Aw haha thats cool. I hope it rides okay, when I was pushing it around it felt a little weird because of how high it is and the shape. It’s obviously very different with it being electric though and the flexibility will make the hubs feel better than if they were on a hard deck
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How did you do the drop downs? My build is a work in progress and it is leading to a lot of posts that make progress seem slow and harder to get feedback posts on.
Interested to see how this ends up. Even the riser design makes for such a clean layout.
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They’re in the little gear section at the end 
I’m excited to see my final product too. The only visible wire will be the wires exiting to the motors in the front and back, and those will have green & black cable sleeves as well so you can’t see the phase wire colors
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Thank you!
knowledge is power
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Went for a ride today, it was meant to be longer but got cut short by a weird issue. I don’t actually know what this error usually means but I have never gotten it before. I rode to my destination just fine but it did feel a little bit weird on the way there, had to lean my feet to one side most of the way.
I got off a few times and checked that both motors were still spinning, which they were. I thought it might be a motor issue since I had some weird torquesteer going on. Fast forward a few hours and I’m ready to leave my destination, and I got on my board and right from the start, one of the motors was doing quite bad, and then after that it stopped working all together, it just twitches now when I hit the throttle on it.
Any ideas what could be going on? Here’s a screenshot of my esc tracker, the voltages are wrong bc the bluetooth module stayed on as the voltage dropped once turning it off.
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I posted some updates to the main sections above.
Several days ago, I got my @YUTW123 MakerX esc and powered it up, did a motor detection on the second hub set with a few 3s cells I had laying around. Everything went smoothly and the small size of it is one of the only reasons 4wd is possible on this deck.
Once I get to the final wiring pictures, you guys will see how incredibly tight it is inside the enclosure.
Got my enclosure all printed out, went pretty smoothly except for the front piece, which was a sub-par print due to not having cooling fan.
After sticking all of the electronics in for the first time, I realized just how little space I had in the enclosure. With the placement of my power switch, I wasn’t going to be able to fit the long battery between the front esc / battery indicator, and the power switch.
I made some slight modifications to the power button segment (extended 1 inch and moved the switch a little bit) and re-printed it.
The print came out great and will give me JUST enough space to make it fit comfortably. I didn’t take any updated pictures here, only put it on my snapchat story, so here’s that.
After test fitting the electronics, I knew there were some things that I had to re-solder and prepare to be able to accept the additional ESC. Since I already had a y-splitter for my two TB vescs before, what I did was take the XT90 connector coming out of it and solder both of the TB vescs onto it. The space is so cramped in the back enclosure that there wasn’t enough space for two XT-90’s and I hate soldering them.
So out of the antispark switch, I’ve got an XT-90 with the two TB vescs, and then I’ve also got an XT-60. This one I had to extend by a foot and a half so it could reach the MakerX. After extending these, the power was sorted, so I jammed it all nicely together at the back and taped it into place to make it easier to shove the TB vescs in later.
The only other wiring I had left to do was finished today - extending the pwm cable from my receiver to the front of the enclosure. Fortunately I had an extra-long extension so it was just a matter of splicing it into the current harness. Pretty funny to see four connections coming out of the VX1 receiver lol
Next step is actually getting the electronics and enclosures onto the deck. I decided to put all of the padding on first before trying to final-fit everything. I bought a 10’ roll of neoprene sealing foam and have been using it generously around the pack. There’s pretty much nothing I hate more in esk8 than random vibrating noises, so I plan to make sure nothing in this enclosure can move (besides being able to flex).
I added this padding to all of the enclosure pieces and put two huge strips down the edges of the actual battery, to make sure it stays in place inside the enclosure. I tried moving the battery with the neoprene on, and the friction between the smooth deck and the neoprene is so great that I think you could stand the deck up vertically and it wouldn’t move.
These fit really nicely on the deck now, and even with the foam under the battery I still have some breathing room above the battery for extra flex capabilities. I’ll be checking how much the battery sags once I can turn it over with screws on it, but I think the foam should be able to easily hold it in place vertically within the enclosure.
Here’s a shot of all the internal electronics. I know it’s kind of messy but everything should be well insulated. This whole thing is pretty complicated as it is and doesn’t lend itself well to being organized. My next build will be much cleaner than this, for sure. There’s something to be said for how much easier it is to make something clean from the beginning, rather than adding to the same build and changing it three times.
