Advice for dickyho mounts on Torqueboards 218mm trucks

Hello everyone,

I recently bought an unassembled drivetrain from @gmurad and have spent the better part of two afternoons trying to figure out the best way to attach two dickyho mounts (the newest long blue ones, with caliber clamps) to Torqueboards 218mm trucks.

I’m having trouble with two parts

  1. Getting the circular caliber piece around the truck, I’ve managed to get one with quite a bit of filing - is the TB truck a different profile from regular calibers? I don’t have a pair to check against.

  2. Figuring out the best way to space the wheel and pulley such that the interior ring of the pulley does not interfere with the truck. With an additional bearing on the axle I’m unable to tighten the nut to hold the wheel on completely, or if I do the wheel is unable to spin. Without an additional bearing between the pulley bearing and the hanger, the inside of the pulley scrapes the hanger, which can obviously be fixed by filing, but I thought I’d check before I do any more damage to this truck.

I just used a dremel to grind the circle inserts to fit on the trucks. It took awhile but was worth it.

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Not sure why but the tb218 is fatter than a caliber truck. I dremeled quit a bit on the hanger.

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It’s a tighter fit compared to Caliber IIs. I remember finding a lot of info on this exact question in the “other” forum. Filing the trucks sounds familiar, I think you are on the right track. You might also need to find a way to “force” the c-clamp open a bit (not too much so it doesn’t break) instead of just sliding it.

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Thanks for the assurances everyone - filing and bending out the c-clamp which so what I’ve been doing definitely seems the way forward, I just want to check before I went too far.

Also, can you can post a pic of the second issue? I’m having some trouble visualizing it.

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Is what I’m talking about, however, with the amount you have to file the hanger to fit the c-clamp seems to take care of this problem.

I saw that method but wanted it to be adjustable, and didn’t want to risk bending the mount beyond being able to pull it back in. Thanks for the input though!

Cool. You probably already realized this but because of the 6 bolt design of this pulley you have to make sure it is perfectly centred in relation to the wheel (tighten the 6 bolts evenly and check if it’s not moving out of centre).

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I used a skate bearing as a guide. File the hanger to the same profile.

That will give the pulleys enough room not to rub


Yep - my diy motor pulley from a few years ago followed the same principle so I picked up on the pretty quick.

One wheel and motor on and spinning smoothly. Nothing loc-tited or even tightened appropriately yet but I’ll leave the rest of the filing on the other side of the truck til tomorrow. The rest of my board is in another city that I’m moving back to on September 1st, but once I’m back there and find some time I’ll throw up a build log.

Easy tip for getting a straight pulley.

Put a skate bearing in the pulley and slide it on the axle.
Then install wheel on to axle.
Then put the bolts through and tighten untill they just barely touch the outer washer.
Then tighten in crisis cross pattern a few turns at a time.


Does a bearing happen to fit perfectly inside the pulley? These pulleys don’t take bearings under normal operation.

Watching this drivetrain being put to use is already making me want to build again :joy: I’m sure I will be back building an e-skate during the winter… it’s an addiction

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A regular skate bearing (picked up some Bones Reds from Longboard Haven) doesn’t fit perfectly within the pulley, it looks like dickyho is using a 628z.

These pulleys do take bearings They even come with one in the box

Yeah a bearing fits perfectly and helps keep and get pulleys straight. It also takes torque off the core of your wheel it applies friction to the bearing directly over the axle.
I run all my pulleys with bearings

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Does on mine.

Im not using bearing from dickyho. Just random skateboard parts out of my junk bin.

Strange. Maybe there was a design revision?