You like the MR60ās more? Howcome? I have some of those but never tried them because I thought the fact that all the connectors are constricted together would limit wire management. Does it actually make it tidier? Also, @b264 what do you make of thisā¦
Trying the FOCBOX- not the SK3 motors but some old TB6355ās
The default settings sometimes will spin your motor, but itās better to have more accurate measurements. Try running the detection again but click the help icon and follow the tips. Doesnāt it smell like iTurds in there?
Hey Brian, I changed the duty to .11 and it worked (other than a hall detection error which is prolly due to sensors being broken). Then I tried duty at .14 just to see what happens and a tiny spark shot out of the back of the motor after spinning up. Luckily I could care less about these motors lol. Set the duty back to 11% now and it fine? Should I be worried about whatever happened when that spark shot out?
Iām not gonna worry about it that spark couldve actually been from anything. Itās possible the vibration of the motor on the bench caused 2 phases to touch for a second and short for a split second and it just appeared to come from the motor. who knows
Lets assume it was the vibration from the bench that caused a short, then i wouldnāt take it on the street. Street = more vibrations. You get where iām going?
Iāve got of those but the current rating seems a little low. What kinda motor current do you run/have you had any issues they just seem awfully small to me
MR60 is good for 60A continuous and 120A peak for a few seconds - on each of the 3 pins.
Took me a long time to figure out thatās how Amass names stuff ā hence the ā60ā in āMR60ā
So, realistically, you can use them up to about 80A motor max, maybe a little more.
Youāre not running full power the entire time. Unless you have full throttle for a couple minutes straight up a kilometer-long super-steep hill and you never get rolling fast enough for the ābattery maxā to start throttling it, and your ESC doesnāt throttle first, then you wonāt ever melt them at 80A motor max. Even then, probably not.
Theyāre pretty perfect for unsensored esk8 motor connections.
im doing my first build/first eskate with torque AT tyres, with 2 6355 motors, and am having trouble deciding on to get the 12S4P (1.79" thick ) battery or the 12S2P (1.38" thick )battery. I really only plan on going 5 miles max just to go bomb around some fresh asphalt. Also want to be able to not worry about clearance. The bigger battery is around 1/2inch thicker and i am wanting to put it on 2" drop deck. I just dont ever want to have to use risers etc.
Do you think the 2p would be enough or will it actually rob me of some power from the motors too? Thanks for any help, im so excited!
2p will give you half the power of a 4p. It wonāt really affect low-speed torque and acceleraiton (say 0-5mph, maybe 0-10) but youāll definitely notice a rolloff sooner in the power curve with the less powerful battery. You can also get batteries that arenāt double stacked (thatās what makes the 4p thicker) and not have to compromise.
Thereās always custom battery builders, https://www.eboardsperu.com and bigbenās enclosures that will mostly fit with anything.
Bigger battery is worth it. 12s4p should be the STANDARD lol unless you really donāt need it then 10s3p/12s3p but might as well go bigger if it fits.