Yep, those are the Onyx hubs
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K thanks will bear that in mind
i donāt get it. I canāt find even find anything strange in the metr log. Everything is as it should , yet the motor stalls.
right before the spike at the end it happened (maybe 2 seconds before)
it happens 3 times in the video
Hello, i need help pls take a look:
so highest mah cells capable of 24A/2 = 12A per cell. contenders are:
and based on this table Iād include the 40T as a contender.
about the sanyo 20700b
The high internal resistance of the Sanyo B cell makes the voltage sag, and loss of capacity, huge at above 10A or so. You can run it much harder than that but at a certain point you actually get more vaping time using a lower capacity, but more efficient, cell like the Sanyo NCR20700A or the iJoy/Efest/Ampking.
Because these new battery packs have slightly less capacity (they have less cells), they technically have less range than the packs we made with the smaller 20700B. On the flip side, because these new P42A cells have a higher discharge rate, this means that for identical battery packs, we should get more range out of the packs made with the P42A cells because of the lower current we are pulling out of them
[tiny bit salesy]
but I think theyāre both getting at the sag on the 20700b is noticeable enough to be an issue. so youāre in low voltage throttling range sooner with the 20700b. I assume itās worse with less cells in parallel. itās noticeable on the DSS50+
Iād love real world opinions on the 40T and the P42As as I"m making the same consideration for a 12s2p pack.
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We are not going back there this thread will self destruct in 3.2.1ā¦
If you really insist on using Raptor hub motors and want a high level of performance from them, then I would suggest using 4 wheel drive. Get 2 other motors. They should be easy to find, nobody wants them. In a 4WD configuration, my gut feeling is that you will have zero issues with overheating. Of course, youād need more ESCs though. Probably by not being as hot, the polyurethane sleeves would last longer as well.
But really I canāt give you advice without suggesting a different motor in the first place. Those hubs are notorious for overheating and itās an unfixable design flaw.
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Jeff is a smart guy. I kinda wonder what jeff of today thinks of that post.
The 120c limit is compiled into vesc firmware limits. you donāt have to downgrade firmware to get the higher limit. thereās a no limits version of the firmware that none of us wants to advice you to touch.
In Jeffās post he seems to be suggesting that the raptor hubs can somehow handle up to 110c. and is using the 85c - 140c start/end hack to get it to run in that range.
I do not want to be the one to advise you how to run your hubs hot. I donāt think any of us do. The risk youāre wanting to absorb are better suited to someone understanding them better and not following random advice from the internet.
I will say I admire your persistence. 
I know you want to try the 85c - 140c hack. but maybe give up on that idea, and try to find some settings that work for you. In particular expect to use less power. power == heat.
when you say 40% curve? youāre saying you set āacceleration temperature decreaseā to 40% ? or what?
If it was that setting. itās designed to lower the temperature for start/end on acceleration relative to braking (IIUC). The default is 15% I would set it back to that and try again.
Iām not advising this:
but if I was hacking at it myself, risking myself for the learn, I might try 85-120c, then 90-120c then 95-120c Iād avoid 100c+ for start. I might also play with āacceleration temperature decreaseā setting it to 0%. I would get some kind of telemetry so I knew what temperature my motors were getting on the ride. I would get a controlled test going with the same ride each time. I would learn how the change in settings affects my ride. and whatās a useful compromise to get it to run in the temperature range I wanted and warn me when itās too hot and get off.
after all that Iād probably take my regular motor currents and lower them. and ride the thing slower with less power so I never hit the throttling but Iām basically throttled all the time because my motors canāt deliver that power without getting to hot so they just canāt actually do it.
ā¦ Iām gonna try not to keep answering now. :). good luck.
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P42A vs 40T
what are the real world considerations when comparing the two?
I"m looking at a 5p or 6p using the unity. so both batteries would produce > 120A and be able to hit the limits of the unity.
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ok but letās make sure i donāt ever hit cut off regardless as its unsafe
yes 40% is on acceleration decrease
so I should change my cutoff from start 70>90? and put my acceleration decrease to %0 from my understanding
I appreciate your time
and also what motor current do you recommend from the gate ?
and im unable to get telemetry as im broke
also what kinda performance decrease are you thinking ? 30% 50% ?
when i run foc setup on vesc tool without belt attached and then attach bet after itās done it doesnāt work. It onlyworks when i run foc setup with the belt atached.
is that normal?
ok i set my acceleration decrease to 0 and start at 90 and stop at 120 and my motors at 50 a as a pair
it wasnt bad at all i liked it the worse end i was gettin throtled about 37 kmh
Id like to bump it up just a tad bit on the bottom end should i change it to start at 95 ? from 90
again thank all the many people thay went into helping get my bored back to snuff as i feel like its made me a better man (as funny as that sounds)
So I donāt think I fully groked āacceleration temperature decraseā
Decrease the motor and MOSFET temperature limits by this amount during acceleration. This is useful to still have braking torque left when the components get warm. A decrease of 0 % means that the acceleration temperature limits are the same as the braking temperature limits, and a decrease of 100 % meanse that the acceleration temperature limits are at 25 Ā°C.
I think that means acceleration starts throttling before you hit the temperatures you see in the screen. by the acceleration temperature decrease percentage.
- am I reading that right. and if so
- I made a visualizer in desmos would you have a look: https://www.desmos.com/calculator/qfnzuweiys
Iād like to know both if it looks accuate and if it makes sense. ( hard to do ui in a graphing calc)
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If my understanding is correct that ws triggering throttling really early.
not sureā¦ set motor current to as low as you can tolerate?
find a cheap bluetooth module, and use vesc-tool/android or xmatic/ios at least you can just stop pull it out and see what your temp is reading.
yes.
Canāt advise here. Your board. Your life. Your choices.
well i set it to 95c start and 24a and -24a for motor and bttry on both sides, how dose this sound to u ?
It will still be hot but atleast its not stock hot this should atleast buy me 10 degrees im hoping
What is the best possible charger to buy for a 10s battery? Iād love it to be relatively small, fanless, and quiet
I originally wanted a meanwell but I donāt exactly trust myself to fiddle with the knobs to lower the voltage and not fuck anything up 
Iām looking for 7a or 8a*. Iām sick of waiting 3hrs for my battery to charge :v
How to upgrade your Craptor II.
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cant be sayin that drivin a meepo bored and when u got money to blow and want somthing that goes fast if enertion was still around the awnser is still
even evolve is kinda gay, they lost me with the dual kingpin fukry
If you want a good prebuilt esk8, you get a Metroboard X or a @longhairedboy custom board, or a LaCroix board.
Definitely an Evolve, a Meepo, Ownboard, Raptor 2.X these are things you do NOT buy.
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