Would this be right to buy?
WEST SYSTEM 105A Epoxy Resin (1 qt) with 206A Slow Epoxy Hardener (.43 pt) + Mini Epoxy Metering Pump Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JGJ84Y4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bapoDb760C217
1 Like
Yep the 206 
1 Like
Sorry to eavesdrop, but I have used both the resin research and the west systems epoxy. When working with them I fet like The Resin Research flows a little better, the West systems will be easier to build up. Both will result in a strong product when used properly, but the products they are meant to make/repair have different criteria (boats vs surfobards). I hope this helps you. Cheers
2 Likes
This is a fine glass job, well done.
Did you let it harden as it sits in the picture and cut off the excess glass after setting? nice
1 Like
I ended up buying the resin research because it was cheaper. Any tips?
Cheers mate, yeah let it dry and cut with a sharp blade 
1 Like
You must mix epoxy well for a good surface finish. As with any adhesive, surface prep is key. Epoxy hardens at a rate proportional to the temperature. It also creates heat as it kicks, so a cup of resin will kick faster than that same resin spread out over a board. Epoxy is actually forgiving and let’s you mess with it a little after is starts to kick. Poly resin would turn to jell-o in an instant and if you touched it in that state the work was ruined.
Laminating fiberglass and working in resin is an art. I can only claim to be an “enthusiast”, but the best finishes came from when I was really focused after a couple of years of making mistakes and learning from them. Youtube lets you learn from others mistakes, lol
2 Likes
I have seen videos where the 1st step is to spread a base coat, let it cure until it is tacky but doesn’t leave residue on the fingers. Is the base coat a normal mixture of epoxy and hardener? Or is there a difference? Found some epoxy resin locally but nothing about base coat components.
Epoxy and black pigment.
1 Like
Perhaps a gel-coat?
Gel coats are useful for mold making. I think @glyphiks made an enclosure with a mold but I dont have a link handy.
Mine was a 1-off, no reusable mold
That’s it?
They missed an opportunity to sell me a “different” product for more than the clear epoxy.
@iamasalmon, I am going to skin my MTB deck in carbon fiber. I am adding some extension a little bit like @glyphiks did on his MBS deck.
3 Likes
It is difficult to find a gelcoat that will play nice with epoxy. Most gelcoats are polyester based and the two don’t always play well together.
I have been meaning to experiment with epoxy and a hardener as a gelcoat but I havent yet. If i was going to do it I would mix in milled fibre or fused silica into my first coat so it went down thick, let it go tacky and then proceed as usual from there
3 Likes
If that is the application, you don’t need to worry about a gelcoat or similar, just epoxy, cloth, epoxy, boom.
2 Likes
And do I need to get that first tacky like previously stated? Same as in the videos? Just epoxy amd optionally pigments?
Then lay the fiber and pour the epoxy.
I wouldn’t use pigment for carbon fibre unless you don’t want to see the carbon fibre!
I personally wouldn’t wait for the first layer to go tacky, i would wet out the board, roll the fibre into it really really well, and then put another layer of epoxy over. If you wanted to it would make sense to add a hardener into that final coat of epoxy. The final layer of epoxy should be thinly and evenly spread, I definitely wouldn’t pour it on!
@Sender may have a different approach on this one 
1 Like
Alright thanks dude.
I roll the cloth dry and let the resin soak through. Let harden, sand to taste then float more resin on top to smooth the cloth texture. This is how surfboards are laminated.
Ninja edit lol
2 Likes
So no final coat of epoxy? How do you get rid of the cloth texture?
2 Likes
Yes definitey add a top layer to smooth out the whole shebang
3 Likes
Where in Utah are you at? I’m in Logan and I thought I was all alone out here. 