My friend has an old DIY board and he lost the remote. I checked it out and it has this ESC:
It seems like one of these Chinese ESC’s.
Can anyone tell me more about these? Mainly if it is possible to pair some other remote to it and if it is possible to program them?
It is an old and quite basic board so it is probably not worth investing in a new ESC if we won’t be able to get it running for cheap.
It’s the first entry in ebay
Where are you from? I have two controllers you could try to pair this thing with. (EU)
LingYi esc, also called ‘‘janky mother fucker’’ from it’s janky unpredictable start. Now take whatever I say with a grain of salt as there have been no official releases from manufacturer, just info people managed to gather from using these. There are multiple versions of this esc running arround. Gen 1 is very slow and barely crawls while also loosing FOC position near top end. Gen 2 is quite powerfull (20A batt afaik) and has the janky start (Remote had 1hz refresh rate, that was part of the reason of it’s unpredicatbility). Gen 3 I haven’t tried yet (meepo has a version of it) but it’s promised to be twice as powerfull with smoother start and remote with LCD. Looks wise all of them are pretty much identical, some are potted in silicon others have huge 3-4mm heatsink in bottom. They are eater very reliable or very unreliable. Depends on weather you got the lucky OK unit. Remote is reliable however esc may freeze up if you do a bail from it and you will have to manually restart.
Is it worth investing in new esc? IDK, really depends on how deep are your pockets. IMO If you can get remote for 10bucks, do it and drive the board into the dirt so you understand what you want from eboard and weather this hobby is for you. Then buy new vesc based/generic esc based on data you gathered, VESC based esc’s have steep learning curve, for this one you just plug it in and it works.
Thanks! This is a lot of awesome info.
Any suggestions how can I identify a compatible remote when shopping for it?
DM ed you.
The one you see in the picture should work with your esc. Any other redesigns with 3leds or oled, idk.
As others have said, Ling Yi. Absolute shit ESC. Get a Hobbywing and call it a day if you want to stay with an ESC.
The “braking” was worse for me.
Yep, believe it or not you could also the breaking force with 4 levels. No idea who would use anything else other than max. Also lot of false advertising going on with this esc and any board that included.
I’m amazed nobody has tried reverse engineer this thing or the remote. The hoverboard enthusiasts reversed their esc’s in past. Maybe the terrible board design is stopping them, who knows. 
Ok I am trying to use a single motor Ling-yi esc to fix a very old Evolve.
I hooked up all the wires to their matching colors, and it seemed to spin ok, however with low torque as if sensors were not working. Also it was spinning the wrong way, I swapped two of the phases but I think I would also need to mess with the hall sensors or try another of the 6 possible phase combo. AS well as matching hall sensors?
Am I vastly overthinking this? help please.
I had a single drive lingyi ESC seem to lose 1/3 of its torque for no reason.
Nothing looked or smelled burnt.
I tried different hub motor, same.
Made sure 7s1p battery was truly full and checked sag, same
Swapped ESC with a single drive ‘aladdin’ esc, torque was back to its pathetic normal.
I Dont know if the ‘aladdin’ is lingyi or hobbywing. Came with a Jking cheapo premade I bought as non op parts only 36$ board.
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Have a dual drive 7s ‘aladdin’ too, came with a jking hb2, seems to use same metal tub as hobbywing.
Horrible brakes. 2 or 10 nothing inbetween, and two lasts for 2 seconds, then 10. sometimes stutters between 10 and 2.
Throttle is unsteady, surges at any level less than full throttle. ThisESC and 7s2p battery now powering two single hub motor trucks in a diagonal drive.
I had to attach mr30s to motors. When I mixed up phase wire colors there was bad cogging. Didnt even try to spin, and luckily matching colors across the mr30 had both truck wheels spin correct direction.
Brakes are even scarier with the 70mm wheels and forced narrower stance.
Nose wheelie, and its still braking.
So I just realized I should test without the Hall sensor plugged in (no temp sensor anyway)
It worked great, more torque than when I had the halls wired randomly and it was spinning before.
Seems like I just need to test the 6 possible combinations of hall wires ABC, ACB, BAC, BCA, CAB, CBA and hope they are getting the right voltage and stuff
