Ancient CNC mill refurbishment and upgrade process - Bence's CNC journey

I wanted a CNC mill for a long time now, mostly to mill esk8 parts. The opportunity just came and I grabbed it. Just found an 800kg/1750lbs monster on ebay kleinanzeigen (german ebay) for 1400€ which would give me a very robust and (hopefully) precise base to work with. And most importantly one that I can fit through a doorway. This thread will be an ongoing thread which documents my progress on getting this running and getting it upgraded.

It’s a CNC engraver from 1988, called the Kuhlmann Prokomat P20T and it has 400x400x100 travel. New price (in 1988) was 65000€, I paid 1400+ had to transport it myself (this is harder than it seems). It’s semi disassembled. It’s an engraving machine not a mill (technically), which is something that I plan to address. But first, story time about how I acquired it!

This is actually a weird size because it isn’t the full fledged industrial C-beam type milling powerhouse, but also way better than pretty much hobby grade machine. Which is exactly what I was looking for, capable, needs a bit of work, but most importantly I can fit it through a door (even though it’s not easy).

I was told that the machine is about 800kg/1750lbs. The exact number is somewhere in the documentation. I got like 10kg paper based documentation with it all in german. I’ll need to dig myself into that which I am not looking foward to very much.

So, to the transportation part. The machine is in south Germany while I live in Denmark.

A 9 hour drive away, right? Very wrong… With a trailer, going slow, taking breaks to regenerate the my brain cells that I lose every moment driving so slow… it’s an insanely long drive. So I went to pickup the trailer:

Turns out the company didn’t have the pallet lifters that their website said they have

Which is what I was counting on to load the trailer. When I found this out, I was 23 hours away from the discussed time to pickup the machine. So that meant I went to buy some material to build a ramp:

24m of square steel tubing

And a full sheet of plywood plus bricks to put under the trailer to support it while loading, so that it doesn’t flip.

Here’s the rough plan:

Now onto welding.

Yes I know right outside the house isn’t the perfect setup to weld…

But the weld quality turned out decent I think when I was actually paying attention. The ramp turned out a bit crooked, which isn’t an issue, though it definitely shows that at least having flat ground would be really great…

Now to load the ramp into the trailer and start driving:

We are at T-8 hours and no sleep. Remember google maps saying 9 hours? Well that didn’t think about the slight inconvience of a trailer.

So I arrive at T+6.5 hours, taking 14.5 hours on the drive that way, with one hour sleep halfway on the side of the highway, just to reset my body clock. Then we load everything, it took 4 persons to push the wheeled pallets up the ramp, but it was doable.

The rear suspension sits a little low with around 1.3 tonne of trailer weight (most of which is supported by the trailer wheels, but still. It’s within the limits of the trailer and the car, but barely.

Quick stop at the supermarket for some sugar for the way back, then onto driving. I started driving from the supermarket at 8pm, arrived to biltema just after the danish border to pickup an engine crane at around 2:30pm the next day, so that’s another 16.5 hours in the car, of which I slept 2, again on the side of the highway. The handling of the car felt horrible with so much weight behind, so I was driving extra carefully and slowly. After biltema an hour and a half of extra driving to get home.

Here’s what I bought at biltema. The engine crane is required for assembly, and turned out to be required for moving the parts of the machine into the house also. With the engine crane and trailer rental and fuel and ramp I paid around 800€ on transportation! That’s actually quite significant and I was expecting around half of that.

Also look at that electronics:

It’s ancient stuff! The keyboard and the joystick for the controls feels suprisingly nice, definitely keeping that. I guess that’s what 65000€ of late 80s money gets you, keyboard that feels nice after 35 years. :laughing: The rest of the electronics setup I want to go through and take a deeper look to find out what’s usable and what isn’t really.

Then onto unloading, which I needed to do right after arriving home. So I started driving to get the trailer 10am wednesday and was going like a machine until saturday midnight, that’s 62 hours. Expecting to wake up to return the trailer by 7am, but I slept through all 10 alarms I set, so I returned it 5 hours late around noon. Then came home and slept again until 6pm.

For unloading we used the ramp and some straps, it wasn’t a big issue. Then we took the parts inside, the bridge and the huge table we needed to flip 90 degree to fit through the door, which we did with the engine crane. Given that I was up like 2 and a half days, I wasn’t really in the mood to take a bunch of pictures.

