A Board | Trampa MTB | 2 x 80100 16kW | 12S 18Ah

So I am doing a bunch of updates to my current board so I am going to continue my build thread here. Here is my previous topic: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/monster-board-trampa-holypro-35-80100-180kv-8kw-fatboy-ss-gear-drive-12s-3p-18ah-dual-focbox/36560

So current setup looks like this:

  • Trampa Holy Pro 35º Deck
  • Trampa Spring Trucks
  • 8" Wheels with FatBoy Solid Wheel Hubs
  • Enertion Nano-X Remote
  • 2 x 80100 180kV 8kW APS Motors
  • 12S 18Ah 65C (3P x 4S x 3S 6Ah 65C Turnigy Graphene Lipo Packs)
  • 2 x VESC 6.4 based ESC (FocBox Back up) Running ±150A Motor ±120A Battery settings (Yet to test new esc)
  • FatBoy ESC MTB Case (with WS2813 RGB strip embedded in plastic)
  • Custom made Aluminium + 3D Printed battery case
  • Esk8Lightuino
  • 4 x addressable RGB light strips (WS2813 based)
  • 200W 5V DC/DC and 400W 12V DC/DC baseboard with GPS module
  • NanoPC T4


So I started working on board again yesterday, spent whole evening trimming and shortening RGB strip for ESC case was sticking up too much and was bit scared that it would short something as RGB strip is basically copper exposed on the sides. While mounting realized that few phase wires will get in contact with rgb strip and can maybe cut through isolator and short something so I split strip in few places was bit pain in the ass to join it with wires.

I glued it in with hot glue

Quick Arduino sketch to see if it still works (slimmed that strip way too much :D)

Also made an extenson on the enclosure so I could remove heatsink with esc without need to mess with wires and etc. Takes a bit of time to solder all those phase wires to the bullets and heat shrink them.

Y splitter for new ESC’s and soldering bullets to phase wires.

Talking about new ESC yesterday I received prototype VESC based on 6.4 so will be putting a thorough test on the journey to Paris (Also will be taking my original focboxes as a backup just in case pulling around 25kg dead weight is no fun at all)

I am making everything easily swappable if something happens so I had to put connectors for buttons and etc stuff and also duplicate for focbox heatsink too

Because of lack of space in ESC enclosure, I will be moving all Esk8thuino and etc stuff to battery enclosure, so from ESC case I have to route out RGB wires, button wires, USB wires, uart wires, ppm wires back to the battery so a lot of wires to make.

I will be using a bit modified latest vesc firmware with slow mode (default current settings) as a default setting and will be attaching nano-x second channel (toggle output) to SWDIO pin which will enable original high current configuration. This will let me easily turn on high power mode without phone or etc.

Code changes can be found here: https://github.com/aurimasniekis/bldc/compare/slow_mode?expand=1

For battery case I have designed an aluminum/ 3d printed part combo last weekend designed these plates and asked father to machine them for me and yesterday I received them looks pretty sick sadly there was not enough time to anodize aluminum so will be using it raw but I think it looks good in raw too will match wheel hubs.

Yesterday started printing the middle part from scratch as this is failed was printing at 300% speed was going really well until 70% when I went to bed and it managed to have few layers splits and is not okay so ordered new bit nicer looking red PETG filament and started printing again.

Electronics will look something like this:

I have already ordered PCB for DC/DC converters and Esk8Lightuino should arrive today

Today will probably continue working on electronics, and tomorrow with mechanics.

I have a new grease we made received so can’t want to try it on my own board to see how it works out and sounds.


I heard this stuff on @ducktaperules drive last week and it was impressively quiet for a straight cut gear. Hopefully it holds up over time after heating and cooling a bunch. I find that white lithium can get gummy and lose it’s sound deadening but still works like a charm for lubing.


Yes, will be trying it out with my 80100 as they heat up to toaster levels. But according to specs and stuff its pretty stable with temperatures, lithium is just one of five active components. Also not the lithium dampens the sound but few others components.

If you come to Paris you will be able to compare the sound :slight_smile: (I am still bit scared about euro star and my board :fearful:)…


I’m not going to make Paris Kugs :frowning: I’m a dirty foreigner and let my fly infested, parched and oppressed African passport expire.

If I try to leave England before it’s sorted they will deport me via cargo hold.


Really like how the battery enclosure is turning out, in you experience, how waterproof the 3D printed part is without painting or anything? This can make a really cheap enclosure by printing like you did and laser cutting the top and bottom

And how did you attach it to the board? That rubber spacers/ vibration isolators?

Ech that is sad… :slightly_frowning_face:

I don’t think the one I am printing now will be really waterproof as I saw one corner lift up before leaving for work but I think it will do for the Paris rides. But the main idea I am doing full infill with 6 perimeters which makes all sides and holes strong and I also include the bottom of like 1mm so I don’t think it will be like pond proof waterproofing but enough to ride through some heavy rains.

I will be attaching it with 6 x M6 bolts through the deck I will try to find some foam or etc to put under the mounting plate and on another side will be another plate with will work like X plate to hold the bolts and will use nuts to secure it as I don’t trust alu threaded holes for these kind fo weights…

1 Like

PCB’s and bolts arrived :slight_smile:


So I came back home to find this…

My prusa hotbed thermo sensor wire broke so temperature was running all other the place…

Wasted almost whole roll of filament :frowning: So fixed wiring and now will be printing in white filament

Good news my heatsink works perfectly for dc/dc converters :slight_smile:


Yesterday (finished way too late to post here) worked on the deck itself cleaned it added new grip tap mounted battery mounting plates and etc…

Now I am starting to take apart gear drive to change lube and gear ratio


Title is a bit misleading… 120x2 = 240a x 50.4 = 12,000 watts max. Not sure what your planning, but I’d love to see how you’ll pull that and keep traction. Surely a beast :wink:

1 Like

Sorry, forgot to recalculate title power but I have been running 160A at beginning but constant front lifting was too much for commuting so lowered down to 120A. I will probably change to 160A as I will be running dual mode. But I am not sure how these prototype vesc will hold so can’t tell yet.

Reworked motors did maintenance and etc stuff…

And reassembled the gear drive

Strangely pulling now much easier with 1:4 don’t know if it’s gear ratio or grease