Hey guys, so im trying to figure out what the best way to stack the nickel is, the board has a weird battery box so I have to either use ladder or strip, ultimately i went with strip, but i cant think of the best way to weld the nickel together, I feel like sandwiching each layer ontop of eachother would be good, for instance ( 1 3 2 4 ) with number being strip order OR would doing both layers seperate be better (one at a time but 2 directions together) for instance ( 12 34 )
heres an old for refernce so you can understand the dilemma, in either case iâll have 4x layers on each cell
hey, i did, manufacturer has .15 x 8mm ladder doubled. i have .15 x 10mm strip, but I want to see if its best to double up the connections in a patty (layered one ontop of another) or 2 together (still doubling up but doing oneside at a time
a diagram would be
4s pack/
O = O
IIââââââ II
O = O Should O be =/= or I/I/I/I being 12/34 or 1/3/2/4
sorry if theres confusion, the ladder is how the manufacturer built it. I plan on using strip, I couldnt find the proper 30mm nickel to work with the setup because the battery case is very specific. I wanted to see what the best method to weld the strip would be. should i do each direction doubled first then stack the crossover on top, or do the main positives 1st layer, then stack the crossover in the middle, then main on top, followed by another crossover
Do you have any old prqctice cells , drained to 0.0v, to test whether you can achieve solid welds through two layers of nickel with your welder?
I practiced and experimented a lot before committing, and wound up starting over anyway, as settings on practice cell A did not correlate directly to new cell B.
How much pressure to use on the welding lens, the shape of the tips, and the power of the welder are three variables which influence each other and can make or break a weld, and some welds which look good, peel off way too easily.
If stacking nickel is frowned upon by the experienced buiiders here, do not dismiss.
Its become abundantly clear over the course of your last few forum posts that youâre not actually interested in investing the time into learning to do this properly or doing any of your own research/investigation.
Using thin nickel strips and stacking them for an esk8 battery in 2024 is completely outdated. You wonât find anyone recommending that you do it, and youâll likely find it hard to garner information on how to do it because nobody does it.
Ur description of how you want to orient or weld is confusing. Sure u can use strip n stack it. Weld a layer, then weld another layer on top. If itâs thin add more
I built the battery a few days ago, But unfortunately after 30 minutes of riding (which was fun asf) the left motor blew and shorted the left side of the esc with it. The battery works perfect though fortunately, i figure it was because I didnt use a bms with discharge with the lingyi esc, i think they use 70a but the motors are only 1500w
i had confirmed with dinnye that itll work, its not the best way to do the nickel, but I did a good job looking over other builds, i 3d printed a 21700 mold to glue the batteries, proper fish paper, and imo way safer than manufacturers. But the bms is meant for bypass, and im not sure if id have a better option for an esc power wise (since raldey is 39mph) for the price of 160 (which is the cost)
âif you are going to use the 10mm strips nevertheless, do it like one vertical one horizontal one vertical one horizontalâ I never said you said it was a great idea, I only said you confirmed itd function, which is no issue. you definitely said it was the worst of the 3 options, and you definitely suggested 30mm multiple times, i awknowledge that, but I decided to follow how it was manufactured, paired with others advice, i had decided the best option was strip because of the battery enclosure, and what I currently had in hand. im very confident in my battery and welds overall. its definitely a safer pack than from the factory. Now I just need to figure out a esc to use.
