@Jordicious did you see i reserved an esc for you?
This seems like the wisest course of action 
I have indeed heard nothing but good things about TB products, so Iām thinking Iāll hold out for a bit until we at least know more about what those will look like.
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And the bell is perfectly round?
According to my calipers and eye its as round as I can tell. It spins fine under power its just wobbly and the less wobbles the better.
Motor shaft bent?
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I doubt it.
I ride regular so keep that in mind when looking at these photos.
My front foot stays mostly the same angle no matter the speed. It stays around 30Ā° off from perpendicular to the deck.
When I really start hitting speed, I shift my weight on to the front foot a lot and my back foot actually rolls inside.
Idk if you have ever seen @MoeStoogeās wedge on top of his deck but he plants his foot on it to accelerate freakishly fast. I faux wedge my foot on the rear binding to blast off.
This position gives you very little turning control on your rear foot and makes for very stable speed runs
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@b264 for some reason only 1 motor is detecting hall sensors now that I use two receivers couldnāt you help please
What is the best fix and did you have this problem
If you can pull the solder blob off the PCB, then itās not passable. That joint looks cold to me - You can tell by the sharp border between the solder blob and the pad. It should wet out and form a smoother transition.
A properly done joint, when pulled apart, will leave almost all the solder on the pad and just the wire will rip out of the solder. It will take quite a bit of force.
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@MysticalDork does it matter when you solder a pcb (let say bms) and the solder goes through the hole onto the other side?
I donāt have a photo or probleme, just wondering if this can cause an issue
Really depends on the specific PCB.
On most PCBs, the holes are plated through anyway so having solder go through wonāt short anything out. In some cases like vias, adding solder can actually be desirable as it increases the thermal or current carrying capacity.
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another question then, i have a new evolve escā¦other one brokeā¦
one of the phase wires of the motor came off the esc on the old one. do we assume that all the solders are bad quality and that i should remove the solder with desoldering braid and resolder them?
I will share a photo tomorrow
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Hi so I managed to break one of the hall sensors on 1 of my motors by some of the wires ripping out
Having a massive struggle crimping them and wondering what my options are
Do you need hall sensors for Foc sensored or are they just for measuring the values
As in when you ride do you need the hall sensors plugged in
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@PixelatedPolyeurthan I would resolder them just to be safe, but itās not necessary to remove the existing solder - just melt whatās there and add a bit of new solder and flux to help things wet out.
@Halbj613 I donāt know if sensors are needed for FOC, but they definitely help. Theyāre not just for setup/calibration. If your ESC is set up to use sensors, and you donāt have a full working set, that can cause streetface. If you donāt have working sensors, the best course of action is to set your controller for sensorless, and unplug the sensors.
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In sensorless is it push to start
Not always
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How do I know whether it is push to start or not
How can I make it not push to start?
Whats wrong with push to start?
I run sensorless and if you careful enough you can setoff without pushing but at that point you might aswell push
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I live in quite a crowded area so I am constantly stopping and starting
Is there a way to do sensorless not push to start
Also if one motors sensors work the next could that be an option or not really