The issue Iām having by adding space with a speed ring is that it in-turn pushes the belt further off the pulley, creating a little lip hanging over (only a little bit but stillā¦) Is this ok?
ITās hard to see but you can sort of tell the belt is being pushed off the pulley, is this normal?
You could always shave the wheel down a bit to clear the belt, or space the pulley away from the wheel a bit.
1 Like
@torqueboards hey just, wondering are your V5 mounts meant to work with 15mm pulleys and belts? There is very little clearance, as you can see from my photos above.
Have you spun your wheel on the axle without a belt to see of the pullet is true? (No wobbles)
There is a teeny tiny bit of wobble, not sure if I need to worry about pulleys being true with these? I havenāt seen any videos or literature about it with these puleyes, everyone just seems to screw em on and go in the vids Iāve seen.
Yeah thatās not to bad. Iāve seen people get them on all wobbly and it will make the belt travel
1 Like
You just need to use your motor shaft more. Thereās a huge shoulder on those pulleys but you can move it out a bit.
1 Like
Torqueboards pulleys can be a bit fiddly to set up. Think of it like a car wheel. You tighten using a star pattern. Spin it up free and see where the movement is. Tighten the screw nearest to apex of the misalignment. Keep doing that until it runs true. Then make sure that the motor pulley and wheel are in perfect alignment. You are looking for about 1-2mm of clearance between the wheel/pully/clamp.
1 Like
@whaddys V5 will fit with 15mm. You shouldnāt have any issues. You should use a bearing spacer + axle washer and then your pulley & wheel.
You can adjust the motor pulley to get proper belt alignment. The gap youāre showing looks pretty large though. It should only be a 2-3mm gap from pulley to the motor mount.
1 Like
Hi so i want to make a 10 s 5p 30q battery and have fishpaper ordered but its gonna take a month. So was wondering if self adhesive silicone repair tape is suitable for insulating p packs .Iāve got it in toolbox so no waiting lol.
Ps thanks in advance for any help.
@b264
Cool Iāll play around with this when I get home tonigh
1 Like
Man, Iāve never heard it described better.
6 Likes
If each of those 4 lipos is a 6S (I canāt see in the photo) then that will work fine. But you canāt go connecting them and disconnecting them, you need to wire them in parallel once, and when the charges are perfectly matched (fully-charged works). I suggest highly using a BMS and a brick charger and not one of those hobby chargers. It looks like youāre going that route as I see a D140 in the photo. 
1 Like
You donāt want that. Space the wheel out a tiny bit with a speed ring (8mm washer) and then move the motor pulley a little bit if you need to. You want the belt not quite touching the wheel, and all the way on the pulley.
Then, hand-spin it forwards about 5 full turns, backwards about 5 full turns, forwards about 5 full turns, backwards about 5 full turns and see if the belt moves side-to-side. If so, itās not quite aligned straight. Itās better if it stays in the same place doing that.
Iāve got 2 speed washers and the bearing spacer on, and when I spin back and forth a few times the belt eventually slips back against the wheelā¦Is the wheel not true or the pulleys not aligned?
had an unexpected loss of power earlier today, can anyone help explain why this would happen?
This is about as good as I can seem to get it. Thereās just barely enough space between the wheel and belt and it isnt drifting toward the wheel but thereās still a tiny tiny bit of belt not on the pulley. Itās almost like the belts are just a tiny bit too wide/pulleys too narrowā¦
I try to get my wheel pulley as close to the mounts as i can. Ive never used the combination of parts you have atm so im not sure if you can get it any closer. But that might help.
1 Like
I can by removing one of the 3 speed washers but then the belt is too close to the wheel