Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

My tiny 5055 motor cuts out when I break hard, 38A/-35A,
It’s weak, should I lower the breaking power?

Asking for a new girl I just brought here. Who has a build they consider to be a race board? Show yourself
@aliceshi010

@Arzamenable @MoeStooge, please flex upon us

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Very true. @aliceshi010 have a look at their builds. True speed demons

@aliceshi010

is this what your talking about bro this is so sick?

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you so cool man, I love your passion, I can’t wait to get more comfortable on my board!

It’s probably not the motor, but either your BMS or vesc that’s cutting out.

What are the cool kids buying for remote that’s got a thumb trigger

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Not exactly. That will help too, but what Venom121212 is talking about is basically a control for, if you mash the throttle from 0 to 100% instantly, how long does the signal take to do the same thing? By default it’s pretty much instant - you mash the throttle, you get 100% torque RIGHT NOW. You can add a delay, so for example it takes 1 second from when you mash to 100%, before the motor gives you 100%.

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I guess this is the right thread to ask something dumb:
Could I connect one motor to a dual esc (cheapo 20-30A total thing) on both connections to get the full current through the ESC?
Why?

From a practicality standpoint it’s technically doable (no laws of physics being broken) but I think you’ll have lots off issues making it actually work with IRL hardware because it’s not designed for that.

To make it work properly you’d need the ESCs to communicate with eachother to switch in sync.

It’s a dual esc on one pcb, not two separate ones. Likely the ESC
If the motor is not sensored, it should not be a problem - it would just receive double the current, right?

If it were a brushed DC motor, then yes that would be true and it would work great.

But it isn’t a brushed DC motor, it’s a brushless DC motor. Which means the ESC itself has to do all the timing-critical switching/commutation.

Think of the motor like a swing set - The ESC has to know exactly when to “push” the motor for each phase or the motor won’t spin smoothly. Now imagine two people on opposite sides of the swing set trying to push in sync and not being able to see or communicate with each other, and you see where the problem lies. The controllers have no way to be in sync with each other, so they’ll fight eachother instead of helping eachother.

(Even though there are two ESCs on one board, they don’t communicate with each other other than throttle and brake signal, so they will behave just like two single ESCs.)

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Thanks for the precise answer!

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I am bypassing bms for discharge and I just got a new VESC

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@onebluesummer Exactly. Unity ui has something called positive ramping time that does what @MysticalDork is talking about.

Adjusting that throttle acceleration curve will help make it feel not as punchy at start up.

@torqueboards i have the felling that the Magnet retainer ring is coming loose again after you epoxyd it down half a year ago. The right Motor specifically makes a weird sound. If i turn it by hand it sometimes rattles exactly like the first time. But Sometimes it doesn’t. Should i open the Motor and check it/epoxy it myself?

Any guesses as to what the “safe” settings would be for this battery in the motor setup tab, things like motor max amperage, etc? I’m using a dual motor setup

It’s so hard to find a straightforward answer on how to calculate that stuff and usually any explanation doesn’t confirm whether or not the recommendations are for a single or dual motor setup. I really don’t want to fuck up a $300 battery.

@ADrum707 You’re gonna need to find out what cell it uses. Can’t figure out amps with certainty without knowing this.

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