ACEDECK ARES X1 - 14S4P 4WD TKP

Ive had two EUCs now. Had an 18XL about a year ago and it was alright. But just didnt scratch the itch.

Then since moving here I had been thinking about it a bit since literally everyone is on one. Local guy was selling a suspension wheel, S18, so I snapped it up. Thought maybe the suspension would make me love it. Kept it for like a month and half is all. Suspension did make it way more fun but it’s just not the same to me. Skater through and through.

Right after moving here though I knew I needed more range to hang with these EUC guys so I found a used flux and snapped it up! Upgraded some stuff on it and now get to go on 40+ mile rides with them. Just gotta try and build a strong eskate community here slowly.

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I know someone with both an acedeck ares and a zeus pro. I’ll see if he can try pairing the zeus HW remote to the acedeck.

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Did anyone prove your theory mate?

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hmm so 5kw board 4wd.
and a 2.5kw board for 2wd. that one has to feel really slow.

and 5kw. I think would start to feel about normal power for most of us. that’s about a 2wd 12s board at 60A a side.

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5kw is pretty respectable, i think a lot of us are used to super powerful VESC setups, for a prebuilt consumer market board 100A from the battery is pretty beefy.

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Oy fellas. I got the board on 3th of August, but had a single slower ride, since the next day I went for a vacation.

After that, these were my points for their customer support:

Last but not least, I’d like to give you some thumbs up! The trucks are incredibly perfect. No signs of speed wobbles, different and more responsive feeling when carving. I got a sensation of a “spring back” when leaning out of the carve. I had to give them three half turns before going on a road, as they might be too light for my weight (about 90kg in full gear). I’m slightly nervous about the bushings at this point. They look squashed a bit more than ideal. Are there options to switch to a harder duro? Are the bushings regular size, or are they custom?

Deck is so nice. I feel really locked in.

Wheels feel like any other 8" setup. The interesting part will be how they’re constructed - if changing a tire will be difficult or easy. I’ll let you know once I have a puncture.

The charger feels like a toy. It’s really light, plastic and without any “heft” or premium feeling. But I suppose there were not many options, as 14s is not very common standart :slight_smile:

The remote does not fit to my hand as well as the boosted one (they’re of a similar construction). I might have to add some rubber or grippy surface, so that it does not rotate in my hand. And as I’m left handed, I can’t easily peek on the remote for any warning messages. But I’ve never seen a left-handed remote, so no complaints to you there. And I love that it is usb-c!

Packaging! The board is really nicely packaged. I felt like I can drop it from a meter, and it’s gonna be fine. All four tires kept their pressure, which positively surprised me. Another thing that caught my attention was the fact that you have it made so one can put 4 tires in the box, and also 4 Street wheels. Are you planning to use this in the future? Or is it so that you can travel with this box? And those alen keys are nice, and 4 spare belts are also very nice :slight_smile:

Oh, one mor thing. Few parts of the griptape were loose once I opened the package. I see this as no problem, because it is directly under feet while riding, so it’s gonna stick

And yes, the rubber charge plug is as much pain as everybody is saying.

got a fishy email from aftersales that fell to spam, that I should do some procedure:

with attached video:

i’d say its a calibration, but I feel a bit sceptcal on that assumption comming mainly from DIY.
well, I did not do it yet. also, I’ve just noticed the “do not ride in more than eco until you do this”

also comment from their side:

Because we found that under the current parameters, if the speed reaches S or S+,it is possible to burn down the controller. The operation in the video is to make the board automatically read the accurate parameters again, so as not to burn the controller. Your riding will Safer.

well, I’ve ridden about 20-25km that evening, noticing some weird tearing in the remote responsivness. when I accelerated, then let the wheel off, it kicks slightly. when I move the wheel to accelerate, it kicks way more than comfortable. this to me feels like too short ramping times, especially the ramp-up

also on this ride at the end, the remote starting buzzing. I’ve read the instructions, so I knew it means that I’m at 25-20 percent, but did not see directly at the remote, because I!m not comfortable doing some mumbo-jumbo with the remote at ~35-40 kph on a board with hyper sensistive controlls to read the message that disapears atfer couple of seconds. but I know i dont like buzzing remotes now :smiley:

frrrr, timetravel to today:

I’ve ridden 13.2 and then attempted 22.5km, but did not finished, I’ve gone only ~15km to change to another board to continue on the journey. the remote vibrated a bit more to my taste (more often) and made me worried someting’s wrong.

dragged the board to the floor, remote said 25%. wtf? why so much hustle for quater of the battery left?

peaked to the top of S mode, did not try the S+ yet for reasons which follows.

now, the fuck is going on with this remote, or rather app calibration on this board. almost every time I want to accelerate already at speed, I feel like its gonna throw me off.
and I have no clue whats going on. I’ve never had this feeling on any board before. not boosted, not anything DIY on vesc, not older BF boards. oh once I remember I had the same feeling. on a freacking syl08 which wanted to throw you off any time you decided to use the remote.

or is this normal? am I just a pussy with sloppy thumb without much precision and body too weak to withstand it?

so, after the board swap, I’ve mounted my old trampa which I’ve repaired yesterday after couple of months. and boy, that is feahery smooth throttle and breaks on that GT2E remote.

