Hold us up to date how testing goes on.
Not much people gave a valid feedback on them so it’s definitely interesting how they perform. Maybe you even want to start a new thread just about your experience with them. Some log files of rides etc. would be super nice 
This is a pic of the custom proto-board that I whipped up for the project with just components. The resistors are labeled. I’ll show pics with wires soon.
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This is exactly what the community needs more of: smart people with a good idea and the balls to make it real…also god ergonomics 
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For anyone interested in exponentially increasing the rather Darwinian nature of esk8ing, you can try riding around with this rat’s nest. But also, if you want to make your own remote, this is where it starts: a breadboard, components and some jumpers. Once you can make this work with a bench test, your ready to make the proto-shield above to use in a real remote :]
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Here is another step in the wire-up. I added some power and ground wires.
In the Next picture I added the on/off button and the buttons for Menu and Select. The Select button can also be used as a cruise-control button or dead-man switch. Those can be activated in the settings menu. Now we just have to hook up the thumb-wheel, OLED and micro-USB port and we’ll have a remote.
In the below pictures I wire the OLED and Thumb-wheel and some other stuff. I labeled everything new since the last pic. This is the completed, custom proto-shield. All that needs to be done now is soldering on the Feather board.
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Whoops! The Hall power wire needs to go to the 5V out on the booster. You can see where that hole is on the top view.
The green arrow points to the correct location for the Hall power wire.
The Feather board gets tacked on with headers through SDA, SCL, 6, 5, EN, A5, A4, GND and 3V. I add a few extra headers for support. After the code is loaded and everything seems to be working fine, I put a dab of high-temp hot-glue on each of the wire joints. But that’s it. That’s the finished guts to the transmitter that I made. I’ll do a reply for the receiver soon. EagleCAD files are in the works. I should be working with PCBs on the remotes that I make by the end of summer. Oh, one last thing. Make sure to solder the UFL antenna onto the feather board before you mount it to the proto-sheild or you won’t be able to any longer. Honestly, do that as the very first thing, or I promise you’ll forget. I promise 
I’m a lefty but I switch my remote hand all of time. So I think that I’m going to add a second OLED screen to the other side of the remote. This would, of course, make it ambidextrous, but also, the screens would be able to toggle different menus allowing you to see more data without having to press buttons.
If anybody wants to attempt the build, I’m here to help. Happy Riding!
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I didn’t read about the signal but looking for something reliable what does this use? Do u sell it completed?
@hummie The remote uses good ol’ RF with an external UFL antenna. It has a very solid connection. I also include a Bluetooth module for sending data to your smartphone, but that has nothing to do with the control signal. Yes, you can find the finished remote at my website https://3sk8esk8.com/custom-race-remotes/ Thanks for your interest. If you have any more questions, just give me a shout.
Small edit: In one of the pics above there is a wire labeled USB/BAT in green with an arrow. It is going from the USB jack’s VCC to the board’s BAT hole. It should go from the USB’s VCC to the board’s USB hole. My bad.
great Job Man!!!
Does the remote also have the ability to change between speed modes?
KR
Welcome! Matched your level with Builder’s Forum. Carry on.
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@Sharky Thank you:slightly_smiling_face: The remote has three speed modes : Pro, Intermediate and Beginner.
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