At this point I left the parts resting inside the kitchen area, I had a long sleep, and we continued 2 days later.

I also have to figure out what to do with the computer that’s supposed to be hanging from the side of the machine, install it or throw it out. I kinda like the industrial look but it’s a fair bit of space. That said I do need some sort of on the machine controls.

What needs to be done to the machine:

  • Assembly: mechanical parts are relatively straight forward. With the stock electronics I’d definitely need to read documentation (in german) so that’s difficult. I was planning on refreshing the control setup anyways, so probably not even worth it to play much with the 35 year old motion control setup. The stepper motors are huge, so I want to look into their documentation to see if I can keep them. Their driver is a 3U rack unit, so there’s definitely meat in the setup. I was originally considering using my nema23 closed loop steppers but they look like a joke compared to what’s on the machine now. So I need to figure out how to communicate with the drivers and see how good the motors are.
  • So as mentioned above the motion control setup
  • Spindle: as I said above, this is an industrial engraving machine. The weight and good construction makes it very rigid to mill stuff, but the spindle is for engraving, doesn’t really work for milling. This means its a very high RPM spindle (60.000 rpm!) and very low torque. Milling would need much higher torque and less RPM. So a spindle change is needed. I am looking into options. Thinking either trying my luck with a cheap BT30 kit or just getting a relatively cheap 2.2kw chinese spindle to get started and upgrading to proper ATC spindle later down the line.
  • Z travel. It has 100mm stock, but bridge clearance from table is 220mm. The Z uses a leadscrew instead of ballscrews and the leadscrew also looks relatively worn (on the XY axis, theres ballscrews and I got extra ballscrews for the future, but the ones on there don’t look worn). So since the spindle mod means taking things apart at the Z axis anyways, I’ll figure out how to increase travel, and get a new ballscrew kit to go with it for the new travel. I am aiming for 180mm Z travel after the mods, though if I can get slightly more, I’ll.
  • Enclosure: I definitely want to keep the chips enclosed. I’ll DIY something probably from acryllic and alu extrusions. This needs to happen before I first mill anything.
  • Some kind of chip clearing setup is definitely planned but I first want to have something that works and then look into chip clearing. Compressed air is cheap and works, a mist system would be better, or flood coolant would be ideal but messy and more work and need to look into if I can fit that to this machine.
  • Buy some endmills and stuff, but that’s straightforward.
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Dude.

Let’s see a picture of the door you had to get this thing through?

You are something else… what a journey.

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It’s funny how different this is from @AlexB ordering his little table top cnc machine…

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Next up, we assembled the mill. First thing was flipping the steel table back onto it’s feet (it was rotated by 90 degree to fit through the doorway). Then lowering it down and putting it over the floor protection.

I have a concrete floor (ground floor), with a layer of linoleum overneath. This is problematic because at pressure points the linoleum layer would sink in. To counter this, I layed down a huge rubber sheet on the floor, and then layed down a plywood sheet over. This way the forces around the 4 legs are spread over a much larger area, keeping the floor intact. The rubber sheet under might also dampen vibrations a tiny bit which is always a plus.

Next up was putting the lower half of the CNC onto the table.

The way we did this is that we used the 1 ton engine crane with a bunch of straps under the cnc’s lower half and we pushed the part sideways onto the table. We realised two things: we need to get the straps out somehow. And the crane like this doesnt allow us to move it far enough onto the table. The solution: jack up the table and put bricks under each leg. That way the engine crane can move in closer to the center of the table.

The next challenging part was that we didnt just need to put this on the table, we needed to put this exactly on 3 studs coming out from the table. Because this needs to be bolted down, that way the table’s weight is also used to dissipate the vibrations that cutting forces make. We first put on end on one stud, lowered it the whole thing down, very loosely bolted that part down, then we lifted just the opposite side. We pulled out the now unused straps, then placed the now lifted side onto the two studs coming out from that side of the table. Then lowered everything down and bolted it down onto the table tightly.

Next up was lifting the bridge up (the higher part of the mill). This was relatively simple, we just moved it over the the base with the engine crane to roughly the correct place, muscled it to the exact place, then bolted it down. I used 8x M10x20 bolts but I should use M10x25, for better thread engagement, or maybe even M10x30. I’ll be changing them out one by one wherever I go to the hardware store next.

