TL;DR at the bottom
Ok, so for those that didn’t read one of the threads that was discussed about this. I got this acedeck that was slightly used and sold to me for $800 by a reviewer that put 13ish miles on it. It sat for a year with the battery at 50%. I tried this model at the last esk8con and loved it and got one. And all of my other 5 boards are diy but i just wanted one production board. But for some reason it was shit.
So first issue, it was jerky af. Somewhere in the middle of riding it, it would suddenly have a burst of acceleration out of nowhere. It was through out the ride. They’re was no consistency. It was just random. Almost like the old 2020 hobbywing or lingyi esc days.
Second issue, at 756 wh capacity with AT tires, i should get around 21 or 22 miles on one charge. I got 16 miles. Way short for a battery this size.
Third issue, the remote. The scroll wheel was so damn loose, i couldn’t feel when i was in braking territory when i applied the brakes. It was just so damn loose. Or sometimes i would accidentally accelerate more while i was riding.
So the improvements. Originally i was gonna work with @hoytkid to do a vesc conversion with a d100s and some flipsky motors and add maybe a vx4 remote. But what ended up happening is i had a friend that worked on batteries assess the pack. The initial issue with the battery was the lack of range. I though some cells went to shit or a p group went to shit.
What he found was the cells were horribly out balanced. So what we did was put in a new bms and did a bms bypass. Which idk why these companies do the discharge through the bms. It seems to cause more problems than anything.
So he was able to put a new bms in, but since the old bms was welded into the pack he left it there but bypassed it. So now it just sits there for voltage cut off. And then the cells rebalanced. But the surprising part is what the jerkiness went away and it just became a smooth running jkesc board. Now it’s not vesc smooth but smooth for a production board. So it seems like the jerkiness issue originated from the bms which makes sense for the sudden and random burst of acceleration as it went through the different cells. Also the range seems to go back to the more predicted range. Still running it so we’ll see, but so far it’s consistent with the predicted range. So this went from a $500 vesc conversion project to a $60 bms replacement.
Next issue addressed was the remote. We just changed out the spring in the remote and now it feels way better and i can feel the braking zone and such.
So overall, it’s back to being a production board i really like. Add the hoyt 5 inch tires and now it’s basically a compact 2-in-1 board with hoyt 5 inch kegal compatible feature. Definitely a less cumbersome board to bring in and out of places. Also experimenting with different riptide bushing combos.
*UPDATE WITH BUSHINGS*
End up doing riptide 96a krank FatCone rear board side, 93a 65-65 krank barrel rear roadside, 93a krank fatcone front board side, and 93a 65-65 krank roadside with small washers. Got me the carvy turns and stability at high speeds i want as it takes advantage of the angle difference. The acedeck ares x3 bushings are actually a little taller, at like 0.65”, than the standard busings that sit at 0.6”. But when i took the stock bushings off the board and did a side by side with the riptide, the stock lost like a half millimeter height and matched the standard 0.6” height. So i just went with the standard FatCone and kept the true 0.65” of the 65-65 riptide. I didn’t believe the half millimeter difference really changed the geometry on the trucks and it works well so far.
TL;DR acedeck bms sucks dick. Change it out. If you get any acedeck apparently, change that bms out. While you’re at it, change out the springs in the remote scroll wheel and the boards bushing.
