I do believe one or both of the enclosures available at propulsionboards.com should work for your given dimensions. I’ve been using the fishbone one. It doesn’t feel particularly impressive, but it’s held up just fine.
A small few people have, 3DS did one that was clear on all sides iirc, but their new waterproof ones are are aluminum top and bottom plastic center. @ducktaperules has a clear top machined case on his Apex predator built. I like that more, and was where I took a lot more inspiration.
I have one designed for 12S8P. Meant to be lexan top and make aluminum bottom but some other plastic side’s I don’t remember. But at a point I became concerned with the weight and how to mount it after looking at how others were mounting their enclosure and companies like trampa’s enclosure’s mounts, lol…
In discussion with @Savage1 we talked about putting the esc’s below the battery enclosure to spread the mounting load out with a secondary enclosure underneath and that mounted to the deck in a way to be more flexible for actual MTB usage.
I didn’t get that far past the battery enclosure design tho, with 16S and 18S and such starting to get accessible and popular, the idea of a single rigid cell layout became a problem to me. I can dig up the files. What I should really do is math out a bunch of cell layouts and find the min internal dims I can use to fit those various layouts. Maybe alter the pack size goal for ~1Kwh?? Options options.
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I almost went with one of these for my space invader build but didn’t like that they didn’t have black. Wonder if dyeing is an option or how friendly it would be to sand and paint.
https://www.polycase.com/wc-series
The pcb standoffs in the bottom either get cut or are where I run wires.
Hinged lid could be real cool.
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Personally I think if you go the length to make a polycarbonate enclosure it would be remiss to not have a matching deck to go along with it. in order to get strength it might need to be thick with a concave, that when bent could fold in although the enclosure would help that. My thoughts are that you make a thinner clear deck then do fiberglass on the inside where there are electronics to mount that would work out and be light enough. lol lights, gonna need that.
Another vote for Kydex. It’s really not THAT expensive for a reasonable sized sheet, at least here in the US. 0.080" thick (~2mm) should be fine. You can also find it in 1/8" (~3mm) which would be VERY sturdy.
You could always use that acrylic box as a mold to make a Kydex one.
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They are made, not found.
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and where are these made exactly? asking for my bord
wherever you can find one, of course. x.x
And what do you think about this one:
?
I don’t see a material stated, which is sketchy. The wording of the descriptions a bit odd. But it looks pretty standard. Give it a shot, if ya want. Step on it to test durability xD
Also the guy who left a review thinking it was supposed to come with a battery got me. Lmao. Yes. 40 dollar enclosure plus battery. That makes sense.
I have had a few different clear enclosures and i can say with confidence that an acrylic under tray is a bad idea.
on my first build i made a buck i could vac form my own enclosures off.
Acrylic i had to hand was the first attempt which was fully smashed during removal
Second attempt was the same but in 3mm PETG
was fair strong and much more robust.
Everything mounted up great and i used load spreading washers to . . . . spread the load.
I underestimated how hard esk8 vibration is.
Within 3 week i was starting to see major failures on some of the bolting points.
Made these extended load spreaders to try help out.
Also had a think acrylic ESC enclosure.
First crash the board flipped and that smashed right off.
New esc enclosure used CNC polycarb base.
Even wit the load spreaders the enclosure was deteriorating quickly.
eventually that battery died due to water ingress.
This experience put me off making anything clear until last year when i decided to give it another go for a 18s top box. kinda wanted to show off the 18S pack as no one had more than 12s at the time.
Super happy with how this turned out but it was very heavy. i did some serious weight reduction in the bottom as you can see.
Its worth considering that whilst poly carb is very strong its also very dense, so a 10mm sheet weighs the same as it would of it were a 5mm sheet of aluminium. The clear look can be deceiving.
This case has been reliably working on my board for over a year now and has take some big tumbles in its time with little more than a few scratch to show for it.
TLDR:
Acrylic is shit.
PETG is a little less shit.
Polycarb is where its at but its heavy.
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Sexy! (Your stuff always is though)
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Not quite as dense as Al (1.2g/cc vs 2.7g/cc), but definitely a fairly heavy plastic.
PC is also really sensitive to some solvents and organic compounds, and will crack badly if exposed to them while under stress, even at low concentrations.
These crack-promoters include threadlocking compounds, CA glue, and machine oils that are sometimes left on fasteners after manufacturing.
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good catch, i thought it was heavier than that, certainly feels it.
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A bit too pricey for my already way over budget first build 
Otherwise known as completely normal on this forum…
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You guys keep using this word, “budget?” and I don’t know what it means.
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I know im necroposting but id love to see a game cube case top mount…
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Could be an entire thread of interesting items to repurpose into top mount enclosures.
Game consoles are a great choice.
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Already thinking of my second build being a game cube themed ATB…
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