I’ve been passive in esk8 for couple of months before I graduated, but now I’m back baby. and I’m pretty unhappy with the way the board shoulld feel like part of my body


ps before sending, but a nitpick. the allen keys are rather nice. I did not yet have this type at my shop, but I’ve seen them.
when I was adding the mounts for the shredlights, two things struck me:

  • the bolts have countersunk head, which looks awful on the flat mounts (also, fun fact, the countersunks on the battery cover look manually done, they look similarly unclean to what I’ve experienced countersinking CF deck)
  • the bolts are probably for freedom people and not metric like the allen keys. this means the fit in the head feels prone to slipping, and because of the construction of the truck, you cannot use the skateboard tool to hold the nut, you need a wrench

and while attaching the bash guard:

  • another cherry on top, you cannot use the supplied allan keys for attach the bash guard comfortably, you neead a ball end.

fucking heel this was a emotional vomit…

This was a thing for some meepo boards too, I had a V3 that did this exact thing, very unsettling, it got vesced very quickly

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I would say that the board is riding bad because it is Not set up right and the Email states this , You need to do as the video states to get the esc calibrated. hope you didnt burn your esc . Sexy looking board :slight_smile:

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Yo! Got an Ares X1 myself. I don’t have that throw off feel when acceleration at speed, but a friend of mine does, but only so slightly. Maybe it’s a learning curve to get back to using a bad hobbywing remote. He’s used to a VX1.

Yea, that’s what surprised me the most myself. The trucks are actually, really fucking good. The turning radius is surprisingly small , for TKP, yet still incredibly stable. And most importantly, like you mentioned, the spring back out of a carve is so nice! But I don’t think we have to thank the bushings for that (i don’t think they’re high quality), but the big CNC bushing pivot cups hugging these bushings.

Also, for the rubber charging plug, I found a solution, from looking at another board that I have. Just cut the little nipple at an angle, to allow it to slide in. I can provide a picture if you want. Now it works every time, first try.

Also, you definitely have to do what’s on the video, or you’ll burn the ESC. They sent the very first few boards with the ESC thinking its paired with 6364 motors. Doing the “calibration” will let the ESC know it’s on 6384s. Someone already burned his ESC.

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That was me. Smoked the ESC. Did the recalibrating with the new one and all good.

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Well that makes two of you :slight_smile: There’s another guy from Austria on the facebook group, Christoph something.

Haha yeah. At least swapping it was pretty simple.

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Did you take any pictures of the inside by any chance? Or just the ESC? If not, do you still have your old one?

And wasn’t it difficult to open because of the silicon sealed battery lid?

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Up higher in the thread are all the photos I took of it. Opening it wasn’t bad, used a hair dryer to help release the 3M tape around the edge and a plastic pry tool used for automotive trim. I’ll check but pretty sure I threw away the old esc.

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Oh what a fucking joke. I’m incredibly pissed.

Everybody’s like, hey, do the calibration, or you’ll burn the ESC. I’ve ridden like 50km on S without the calibration, ran well. Did the calibration today. Burnt front right ESC. Have it on video, it’s uploading, will edit this post once on YouTube

I’ve been asking them what the video shows, could not get a response. I really REALLY don’t like doing things without knowing what am I doing. Is it possible that it has already been set correctly and I’ve returned it to the “bad” state?

I’ll put in my own 2 cents here as I had the experience of working with one.

Acedeck customer service told me to hammer the wax out of the enclosure while the battery was still in there. Not only that, but the battery is glued down. To take it out I had to cut the battery out of it’s heatshrink and repeatedly hammer the goddamn esc till it came out. They solve all of their issues with an obscene amount of hot glue to the point where It feels like no sane engineer designed the damn thing.

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That sucks,esc/vesc shit is no fun.I think you should have done as they stated so they would need to replace it, You rode it in s mode which they stated not to do, then did the calibration and probably already damaged the esc. the weird responsiveness of the board while ridding was the esc starting to die/burn i think . I just have a vesc die :frowning: I know how much fun this aint.

The ESC slides out. It doesn’t drop straight down. I couldn’t figure it out till I looked at the replacement and the angled grooves. Once you figure that out it should slide out with minimum tapping. I wish they had documentation on repair processes, something really missing from a lot of these board makers.

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most boards were not designed for user to take apart, if at all.

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I’m not sure if we see it the same. Let me sum it, if I’m correct:

What you say is, that I’ve been riding, which caused the damage, and then did the calibration, and then it died because of the previous riding

What I say is, that I’ve been riding it, it was fine, and then I did the calibration, and then it died because of the calibration

My version sounds more likely as causality of steps (as if I did not do the calibration, it could have been working indefinitely. In my approach, the calibration caused the damage)

But who knows. It’s dead-ish.

Here is the video of the incident https://youtu.be/kWgDmQUyFZ0?t=40

Funny thing, it literally brought me to a guy who has Zeus 4wd :smiley: is that some sign? :stuck_out_tongue:

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