Now it finally looks like it’s mostly in one piece! Up to this point was the hard part in terms of logistics, now comes the hard part in terms of actually getting to know the machine, tweak stuff, figure out what needs adjustment, etc.

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After the machine was in one piece, we needed to get the bricks out from under it that’s relatively simple, lift it up with a low profile car jack and just take the bricks out. Except one small problem, when we did this, the aligment became quite a bit off, we were overhanging from the wood quite a bit.

Then we jacked one side up with the engine crane and sort of muscled it into a usable place on the wood with all our strengths. Now the machine was in the wrong place compared to where it should be in the room, so much so that it was in the way of the door. So we had to get creative.

Good thing we have brick walls! A couple bricks, some hope, and car jack later, the machine was in the correct place in the room! The rubber mat slides on the floor, so everything moves together. So I can move the assembled machine around in the room now, what a nice surprise :grin:

The next thing I found out is that the planned room layout:

Didn’t work out because the wood tabletop of the mill was overhanging 15cm backwards from the base of the table (the steel part) which took away so much room that the table which was supposed to be behind it didn’t leave enough space for me to sit in a chair behind it… So that table was moved to the area marked as board storage. Given that there’s no longer a table there I’ll be moving the CNC a bit further away from the door to give more space for comfort. And need to figure out something new for board storage.

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I’ll need to finish cleanup before I video the path that the mill had to take before it got into my room. There’s still some mayhem left in the kitchen area from moving the mill through there haha.

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Looks like a fun project. Do you have formal training / a lot of experience on a mill or are you using it to learn? I’ve half ass kicked the idea of finding a small used one to learn on but not sure how the learning curve is.

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No training or hands on experience whatsoever, but I watched a lot of youtube videos on the topic in the past 2-3 years, know CAD pretty well, have an “engineering mind” and I’d like to think I have good “common sense” and am a creative problem solver.

I also have access to a carvera air small tabletop cnc at university (I study electrical engineering), if I need to custom make some adapters from aluminium to get this running, I can do that on the carvera. Having access to that to make simple adapters or brackets definitely was a confidence boost with jumping into the refurbishment of a machine this old. The spindle definitely needs to be replaced.

Definitely watch this video first: https://youtu.be/NTAN2trbDDI

For some entertainment style machining basics I recommend watching this channel: https://www.youtube.com/@NoEngineerHere

If you watch a bunch of youtube videos to have a rough idea of what you are getting yourself into, I’d say it’s doable, but you need to get your expectations realistic before you buy something. Machine weight is more or less proportional to your cutting speeds and cutting qualities. As a general rule, the material your machine is made of should be at least as strong as the material that you want to be cutting into (aluminium frames dont cut steel well). The more work area you have the less rigid your machine will be. To achieve good tolerances you need at least a half decent machine, rigidity, and some practice. If you buy used (which gives the best value by far if you know what you are doing) it’s an unrealistic expectation to be cutting parts right away.

While I do recommend watching a few videos on diy CNC mill builds to have some idea of how these things go together and what construction methods and layouts exists, learn the pros and cons of each, they often paint the picture brighter than it is and I really don’t recommend building your first machine from scratch.

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Hmmm this makes me wanna buy a cnc machine pretty bad

The warehouse where I store my nutraceutical and pharmaceutical manufacturing equipment is a shared space and I get to walk past these beasts all the time… gonna have to pick something up from auction soon it’s about damn time I start breaking end mills & such.



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You’ve got the spirit! :grin: Go for it haha but be ready to spend a bunch until you are actually making parts!

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Wouldn’t want to spend my money on anything else !!

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One sideproject before I’d get to the point where I’d be happy with the machine:

The bellows/ way covers are falling apart… at least the ones that I touched… well, they are 37 years old…

Apparently 3d printing replacements from TPU is a thing!

I kinda want to invest in a new printer soon… Thankfully the worktable waycovers are still in one piece (I was careful not to touch those…) the rest I should in theory be able to print on a small printer. I’ll try and fix up the current ones for the short future but now that I discovered it, 3D printed waycovers is something that I want to make for this machine later down the line.

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Apparently only one end of the ballscrews is supported. I think that’s a weird design… thought it would make sense to support both. Something to look into later.

