the motor will die eventually due to the can hitting the stator, but kinda wanna keep using it while it works well.
There are some more motor diagnosing tips in here than there used to be, especially if you follow the link