After finishing the PWM wiring to the front esc, I made sure everything was properly detected, and had my first deck-run at 4wd. Sounds pretty crazy and I can’t wait to try it out. Tomorrow I plan to try and finish the packing in of all the electronics, secure everything, and mount the enclosures to the deck. It’s going to be super annoying trying to figure out where all the holes go, but hopefully I get them all straight.
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Super quick update, my first major test ride had some issues, but simple ones. One of the bullet connectors on a rear esc came undone twice, so I ended up bending it a bit and taping it to hopefully avoid that issue.
After fixing that I was able to ride for a bit and then after fully charging the board (of course) I set it down and a motor wasn’t working. I was like, really? I opened it back up again and when I was poking around, I heard sparking noises, and so I looked closely, and one of the connections on one of the TB Vescs was coming loose. The power cable that goes into the capacitor board on the positive side had come off its solder pad a bit. I did my best to fix it by re-melting the solder and adding a bit more, but we shall see how it holds up with time.
Here’s a dusty picture of it, I will take some better pictures soon. Happy that this is basically done now!
Sidenote, I switched out some of the bushings on it, and it still kind of turns like garbage. I am going to have to get the right bushings in this thing before I actually consider it awesome. The pivot cups are absolutely terrible and one of them actually broke in half, so that explains the lack of agility.
I would say that this probably attributes to bad turning performance. The back isn’t quite as bad, but it’s not great either.
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Awesome dood!
Nice thread and a pretty cool result.
I am curious what you think about riding 4wd hubs after replacing the bushings of course 
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Thanks! It took way more time than I even know haha.
The power of 4wd hubs is pretty crazy, even on the crappy bushings. I still haven’t even maxed out the throttle yet, and this is just 8s. They’re pretty torquey.
If I’m not moving forward then I have to push to start, they can’t do it otherwise. I might try out HFI if I get around to it.
The reality is that they are still hubs and that I still feel bumps pretty hard, the deck flexes nicely though so that helps with constant vibrations, but shock loads kinda hurt sometimes. They can’t compare to the TB110’s lol even though the hubs are 92mm. The urethane on them isn’t that incredible either although it is thicker than some other hubs.
I’m happy with the result, just need bushings to make it actually fun to ride.
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hahaha whom you gonna tell this hahahaha
…I started esk8ing on hubs and for me it feels natural by now even it is NOT hehehehe…but it can be very tricky at speeds with bumbs and cracks. Just kicks away your board from under your feet.
second that. In 4wd configuration them “cheap” hubs are more than enough power and up to 30-35amps still pretty reliable from what i can speak. Its always just heat to keep in mind and check by hand from time to time, but you know about that, i am sure.
Yeah especially sidewalk cracks lmao they’re the worst. We have some huge ones around here too. I don’t think I’ve gone much over like 22 on this board quite yet because I don’t trust the bushings / pivot cups
This is about what Vesc Tool allocated to mine and they’ve been fine at that.
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sorry, but I havnt read the whole thread yet ( im not sure how im gonna missed that) and i have a question: You use dual makerx esc two times,one for the front and one for the rear. So, did you use 2 receivers as well?
Nah I have a makerx dual in the front because it’s so nice and small, and then the back has two TB 4.12’s that I’ve had for a long time in it. This was a 2wd before I converted it this year.
I run double split ppm, so split at the back, and then a pwm cable up to the front, into the UART port on the makerx. The makerx is running on CAN because it was super easy to just do that. (internal wiring)
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Ahh, yeah i got it. The Frankenwheel update 
Would it be possible to run a 4wd with 2 receivers without any hook up connection of lets say two dual esc? Must be, or am i wrong?
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Yeah you could, I’m using the GT2B and I’m pretty sure @b264 has done this before. But alas, I do not have two so, here we are lmao
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hahahaha, no you dont, but maybe some update ideas for the 2021
…yeah, i know about Brians dual receiver fetish and i would second that.
I ride two receivers as well 
but on a brands board and not on a diy.
Interesting is that you can mix up them esc like you want to.
Never heard about that before.
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Yes, definitely
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@b264 this was just a rethorical question to bind you in somehow 
I know it must work bc my 4wd boards have two receivers.
Im just curios how to bind two receivers with one remote.
Does it work with any remote out there or just with the mini or the gtb2 ?
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Just those two to my knowledge and maybe the OSRR if they’ve gotten that far
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ah haha thank you, Brian.
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