Just measured table flatness with my dial indicator and it seems to be within around ± 10 micron for the whole table. That’s actually really damn impressive.

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On the other hand, there seems to be around 100 micron backlash on the X axis and close to 150 micron on the Y axis. 0 on the Z axis.

This could mean anything from worn parts to parts that need adjustment. I did get brand new replacement parts for the X and Y axis ballscrews and ballnut, so I should be covered as far as parts go, but I need to find the source of this play and fix it. I am aiming for a backlash in the 10-20 micron range. That balances wear with accuracy. Then have the software apply some compensation for that. I’ll take a deeper look at this backlash after the Brno race which is this weekend.

On the Z axis however the 0 micron backlash also isn’t good. I’m guessing that’s the reason why the Z axis leadscrew looks really worn. Good thing I was planning on replacing the whole Z axis from the start to allow more travel!

Stepper motor situation:

The Berger Lahr steppers that are on the machine now use a nema34 bolt pattern and they are huge. They were great quality at the time.

They also have a really damn heavy 3U rack driver board

Which is like 10kg in itself, quite crazy.

I had some nema23 closed loop steppers on hand from a previously cancelled cnc project, and they look tiny compared to these.

But. The nema23s actually are more powerful and more accurate, which I guess is achieved by being 3 decades newer. Not to mention closed loop.

The old steppers definitely need an upgrade, but it isn’t really a very urgent upgrade. The accuracy is fine for esk8 parts really (even if I wish they had more), and the power, I can just be mindful of. That said, a new nema34 servo set does look attractive medium/longer term. But with what that costs, it won’t happen very soon. Need to run these motors to see how they actually fair cutting material. If not well, I can make nema34 to nema23 adapters and mount my closed loop steppers. Otherwise, whenever I decide it’s time for a cnc router too, I could use the nema23s on there.

I was actually originally planning on having to use my nema23s for the medium term, then saw the size of these and become optimistic, then saw the specs of these and become much less optimistic, but I still want to give them a chance.

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Crazy how dense that is, and yet how big it still needs to be.

Engineers 30~40+ years ago were next level.

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Just ordered a spindle:

Generic 2.2kw er20 80mm spindle, but this is the longer version with an additional bearing. Hopefully it will be decent with low runout. Comes with a Huanyang VFD (decent), the clamp, a water cooling pump, and a collet set which will probably go directly to the bin. The kit was 320€. Need to buy some half decent tooling still.

Also decided to use grblhal for control electronics because it’s open source and really damn good. I actually expected to need to spend more on electronics, this is just a 70€ board roughly and does everything I need so that’s great. Still need to buy the control board, will probably be going with flexihal. It has a modern interface which I plan to use with a touchscreen mounted to the side of the machine:

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As I suspected, the X axis backlash was just the ballnut not having enough preload. Easy to adjust; remove the screws that hold the ballnut to the block on the axis; rotate the ballnut out to an accessible area; tighten the adjustment screw. After multiple steps I went from 100 um to 50 um to 30 um to 0 um where there’s static friction if I give it a thwack (too tight), to 0 um where the dial indicator reads oscillation then always settles to 0 after the thwack. According to chatgpt that means I nailed the adjustment.

Next up gotta do the same thing in the Y axis. The ballnut is much less accessible there so it won’t be fun.

In other sort of related news, I just got my business tax number today, so progressing on the bureocracy front as well, since this machine is meant to cut parts for sale for esk8s soon enough.

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After thinking I nailed the backlash I decided to check other spots too along the axis, and there seems to be significant wear on the ballscrew in the middle. Side backlash is zero now (both sides) but middle is 50um… that’s not good. I got replacement ballscrews and ballnuts with the machine so I guess I might as well install those right away then.

I checked the fixed ballscrew thrust bearing near the motor and that has 3-5um play on the X, that’s as expected, good.

I also checked some roll rigidity to try to find out the conditions of the linear guides and the rigidity of the whole machine and I’m blown away. Y axis using all my weight to apply moment didn’t even bulge the dial, X + Z stack has roughly 20 N/um in the middle of travel which is actually impressive for a machine this class, that’s roughly comparable to an entry level VMC.

So far it’s looking like as soon as I swap the ballscrews I’ll be structurally good. :crossed_fingers:

And seems like spindle is arriving later this week. Really need to order the control electronics asap.

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