ANTUMBRA "Annie" A 14s8p Odachi Track Build

Here’s a snapshot of the build! With its baby on top.

Hello Everyone! My name is Leo; I haven’t been too active on these forums besides lurking and the occasional question, but this will be my first build post! I have been skating for about a year now, and along the way I met a ton of cool people with really awesome builds. I am from Chicago but started riding in Champaign with @Tyy , who has his amazing orange wrapped brady cruiser dubbed “Pumpkin”. I wanted to create an introductory track board for myself, and this is what I came up with!

Backstory

So, this board actually started as an Mboards Endurance 2.0+. Tyler’s Champaign crew went on a lot of long rides, and at the time I was on my Tynee Ultra Belt which not only felt too small but had too little range. Which is when I bought and customized the Endurance.


I upgraded it in several ways, besides the initial griptape design change, I also put it on a set of Mad 3 Links Tyler gave to me. Along with this, I added foot hooks so I could comfortably start learning how to push corners without the fear of falling (more of a mental block I soon learned). Unfortunately, I repeatedly broke the mad links from a combination of Champaign’s terrible roads and my 215lbs frame. Tyler helped me keep them on life support for a while but eventually I switched to 210mm Dualities from @Titoxd1000

The Endurance was very fun but had several issues. First, the standing platform was too narrow. Regardless of drivetrain or wheel size, I often found my feet hitting the tires at full lean (feels weird). The second most prominent issue was the physical structure build quality. Long story short, the carbon fiber deck split apart after only a month or two.

I emailed Mboards and they were kind enough to send me a replacement, but it was a ways out, and frankly I am an impatient person. So, I reached out to the amazing @tomiboi who constructed this deck for me with my request to make it indestructible. That he did.

Now, it was just a matter of swapping everything to the new deck, which I will continue outside of this backstory page. Thanks for reading!

THE NAME:
Ok… So, it’s somewhat difficult to explain the word Antumbra, but I’ll try my best and provide a reference image. Basically, its Latin for “before shadow”. It’s used to explain a phenomenon during an eclipse in which behind the darkest part of the shadow, there is a spot where partial light hits and creates effectively a lighter version of the shadow. I believe it can generally be used in the context of any light hitting an object, but I learned about it from an eclipse. Also, Destiny 2 (RIP), which uses the term in a raid.

The most important thing to remember from all this is that I might be completely wrong, but it sounds sick so I’m gonna use it.

Regardless, I know that’s an annoying name to say over and over, so the board is nicknamed Annie.

THE PARTS:

Deck: Formerly Endurance 2.0+ Deck (Read Backstory), now Tomiboi Odachi V2, 20mm drop.

Trucks: Tito’s Duality Trucks, Flat Version (210mm)

Hubs: MBS Rockstar Pro 2 XL hubs (Silver)

Tires: Exway CST 162mm Racing Tires (May eventually go with bigger wheels idk)

Battery: 14s8p Molicel P42A Pack

Motors: Two 6485 173kv Radium Performance Motors

Drivetrain: Stooge Open Gear Drive, 78t / 23t. Geared for 40mph.

ESC: MakerX D100

Remote: Flipsky VX4 with 3dServicas modded case and hall sensor. Also, an amazing metal thumbwheel.

MISC: Mboards silver anti-sink plates (The only remaining physical part besides electronics), MBS F5 Binding, Vicious grip tape, a fuck ton of spacers, lots of love.

THE ASSEMBLY

With the help of the Champaign crew, and advice from a bunch of people in the racing scene, I was able to deck swap everything and do it all in a clean and organized way.

Side note: how do people drill through their decks by themselves?! My good friend Brian did an amazing job doing the drilling for the deck and I wanted to punch him the whole time for hurting my baby.

Second Side Note: I originally had this on BRPs, which is why the early photos show stooge hubs.

Brian Helping Trim the Enclosure to make the gaskets fit.

Booty Shot

Board Taking a Nap

Internals (No airflow to heatsink pls don’t die)

Absolute Chonky Lad

Yummy Carbon Fiber

And so, it was assembled! Below I will give even more pictures. Do note as I said previously some of the pictures will probably have it on BRPs, I only just got the Exway tires on yesterday.

COMPLETED BUILD PICTURES





There you go, sorry for the unsolicited deck picks, but now on to the notes.

NOTES

  • I Absolutely love the feeling of the duality trucks; I don’t get any wheelbite even with the 210mm hangars. These I knew would feel good as they are very tried and true in the esk8 space by now.

  • The deck gives me plenty of room to plant my feet, I like the 20mm drop and I think the 45mm drop would have had me scraping the ground with these tires.

  • The jump from foot hook to full binding was night and day, despite my protests about drilling into the deck, I have found the momentary pain of seeing the deck being drilled into to be well worth the range of movement that the binding provides.

  • It Should be pretty water resistant, as everything is sealed with gaskets of some sort. Not that I have much intention on riding when its wet out, I already fried some of the Tynee Ultra’s electronics doing that.

FUTURE DIRECTIONS and COMMUNITY QUESTIONS

I have been very interested in trying the go kart setup that I have seen people using online. While I don’t exactly have V6 Money right now, I did manage to snag a set of vega W6 tires and hubs for $150. I know there is no chance in hell they will fit without wheelbite on the 210mm hangers, but I am curious as to if they would fit with the 300mm option. I have heard mixed answers from the racing scene about this, so I thought I’d add it here if anyone has any thoughts.

