What are my options if even the Red MBS Shockblocks are too soft for me? ^^
New Trucks? Hello No. Paid 160 bucks for the trucks and 250 for the Motor Mount,pulley etc.
No offense intended, what weight are you and what deck?
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~210 pounds (95kg). Deck is the MBS comp 95 Birds.
Might need to add that i like my steering a bit stiffer. A few months ago i lost a Shockblock in the front (red) which got replaced by a Orange one. I recently noticed that if i lean to the right there is a small (gap?) where the deck moves without resistance until it it has resistance again. The small part without resistance obviously doesn’t contribute anything to the steering so its a bit wobbly and loose until its hit that certain spot where the resistance kicks in. Not sure how that happens. THe Shockblock is aligned properly.
EDIT: the “soft” part without resistance could just be the orange shockblock not being that hard on the top because its not fully compressed.
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When I’m programming my VESC, it see both VESC ID’s on the canbus, but the remote only makes one motor work after the input setup Wizard, despite the motor configuration makes both motors spin. What am I doing wrong?
Have you set up the IDs correctly? Have you set up CAN forwarding? Have you made sure the receiver is connected to the master vesc?
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Not sure. How could I confirm that these settings are enabled/setup?
The receiver’s wires are fixed to one of the Vesc’s I can’t disconnect it on the Vesc end
Go looking through the settings in vesc tool. There are quite a few tutorials that cover basic setup and canbus operation. Just make sure the vesc that has the receiver is set as the master and the other one is set as slave.
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I’m running sensored. TB4.12’s on BLDC mode. I was hoping there was a troubleshooting step I could try before having to disconnect the motor from the ESC. I really do appreciate all your help.
what are the dials on the back for on the controller trim and the other one, what do they do?
Is there a way to turn down the throttle sensitivity or do i have to just stop treating it like a gun lol
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You can check out the PWM real-time input in the vesc tool to make sure the full range is being used. If it’s just too punchy and assuming using current control mode can turn down your motor current so the peak just isn’t so high.
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Those are trim on the different channels. Don’t mess with them unless something is fucky.
You can adjust the throttle curve in vesc tool, as well as adjusting the current settings.
But in my experience you just have to get used to not being jerky on the trigger (in either direction) and leaning into the throttle/brakes.
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@onebluesummer I usually keep the right side at 2 oclock. Watch that video. It mentions everything 
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What speed controller do you have?
In general yes, you’ll learn to control the remote better as you begin to harness your powers.
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Is it possible to wire 2 6s lipos in series to a 12s bms without tinkering with the cables? (Goal is to charge the 24Ah faster than with just 2Amps)
For example, the batteries is use have a xt90 plug and some kind of JST?
My idea would be to get opposite plug of the battery and connect that to the bms. so i can disconnect the lipos very easily.
EDIT : like this (only for 6s each)
Ya i heard that in your video. I just realized this wasn’t your write up but on there he said most likely to leave neutral. Just curious what they actually do.
@Venom121212 I have the TB MINI
Yes it’s possible, I have 2x 5S lipos connected in series and using a 10S BMS.
Just make sure that you hook up the series connector for the XT90’s the same way as the balancing ports otherwise things will go boom.
The connectors on the lipos are JST-XH (7pin if using a 6S lipo)
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Perfekt. I use that as a Series Connector
Is there anything to whatch out for regarding the JST connectors? (Not that the bms has a specific pin in a different spot.)
By speed controller i mean Electronic Speed Controller (ESC or VESC)