I bet they’ll be fine. I’d be into buying a set, I’m pretty sure. I love quiet gears.
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I installed my 10mm aluminum spacers onto my longboard gear drive. They fit a 608 bearing for extra support too if needed, and could probably fit a 6800 with a 3d printed insert.
Pretty slick I think 
. I think I could have gone with a slightly lighter shade to match the wheels, but I like it.
They’re really good if you don’t want to cut down your shaft so much, or if you want to attach a 50xx motor instead of a 63xx motor.
Should fit any gear drive and I’ll probably make a bunch more in several different colours if anyone wants some.
Ps. Sorry for my filthy gear drive. I haven’t cleaned it yet 
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What makes this drive different?
Can it take impacts?
Can it handle a 50/50 Grind on a parking curb?
This is what I need to know or what makes this different.
Price does not count, nore does looks, imo.
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I think you would be hard-pressed to find a drive that could take 50/50s without incurring significant damage over time, if not immediately. I will definitely design bash guards for them to help mitigate any cosmetic damage from stone chips and such. The case is fully aluminum though, so I expect that it should hold up well over time.
The gears themselves are steel on steel herringbone gears, which should provide excellent performance over time, as well as preventing the plastic gear damage that has been observed in other gear drives (albeit at the cost of a slightly higher weight). Additionally, I don’t necessarily like the idea of using loctite to hold gears onto the motor shaft, and since the shape of the gears cancels out thrust forces, loctite will not be needed between the pinion and the motor shaft. I also wanted to be able to change gear ratios with very little equipment or downtime. Since there is no loctite to remove, it should be simple to change ratios from a 4.58 to a 5.5 with very little downtime or headache.
For future iterations, I will try to integrate tail lights (or headlights for front mount options) that can be hooked up to either a 5v source or a 12v source.
The higher price comes from the fact that herringbone gears are so gosh darn difficult to machine. Can’t really do too much about that unfortunately, unless I change the type of gear. in the future, I will try to get myself a pretty decent mill so that I can at least reduce costs in the aluminum parts.
Until I get them tested, however, this is a lot of speculation. I am definitely not anywhere near ready to sell this as a product. I really need the gears to arrive first so that I can put them through it. But once they do, I will keep this thread updated with the good, the bad, and the things that I will update.
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Lol, very optimistic, but i like how you think.
The clamp/mount system would have to be incredibly strong to cope with that kind of stuff… like welded to the trucks kinda strong.
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You’re speaking my language
I personally would focus on doing one thing, and one thing well. Some tapped holes that are in the right place for separately sold accessories never hurt anyone though.
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I couldn’t agree more. That would be down the line when I have a proper milling setup. It should be cheaper to do when it is an inhouse option, and it could be cutout for lights or left standard depending on what someone wants. The leds could be hooked up to a simple regulator which should be easy enough to source off the shelf. I’ve used the ppm connectors on the VESC to power my leds in the past, but probably better not to do that.
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Just wait 
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I guess double helicals is already a thing.
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Yeah it is possible to have them machined this way. It would be easier to do than a herringbone.
The reason I ruled this out for now is because with a 16mm wide gear, you would be losing some of the tooth engagement even if you had a small 2mm gap in the middle. The gear would probably get louder in this case. A herringbone gear already would have about half of the tooth engagement of a helical gear of the same size and helix angle, so I was worried about taking any more tooth engagement away from that.
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Ah, I see. I think. Wish I knew more about gear design.
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No worries, researching gears is honestly a bit of a rabbit hole. So many principals to consider.
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It just didn’t work out. Most of the local machine shops I reached during the pandemic were at capacity, and others weren’t tooled to produce gears that small.
I think it would have been cool to have steel herringbone, but there’s definitely some tasty options for gear drives right now that would probably make it mostly pointless and obsolete (I mean a v-ring seal? how 2015).
I’ll probably just print some nylon spur gears and use them with some spare steel kaly pinion gears that I had laying around . Would be good for a light-duty application for my next build.
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Man that’s a bummer to hear after you put so much work into it. It looked awesome. There are definitely some good options around right now. I think the drives on some model of Bajaboard are perhaps the only esk8 drive right now using herringbone gears?
I actually haven’t been keeping track of what has herringbone. Setups with angular contact bearings and/or well placed circlips seem to be the way to go for simplicity of manufacturing. Idk how good metal 3d printing would be at this point, but that could be a good solution for herringbone if the tolerances are tight enough.
But yeah it was definitely fun and frustrating to work on getting everything just right. If nothing else, I’ll have a totally unique gear drive when I print up some gears.