$40 Home depot custom enclosure

#floridalife

I hear random keratin fibers can increase the strength of the enclosures.

The sinewave controller that came with my motor is huge and heat sinky, so it has to go outside the enclosure but I think I can do it tastefully.

not sanding it enough should put a stop to that. lol

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Last night I glassed the lid onto the box part, separated only by a thin sheet of wax paper and a prayer.


This is the morning after. either the wax paper or the prayer worked, it came out easy

Trimmed the extra kinda hard cloth with a razor and now ready for the hot coat

I used a few of these hacked-out locating pins to make sure the holes already in the lid will line up later. I sealed all the holes with window sealant putty to drill them out later


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It’s all in the prep

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Finished up this bike is a frenzy last few days. . the lid ended up fitting so very nice. it’s almost like a tupperware lid. still needs grips, so me decent tires and those white zip ties are killing me. One of these days I’ma mess around and make an intergrated Eskate deck


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Damn bro that came out nice! Awesome work!

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What heat sink did you use and where did you source it? I’m struggling to find heat sinks that are properly sized for esk8 applications.

This is awesome! I have the same deck (DB Paradigm) and I would kill for a custom enclosure like this. Guess it’s time to upgrade my skill set once again :man_shrugging:t6:

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this was a community-sourced heat sink for dual focbox. I think I got it from @thisguyhere a while ago for another build and finally got to use it on this one.

3dservisas was making a batch, maybe they still have a few left👍

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I tought is was a flat surface heat sink plate on one side and fins on the other. Thanks for the info though!

I was ready to just mount a flat aluminum plate in the same way. Having the fets basically in the free air like that (separated by a Al plate) is huge IMO, the fins are fine but i suspect the benefit is marginal :+1:

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Fair enough, it directs the air flow a little though :wink:

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This, lol

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@iamasalmon what was your process exactly for laying down the epoxy and glass mat? I’m completely new to this and have never worked with any of these materials or attempted anything like this, so if you could explain it like to someone who’s never used this stuff before? How do you apply the epoxy; is it brushed on just kind of dumped on or what? Do you lay down the epoxy and then the glass into the epoxy, and the glass soaks up the epoxy? Are the terms “resin” and “epoxy” and “gloss coat” all synonymous with the same thing (this stuff https://www.homedepot.com/p/FAMOWOOD-1-qt-Glaze-Coat-Clear-Epoxy-Kit-5050080/301826159 )? Thanks dude, this guide is dopeeee

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@glyphiks pressures on buddy. Lol.

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Have you ever done paper mache? It’s very similar, except your using glass cloth instead of paper and epoxy instead of elmers glue.

The way I did the first layup, I set the dry cloth (use chopped mat, not woven cloth for the first try) in place and cut it more or less to shape, with 1" min extra all around. check to see if I have everything ready, take a deep breath, maybe a beer, then I mix. Right as I mix the stuff, I start a timer. If it says 20 min working time, you have 20 min, including mix time.

The mixing is important. A crappy finish and weak parts are often due to insufficient mixing. has to be well mixed without mixing too much air into the resin and making foam.

Once your mixed, I pour some out in the middle and gently push the blob around to the edges, working the cloth around the shape as you go. It takes a couple minutes for the resin to soak the cloth, let it flow, try not to push the resin into the fibers too much. squeegee (or brush) off the extra, but not too much squeegee. Alternatively, you can wet the resin first then lay it out, but that works best for small (pre-cut) tabs, like for reinforcing corners and joints. It hardens slowly, so you can mess with it a little after it starts to “kick” but not too much. let it harden overnight, then use a razor to clean up the edges, maybe knock some high spots off with a surform. let it curr completely before sanding. (cut soft, sand hard).

if you did good work, you will have little sanding, if not you will have a lot of sanding to do. Sometimes if I have a lot of low spots I fill then sand again.

the gloss coat is a layer of resin over the (now hard) shape to bury the cloth texture. this is poured then lightly brushed so that it completely coveres thee part and drips a bit on the edges. a good gloss coat may not have to be sanded.

You can continue to add layers of cloth and/or resin to get the shape you want.

remeber, there are no mistakes, only more sanding :beer:

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Epic fail

What the fudge

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That looks like a clusterfuck.

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ooof.
Looks like you need easier corners for the glass to work around.
try cutting the foam mold so that it looks more like a trapezoid in cross section.
And round the corners well. And maybe extend the edge of the edge with the wax paper so the cloth doesn’t fall over the edge and lift that corner…

This still looks better than my first enclosure. It is possible to save that one but it might be less work just to start over :sob:

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It was, super annoying lol

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ugh man. Spent all day on this shiat. Let’s see…

problem here is I’m using @rey8801 choochoo deck which is really unstable and wobbly when upside down, so I have to prop it up/elevate it. This is why the deck is so much higher up and there’s that drop off the edge like that. Not sure how I can fix that or change it