I’m planning CF skinning of my deck and maybe some of you may know if we can add water color paint (gouache) to epoxy?
I’m confined and don’t want to put any delivery guy at risk for something so futile, so considering what I have at home.
Cheers.
Alcohol ink is a better option if you want a tint.
If you say better, that means that gouache is not a complete no go, no way, never?
1 Like
I have never heard of it being used. But I am in no way saying that it won’t work. Try it and find out, let us know how it goes!
2 Likes
I’m wanting to add two layers of CF to my deck at once, but most video guides I’ve seen don’t mention a second layer.
I have my first layer of CF on, just one pass with the epoxy. Should I add any more coats of epoxy before adding my second layer of CF? Do I need to sand down the first layer a bit before adding a second layer? Is it good to use a spray adhesive before adding the second layer?
Lots of options and it’s my first time doing it, so I want to make sure I have the order of operations correct.
I’m not expert but I wouldn’t add any spray adhesive at all.
Sand the first coat of epoxy a bit, key up the surface so the second layer of epoxy and fiber have something to grip on.
If you have some really bad low spots on your first layer, a second coat (thin) of epoxy before the next layer of fiber may help too
2 Likes
Know this is old, but its worth correcting/qualifying.
You’ll get the most stiffness with the least weight by having composite on the top and on the bottom.
Its like an I beam, Looks like an I not like a ┴.
Its true that if you only have one layer that it does more work at the bottom, but if you’ve got two layers you do top and bottom not two bottom.
And in the case in the OP in particular since the damaged fiberglass was the top layer, its best to do a layup on the top layer.
If you’re doing it with a proper composite setup like a professional would do, it would all be done in a single layup. Thats not always practical for more DIY methods.
I think doing to separate layups is the right way to go if you’re using the most basic methods, I’ve had issues with air bubbles getting caught between layers before, even with a roller thats supposed to prevent that.
I would sand the first layer down, but only to get rid of any strange surface artifacts that you might have. I wouldn’t be too afraid of sanding into the glass ( assuming you’re wearing good breathing protection ) But I wouldn’t be doing it really on purpose unless its unavoidable to sacrifice some to get rid of like a rouge blob of resin or something like that. Wouldn’t epoxy between layers, just go straight to the second layer and do a top coat of epoxy afterwards if its not perfect already.
5 Likes
These are great videos.
The first video linked is very informative, but he seems to leave out a very important step that is covered in the second video. It is super important to prime a timber surface with resin before laying glass.
The most crucial element of laying glass effectively is in your timing.
This one is also really good.
8 Likes
That last one is the one I followed 
For never having done anything with CF (or fiberglass) and resin, mine turned out not too bad. I used some really crappy CF from China that had holes and creases in it, hence me wanting to do two layers. There are quite a few uneven spots, but I think that’s just on my poor sanding job. I learned a lot from it though! I’m sure the next time I do this, I could make it flawless.
Next steps are just to use 400/800/1200 grit and then polish (if I’m following the steps in that last video). Is this step even necessary? I have no idea what the best kind of polish is. Cheap is best, since it’s somewhat of a mediocre job already.
1 Like
Sanding and polish is just for looks, really.
Can leave it raw - peel ply texture on the resin surface from my Hummie deck. .
3 Likes
Interesting. How do you achieve that?
Do you apply a top coat of epoxy after?
A peel ply is used when vacuum bagging the layup, it leaves a fine weave texture on the epoxy surface.
@Tamatoa you can apply an additional layer of epoxy on top to smooth it out, the peel ply texture provides a good key for the next layer of epoxy. I’d still give it a quick sand tho.
2 Likes
The fucking brand of epoxy I used for the carbon skinning has been out of stock since a couple of months before the coronavirus shit. I am seriously considering passing on the top coat of the road side. It’s just that right now it is not smooth, I can see and feel the weaves of the CF.
I didn’t, because as @glyphiks said I vac bagged this, so used this layer beween my layup and some polyester bleeder fabric which is there to soak up excess resin.
You could use this without a vac bag setup though, laying over the wetted out glass and pressing down onto the layup with a roller. Resin soaks through the cloth but the cloth has a release coating so when it goes off you can just pull it off the part. You end up with texture but there are other benefits for smoothness etc. on the part.
2 Likes
IMO, the textrure is pretty awesome, and its especially nice since a high polish is so finicky. I’ve seen some really good looking even matte finishes straight off.
I wish I could find a way to achieve something similar without having to go so far as to use all the consumable and vac bag.
1 Like
Yeah i also like the peel ply texture
1 Like
Yeah, was planning to skin it but have abandoned that and keeping it as is - it looks and feels good.
@CHAINMAILLEKID I think you can use it without a vac bag. It’s not expensive fabric to buy.
Think I’m gonna paint a little logo on the deck to honour the designer and be done with the finishing of it.
6 Likes
hmm I almost got this 44cm wide but 30cm wide seems a lot smarter to maybe not have to trim.
Do you think this (heavier) fibreglass would be suitable:
1 Like