Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

Itā€™s personal preference, they are both rated for enough current.

Iā€™d probably change the motor bullet connectors because Iā€™d extend the wires at the same time.

Lately Iā€™ve been switching them all to Amass MR60 though which I like much better.

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You like the MR60ā€™s more? Howcome? I have some of those but never tried them because I thought the fact that all the connectors are constricted together would limit wire management. Does it actually make it tidier? Also, @b264 what do you make of thisā€¦


Trying the FOCBOX- not the SK3 motors but some old TB6355ā€™s

Mr60 connectors are bomb. Cleaner and more organized look.

The default settings sometimes will spin your motor, but itā€™s better to have more accurate measurements. Try running the detection again but click the help icon and follow the tips. Doesnā€™t it smell like iTurds in there?

:rofl::rofl::rofl:
REEKS actually
The cigarettes are to cover up the smell

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First thing I usually have to try is increase the duty cycle from 5% (0.05) to 11% and then 12 or 13%

But follow the tips in the little dialog box. Read carefully.

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Cool , will give it a go tomorrow thanks homie

Hey Brian, I changed the duty to .11 and it worked (other than a hall detection error which is prolly due to sensors being broken). Then I tried duty at .14 just to see what happens and a tiny spark shot out of the back of the motor after spinning up. Luckily I could care less about these motors lol. Set the duty back to 11% now and it fine? :man_shrugging::man_shrugging: Should I be worried about whatever happened when that spark shot out?

That sounds really odd. Not sure why.

I never turn it up more than I need to for the detection to work. Once it works, record the numbers and make sure they get applied and saved.

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Iā€™m not gonna worry about it that spark couldve actually been from anything. Itā€™s possible the vibration of the motor on the bench caused 2 phases to touch for a second and short for a split second and it just appeared to come from the motor. who knows

Lets assume it was the vibration from the bench that caused a short, then i wouldnā€™t take it on the street. Street = more vibrations. You get where iā€™m going?

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Totally. I would however be double shrinking all my connections when Iā€™m actually building though, I donā€™t do all that for bench testing

Iā€™ve got of those but the current rating seems a little low. What kinda motor current do you run/have you had any issues they just seem awfully small to me

MR60 is good for 60A continuous and 120A peak for a few seconds - on each of the 3 pins.

Took me a long time to figure out thatā€™s how Amass names stuff ā€“ hence the ā€œ60ā€ in ā€œMR60ā€ :rofl:

So, realistically, you can use them up to about 80A motor max, maybe a little more.

Youā€™re not running full power the entire time. Unless you have full throttle for a couple minutes straight up a kilometer-long super-steep hill and you never get rolling fast enough for the ā€œbattery maxā€ to start throttling it, and your ESC doesnā€™t throttle first, then you wonā€™t ever melt them at 80A motor max. Even then, probably not.

Theyā€™re pretty perfect for unsensored esk8 motor connections.

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Shit this makes way more sense I thought it was limited to 60 across all pins so roughly 20 per pin. Iā€™ll definitely be using these now!

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im doing my first build/first eskate with torque AT tyres, with 2 6355 motors, and am having trouble deciding on to get the 12S4P (1.79" thick ) battery or the 12S2P (1.38" thick )battery. I really only plan on going 5 miles max just to go bomb around some fresh asphalt. Also want to be able to not worry about clearance. The bigger battery is around 1/2inch thicker and i am wanting to put it on 2" drop deck. I just dont ever want to have to use risers etc.

Do you think the 2p would be enough or will it actually rob me of some power from the motors too? Thanks for any help, im so excited!

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2p will give you half the power of a 4p. It wonā€™t really affect low-speed torque and acceleraiton (say 0-5mph, maybe 0-10) but youā€™ll definitely notice a rolloff sooner in the power curve with the less powerful battery. You can also get batteries that arenā€™t double stacked (thatā€™s what makes the 4p thicker) and not have to compromise.

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Guys, can someone tell what is the dimension of evolve carbon gt bms is, want to replace the battery pack but keep the sizing same. Thx

any other person you recommend that makes single stacks w/ enclosures?

@onebluesummer our new setupā€¦ worth the wait :slight_smile:

Thereā€™s always custom battery builders, https://www.eboardsperu.com and bigbenā€™s enclosures that will mostly fit with anything.

Bigger battery is worth it. 12s4p should be the STANDARD lol unless you really donā€™t need it then 10s3p/12s3p but might as well go bigger if it fits.

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