motor AMPS, in vesc tool
60/ 40
I dislodged the screw from the gear and ran the gears thru each other and it still seemed smooth,
What effects will the chunks in the gears have on performance/reliability/strength/integrity? Will I still be able to still use the drive?
I think the wheel gear is melted on the outside part a bit but when they are lined up it seems to spin well
Oh well I guess it matters less now considering my ESC just got fucked somehow. It actually still works, the power button hit something sparks flew and shit now to turn it on I have to plug and unplug the power switch from the ESC. I don’t think that the ESC is very safe now.
I bet this will delay my build at least 3 weeks 
Few short hours so much bad shit!
Need advice on going forward with a new deck. Been skating for a few weeks only, so I’m not 100% sure what to get.
Here are the details:
Currently using this 32" board and my issue with it is being pretty clunky in a dense urban environment, where I have to get off to make sharp turns, so it ends up being just as unmanagable as a ~40" board would, without the high speed stability.
Plus, I don’t really like the completely flat deck.
I wanted to get on the 40" Jet Killshot groupbuy, but seems like it wouldn’t solve my problem.
Would a board with a kicktail be mandatory for my usecase?
I’m 6’3", so really don’t want anything too short.
Are these good options?
Cantellated Tesseract
Zenit Rocket V3
Hi5ber Limelite
121C Aileron
(TB218 trucks with 107mm flywheels, if that makes a difference)
@tipsy I’d say either a kicktail or bindings so you can lift the board with your front foot. @b264 is a kicktail addict, he’s probably got some good suggestions.
@Resonant Replace the setscrew, dig the old one out of the wheel gear, and clean all the holes/screws with solvent before reapplying loctite and let it set for the appropriate time. Also, lubricate your gears with some grease.
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While you’re here what about the ESC?
Looks crispy. Time to buy a new one.
Looks like that thin white wire shorted across something, or maybe that’s a secondary effect. Or maybe the negative lead - it’s blurry but the solder joint looks suspicious.
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I dont think that wire caused it, its just super melted cus there was a tiny fire.
What is that wire for? It most definitely seems to be the cause
Fire wouldnt have melted the wire and nothing around it
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I think the joints were fine but the burns make it look bad. Since it turns on hopefully that means the rest of the components are okay besides the few in the radius of those burn. Hopefully it doesn’t cost me too much (out of warranty now ) for flipsky to repair this, considering it still turns on it that should mean most of the components should be okay, right? At least gives me the opportunity for them to put the PPM wire back on 
I tested the mounts without loctite, one came loose the other didnt, put loctite on it let it set and cure and the result was other was stiff, and that came loose still. Didn’t make much a difference for some reason.
Oh well how unfortunate. All in a matter of like an hour. More time to make it all strong and tough.
2 days, 3 majors components damaged in some way. 
@kalebludlow battery reading on remote. Not sure else were it was suppose to go besides below the ESC since the UART port is on the other side of the ESC.
In the future I’d make sure that no wires can touch the ESC at all
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The board is charred down to the fiberglass in that spot. I’d be surprised if it can be made to work after that. Maybe in single-side mode, MAYBE, but I kinda doubt it since it’s right next to the power input.
Plus, the mosfets are one of the more expensive components of the vesc.
Here are better pictures of it. I cleaned it up a bit, I definitely did not solder the joints like that, that was because of the what I think was a short. I think only that 1 capacitor looks noticeably damaged on the ESC and nothing else.
I would look for a dancing board then get it skinned in carbon fiber to make it stiff, it should have a proper useable kicktail either end
Well, looks like you had a direct short between the power and ground wires.
Don’t do that. Shorts across multi-kilowatt-capable battery packs are bad.
That said, it looks surprisingly undamaged for a full arcflash scenario.
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How easy are returns through AliExpress or Banggood?
I’ve never returned stuff, but they’re usually pretty good about replacements and/or refunds.
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Cool, is one better than the other to buy from?