Can’t find it, would you send me a picture? 
What d’you guys think
My TB110 have an offset core which create a gap with the motor
So I had an idea… turn the wheel 180° and voilààààà!
(That’s also good because the front truck I received is shorter than the rear axle 
)
- Good Idea
- Bad Idea, you’ll die
- Stop annoying us with those damn DDs taht no one care about except you
0 voters
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should be fine as long as spokes goes in enough the core
my fucking chrome won’t let me upload pic…for some reason
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Yeah it’s the same except I don’t have the black spokes
So probably gonna break after 10 km
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the black spokes are just regular cap head screws, they are needed for one of the two cores (and of course i don’t remember which one
this drivetrain has been sitting in my cupboard for at least a year now
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Just a quicky to say my small wires have two switched. Blue and yellow were swapped. Maybe just to get it spinning the right way with the dumb esc. Im sure i read these multi pin higo connectors are only rated for 700w so best to ditch them.
I fitted the esc they sent me even though it has no antenna plug. They say its not needed. Just waiting for the glue to set. There was no thermal paste between the heat sink and some lumps of stray iron made a nice air gap instead.
Fingers crossed this might work now. The battery labelled 25r cells are pink so probably BAK cells not samsung lol
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Thanks
What concerns me more are the sensor wires, I don’t want to burn my storm core if they decided to say fuck to standards
I’ve asked them the schematics on messenger but the guy had no idea what I was talking about 
trust me, none of them actually do. i’ve asked meepo / ownboard / wowgo / backfire / exway, all of them either said they don’t know or just straight up not reply me.
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Well I have hope, they eventually told me the drives were 80kv
Which is quite high btw
I got this set mostly coz they were not using dkp
Maybe I should try to put my Elofty motors on their hanger
That would be the easiest solution
measure the square profile first, so far i’ve seen 3 different square profile hanger
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I see you cropping this pic out of my sale thread pictures from 2 years ago, Michael
Nothing gets past me 
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As long as the spokes of the drive adaptor fits into the wheel well enough 
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Damn you did your homework, didn’t you? 
I’m more concerns about motor/axle length actually
But I’ll have to try, for science at least
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Shhhh, i won’t admit that i was lazy and can’t be bothered to dig it out from my cupboard
i rather not knowing any of these, all these numbers are just adding to the messy shit that we already have, 6 million different length / profile / diameter, gimme a god damn break already, please
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Yeah its only the sensor wires that are switched. The rest looks run of the mill. New esc hasnt fixed it and I heard a funny click earlier. Think i got the motors hot and undid the magnet glue maybe
Was running an old hobbywing 12s esc with no issues for Boundmotor 60kv direct drives with abec 107mm wheels. I’ve now installed 6" pneumatics and after 20mins of hard riding the esc drops me down to speed mode 1 and I have to switch off. I don’t think there’s enough power in the 24 amp esc to push a 200lb rider around.
The new 12s hobbywing esc that are in all the popular belt drive production AT boards seem ideal for my needs.
Question will they work with my direct drives? Is the KV difference between DD and belts an Issue?
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Two possibilities, first slightly more likely:
-
Your ESC is overheating because it’s not designed for the load you’re asking of it.
-
Your battery is draining all the way to hard sag because AT wheels kill your range by roughly 50%.
The issue you’ll face with the new ESC is that your battery is discharge locked to not deliver more than the original ESC can handle in terms of amps. So even if you add the newer, higher amp ESCs, they won’t draw/deliver more than your original ESC.
Your real solution - and it’s a bunch more coin out of pocket - is:
-
A new, higher-range battery with the BMS bypassing discharge
-
A proper VESC that can output and manage/deliver the power from your new battery. (You’ll also need a new remote.)
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Thanks for the swift resolve. I think you’re totally right on the first option as the battery still had plenty juice in it. It’s a boundmotor 12s3p 2170 cell. Reluctant to go down the vesc road as I like tried and tested escs. Especially prefer their remotes. For me a a vesc is only a good as its remote.
I’m looking to buy this new new version hobbywing - it’s in all the latest production AT boards. Your thoughts, before I pull the trigger,
would be greatly appreciated.
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If you spend a little more you could get a vesc upgrade 
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@xsynatic is right, pay a little extra more for a vesc would solve all ur issue to find a correct hobbywing esc that works / u like
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