Anyone with Ronin trucks? Need help with bushing tightness.

Hey, so I just got a bargain deal for a pair of cast ronin katanas. Some old version I think, with the really deep rake.

I have no idea how far I should tighten the kingpin nut though! In case you are not familiar with these trucks… there’s a floating support pin next to the kingpin, and having the wrong tightness can wear out the separate bushing of the support pin, so having the appropriate tightness is really important with this truck.

Picture doesn’t really represent the remaining threads showing, as that’s different on the two trucks I have!

I bought these second hand, and the kingpin nut it came with is not the original one, doesn’t match it in height, so going by the remaining threads on the kingpin is a no go. The remaining threads on the two kingpins also isn’t the same for the last point where I can still turn the support pin by hand…

Should I be able to rotate the support pin by hand after tightening the truck, or thats too loose?

Another way I usually measure the truck tightness is revolutions after I can’t rotate the roadside cup washer. How many revolutions should I do after no longer being able to rotate the roadside washer with hand for this specific truck? 0? 0.5? 1? 1.5?


did you try to contact the Ronin team?

I think you’re overthinking it.

Tighten the kingpin for the main bushings, don’t make their performance compromised for the support pin.

The support pin bushings aren’t really anything too special anyway, its main job really is just making sure the support pin remains properly seated in the socket. I just used pieces of urethane cut into a little rod that can fit inside the pin to replace mine.

The more specialty part that can wear out is the delrin support pin sleeve. If that starts creeping out and doesn’t remain properly seated that can get some pretty aggressive accelerated wear. I just used a bit of super glue to keep mine from creeping out, and that worked reasonably well, but I still check on them every so often.

Also check on the pivot cup.
Some of the early Cronins had pretty crappy pivot cups and Ronin had to offer free replacements to everyone.


Yeah I might be overthinking it, just wanted to make sure they last. I adjusted it like this today, and they felt incredibly good while riding.

When watching a few more videos about these trucks, some also had a normal height kingpin nut. Now I think I may have gotten that version and just my bushings are a smaller due to getting them used.

Thanks I will keep that in mind.

I don’t have problems with the pivot tube yet, no squeeking and no other issues either. Hope it will last for a while, the previous owner said that he never had issues with it either. Really not sure how old these trucks are, their condition looks good to me though.

Will grease everything every once in a while to maintain them, then they should last.

Thanks a lot for all the info!

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I absolutely love my cronins. I agree you’re probably overthinking it. Just tighten to riding preference. I run mine pretty loose. I do recommend the riptide pivot tube. Made a noticeable difference, but I have about 1600 miles on mine now.


Will get the riptide tubes when I order from a shop that stocks riptide stuff next time! Where did you get mounts for them? This would probably be the perfect truck for a secondary single drive high speed board!

@Janux-esk8 made these mounts. I’m not sure he makes them anymore.


So the trick with ronins is to allow the pin to take the precompression, you are riding on 8mm + Rake my advice is to buy some current gen 92A ronin tall bushings, and run them both bot and top. you dont want to compress these at all really, flush kingpinnut or just less does the trick, Taller the bushings - the better they feel.

Been riding these trucks for a while now.

the support pin - should be popped in, and moves around freely but only a small amount, you shouldent touch it as it has a layer of anti size applied. the pin should travel only when riding.and adds amazing grip and shock relief