I absolutely love the Odachi platform, but I almost wish there was either a middle road option in terms of drop (like 30-35mm, idk the exact number) to get more in line with the brady cruiser while still having the deck length, or an even larger drop option (60mm) that could accommodate Kart Tires. Either way it’s a problem for another day; on my current setup everything feels amazing.

Eventually I’d like to 4WD the board, but I feel I kind of shot myself in the foot getting the 173 kv motors. I wanted to get a larger set of Radiums and move these guys to the front, but from what I saw online they don’t offer larger motors in 173kv, only 175kv. If anyone knows how that would impact the driving characteristics do let me know! I’m still relatively new and learning about the sport / hobby.

THANKS TO THE COMMUNITY

Thank you to everyone who helped me with this build! @Tyy helped me a great deal with not only teaching me how to skate but also tips and tricks for assembly (and pouring a bunch of loctite on everything). @MacKeeper28 has had to put up with my constant stream of questions to his dms about not only this build but the karting setup, and for that I appreciate all the advice he has given me. All the New York crew who helped me mounting the wheels (Teddy was part of that again and I felt super bad lol). And Lastly to my friend Brian, who not only did a ton of the legwork for putting the electronics together but also made me the baby Odachi you saw in the first picture! He doesn’t have an account yet despite lurking for a while, but when he does join, he has a serious build of the year contender to show.

I will add some videos of me riding it soon!
That is all, have a good day :)).

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Lovely build thread and board. 9/10, would read again.

You guys have your front bindings angled so sideways. No hate at all, just something I noticed lol

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Thank you! I suppose I never really paid attention to the binding lol. I have found myself getting some foot cramps when I ride for too long with the binding on tight, but I figured in time that would get better as I ride more. My right foot (front) is usually angled outward.

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Was a nice read!

Thats totally fine. As long as the difference in KV isn’t more than ~10% it’s fine. If it’d be more than 10% then you could still get it work just by compensating a bit with gear ratios.

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Oh sweet! Thank you, that is a huge relief. That upgrade is still a bit out as I am operating on college student budget currently, but once I’m ready that will be good to know. Do you suggest just another D100 or should I go for a G300?

It was an absolute pleasure to work on this board and be a part of its development!!

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G300 is the way to go if you can afford it and if you can fit it. It has pretty much flawless reliability and much more power. Would even fully support an inrunner upgrade. Inrunner rear, reacher front would be an epic setup. D100s can be adequate for reachers especially in 4WD, but G300 is just better. I do understand budget constraints though as a university student myself.

I’m actually moving from D100s all around to 2G300 rear D100s front (in about a week when I’ll reassemble stuff on the new chassis), then some inrunner motors rear (probably in two months or so) then later 2G300 and inrunners in the front as well. The 2G300 is basically 2x G300s in a single case.

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It was always so fun helping out any way that I could with your board!!! The baby Odachi was as much as a treat for you as it was for me. Thanks for the shout out. Hope my new build doesn’t disappoint.

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BRIIIIAAAAAAAAAN

A couple kv mismatch should be fine if you decide to switch to 4wd, as long the same motors are on the right side. I’d say hold the upgrade part untill you’re able to max out the controller or your current motor. The D100s should be able to do 200A motor per side, but I’d keep it at 190A max just in case. Same with battery amps, keep it like 10A below the max, just in case… @Dinnye can tell you more about this cause he’s been abusing his setup more than me. Also fun fact, D100s doesn’t rl need a heatsink unless you’re riding hard in rl hot weather, they run quite cool.

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Great build!

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Oh interesting! It was just the heatsink Mboards sent so I tossed it in the new build. Good to know I don’t have to stress about that though.

Thank you! Hope your move is going well!

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I like it!

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I could get into thermal throttling on the D100s even in 4WD with an outside facing heatsink thats like 1kg/2lbs. But probably doesn’t help that an 80C battery pack was sitting right on top of them at that time. I moved to lipos after but that was roughly when it stopped being so hot, so no clue if the battery was the root cause or just the power I’ve been pushing.

Overall, I’d rate the D100s decent, it’s powerful and good bang for your buck, but if you don’t configure it 100% correct it has a tendency of blowing up occassionally (I have 2 blown, plus 1 that died just from plugging it in, but I managed to fix that one). I’m moving to G300 specifically for reliability. That said, the D100s can be reliable as well even at high power. I just want peace of mind of the board always working when I show up to a race.

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Really a shame they don’t offer these anymore. How long ago did you order? Wish I could get my hands on a new one!

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I bought mine the better part of a year ago. Still bummed 3DServicas is not around anymore. This controller mod puts it above the Hoyt in level of comfort for me. Once this one is toast ill swap over to a hoyt. Ill miss the metal thumbwheel too :((

I actually have a VX4 on hand and the skills to remodel this, plus just got a new printer which can finally do accurate no fuss prints.

Will take a bit until I can get to it though as I’m quite busy finishing the new raceboard chassis and launching my brand. But if you could send some pictures I could probably create a decent enough replica.

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I’ll send you some pics in next few days. If you can get around it it I’d appreciate it. Takes that remote to next level and has saved remote from damage on crashes.

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YES!!! That would actually be amazing and I would totally shell out cash for it. The only thing is that 3dServicas also included a metal (aluminum I believe) thumbwheel with a hall sensor and a high tension spring alongside the case that made the kit. I would defenitely be interested in both but for now a replacement case would give me peace of mind about damaging this one.

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