Anything Direct Drive related (SERIOUS)

Quick 3D :slight_smile:

11 Likes

How would you take these apart? Ie change wheels and so forth?

3 Likes

Dunno Ask @rusins :joy:

2 Likes

I spent 6 hours today servicing my DD ironicly I thought they would simplify my servicing no belts gears pulleys mounts ect. All it does is transfer the issues inside. Never had motors give me so many issues. I am still not a fan, i like mechanical advantage and swapping pulleys. DD you are stuck with fixed torque. They are not bad my love is a love hate. I like being able to go 60km/h + on 150mm wheels but hate I slow down to 5km going up the hill near my house. I would like to try these on 16S.

4 Likes

Ooh, I had imagined it being 1 single, super long motor; your idea is better, because there’s a place for the phase wires to come out!

Unscrew the 2 nuts at each end. Then slide the whole axle out. The axle would have a flat spot / hole in the middle for the motors to attach to using grub screws.

2 Likes

If ur slowing down to 5mph due to the load those wheels are way too big for that load and ur likely cooking the motors. More voltage won’t help. Actually will likely make them even more inefficient

3 Likes

Are they from E-lofty? Not all DDs are built the same…

@Movation : What hummieee said, if they’re 58KV elofty/boudmotor you should stay between 90-110mm wheels, or switch to 4WD

1 Like

Guys, direct drive discussions was my goal not dungeon and dragons :kissing_heart:
I thought the “serious” flag was here to prevent this, though

3 Likes

The serious tag gives the OP the right to flag stuff in their thread and keep the extraneous stuff out. It’s better to handle it that way than for the mods to guess what should stay or what should go. That said, I’ll give this a scrub for now and you can help us later by flagging anything else that detracts from the information. Also making a small change to the title to help.

1 Like

Yeah thanks I quite dislike flagging behavior I must confess

What change?

2 Likes

Direct Drive instead of DD so no Dungeons and Dragons confusion.

6 Likes

Oh OK :joy:

3 Likes

Isn’t dungeons and drags D&D? I always read DD as double D anyway so i have to take frequent reading “breaks” when reading about Direct drives. So I support this…

1 Like

I will just put this out there as a general statement and call for input/questions, in an effort to give some meaningful real world test data on these.

I have 3x sets of Torqueboards DDs on hand for testing right now.

2x sets of 60KV - these have a custom stator length that’s about 15mm longer but the same width.
1x set of 75KV stock TB DDs.

Wheel choices:
72/74/78 duro 110mm TBs PU wheels
Torqueboards AT 6.5"
Custom Kegel Core 6" sixshooter style wheels

I’ve got a few deck/enclosures with batteries/ESC ready to go for testing, so playing esk8 legos is becoming a pretty effortless venture at this point.

What different loadout combinations and testing/data are you guys most interested in seeing? I plan on running Metr logs for now but will be digging deeper into logging practice in general this year.

8 Likes

It is, but the very first post when this thread went up was something about D&D.

I would love for you to do some tests between the 75 and 60 Kv while adjusting the current to match, the 60 Kv set with 0.8x the 75 Kv current, and if possible restrict the top speed of the 75 one so they both have the same, maybe get a long hill and go full throttle all the way, in theory they should heat up the same amount

8 Likes

This is why we’re friends Pedro. That’ll be at the top of the list.

But, there is a difference in stator size between those two DD sets, so we’ll have to take that variable into consideration.

3 Likes

:heart:

Then you can also do a run doing this ratio of stator sizes :smiley:

1 Like

Even comparing one set w different voltages would be something. If the motors are different sizes can’t really compare.

I bet if u compare 10s to 12s and do the same output speed and torque the 10s will be just as good if not better

2 Likes