Haha!
Im.not good at FG either but same.issue on small ass.parts around contours… I found just cutting pieces of mat to fit each edge worked for the first layer then as I built up.sum layers I could get.it.to stick.more later with longer bits of mat… But I’m still a newb on small projects.
Your foccers aka Cheap FOCer v2s? Could you share which heatsink it is? I have been searching for heatsinks for mine 
And one more question, when should I make the cutout for the heatsink? While its soft or after it hardened?
haha, Focboxes, lol
I think it’s an evolve upgrade plate. Not sure who made them.
I start with the holes after its all hardened. Keeps the carbon fibers from pulling and tearing makes them cut cleaner. The big stuff (like the jagged edges) I razor off after it’s kicked but not hard yet (the morning after) because razors are super sharp compared to drill bits.
If hard, I always put tape down and then mark the hole. Then cut with a drill bit, auger bit or router. then, before I peel the tape, I sometimes seal the edges with a small amount of epoxy and remove the tape just as it’s kicking, but after the excess drips off. this way the resin along the taped edge has time to settle back down and disappear into the rest of the work 
My second time doing this and it’s still just as annoying. Lol. Enclosures r def my least fav part of DIY for sure.
I did three coats of wax this time. Set the board in front of the utility fan to let each coat dry before applying the next one
Theees always some spots that are thin, so I went over those a couple extra times
I also taped wax paper on the underside of the board this time to prevent sneaky bits of resin from getting out. Last time I got some drops on the expensive rubber mat my roommate just bought for the garage. Lol woops
I folded the fiberhlass in half and just laid it on there after pouring the coat on. Once that shits poured on it’s almost impossible to control where it’ll go, so don’t just pour it allá on right away. Save some some so after you lay the fiberglass down, you can pour more on top on the parts that need it. The corners once again we’re fuckin difficult. Also, I didn’t cut the mat to size at all, I just thought I’d leave a ton excess over the edges to make sure it was big enough. Bad move. When the resin soaks into the outside edges of the mat, the weight of it pulls it downward and makes it difficult for it to stick along the edges of the mold. Had the same issue last time too. What I did was in a frenzy grab a pair of scissors and cut the edges of the mat so they wouldn’t pull away from the mold. This worked really well. I just sort of kept going around the enclosure pressing the edges down with my fingers (wearing gloves) until the finally stayed down. It pulls the fibers out and makes a mess but those fibers can be pressed down again once things start to dry. Scissors are donezo tho lol.
After about 4 to 5 hours the resin gets dry enough to where it’s tacky, and you can press all those excess fibers sticking up down with your fingers. Did it here, and it looks pretty ok now. Hoping they will settle into the enclosure while it dries
The corners were still a friggin nightmare and I still haven’t figured that out. What I ended up doing is, from that excess that I cut off that was soaked in resin, I started cutting little scraps off of and sort of sticking them where I thought there was holes or thinner parts. Did that on a couple corners too. Well see how that works out when shit dries. For some reason this part just did not want to adhere to the mold and I just left it eventually cause it’s close enough
Sorry I think I posted that pic twixe, can’t tell I’m posting on my phone. But you can see that didn’t adhere to the mold. On well. Let’s see how this looks when it’s dry…=/
Maybe at this moment when it’s tacky, add another layer with a new mix of fresh epoxy? Just a thought. I’m no composites expert.
Epoxy won’t stick to some plastics.
If you need to smooth it out, when it’s wet, why not lay a sheet of plastic over it and roll that out smooth and leave it until it’s cured. Then peel it off.
Or buy a vac pump, some plastic and some butyl tape and vac bag the fucker. (Problems solved)
[this is more than $40 - sorry]
[[do tools count in the budget?]]
With the exception of that one edge that wouldn’t stay down, I’m pretty happy with how it looks. @b264 I thought the same thing about the extra coat. I’ve only got enough resin left to mix for a final coat and don’t feel like spending on another new set of epoxy, so sticking the fibers down is good enough for me now!
Fair call. I made a vac bagging setup straight up and have only made stuff using that, but am super happy with the process and results.
It feels a bit more foolproof for me (hence why I went that way - removes some of my user error) 
I have typically used peel ply and good amount of bleeder fabric to soak up excess resin.
Lessons learnt it’s probably not that expensive;
(Excluding shipping):
Diaphragm vac pump $120NZD
FX4200 control switch $40ish USD
Rubber tubes and brass connectors $25ish NZD (maybe more depending on how u set it up)
Consumables cost varies depending if you go premium or budget.
Maybe:
Plastic film $5ish per part
Peel ply $2 per part
Bleeder layer $3 per part
Butyl sealing tape $2/metre?
Damn, well initial start up cost is higher but then you got the goods to make enclosures for $25ish. Which is worth it if you’re making many enclosures. Might make the leap…
Yeah I watched and geeked out on the whitepony stiff from the old forum and got inspired.
Bruhhh, link?? I love geeking
Bro. Read up. Be inspired.
Also:
lovelyloveltlovely 
Rough shapes ok
Will have to patch this guy up
@iamasalmon how would you go about patching up just one little spot without using my last bit of resin for final coat? Just mix like a teeny tiny bit up for just this one spot, patch it up, let it dry, and then do the sanding?
Hey man, this looks great!
I would do a little sanding before, right where the patch is going. Sanding will help smooth things out and ensure proper adhesion. use a little cloth so bridge the gap.
consider laying a whole strip for the edge and strengthening the whole edge.
Thanks dude! It’s a bit better than my first enclosure 
lengthening it which way? Wider? It’s already going along the edge of the board =/ I have just a tiny bit of mat left, will it work to just lay a little patch for that spot (don’t wanna go and buy a whole pack of ciberglass mat again lol)? Also, when patching this, I should do that as a whole separate process from puttin on the final coat, right? Or should I lay it in with the final coat? It won’t blend in witht eh rest of the enclosure if I don’t sand it down afterward with everything else–I guess I’m wondering if you sand after the final coat too? Or won’t that mess up the nice, glossy finish, which is the whole point of a final coat anyway right?
there is lots of sanding in your future.
I would knock down the high spots and make it smooth before the first gloss coat. Then sand and do another gloss coat. But if you’re almost out, one gloss coat is enough. I don’t sand the finish on my final coat, just the drips on the underside. If you do the gloss coat right, it comes out smooth and glossy, no sanding needed. Like how a still pool of water doesn’t need to be sanded 
just spent like 5 min looking for the fortune ball emoji. Must be limited to @systembot
What did you mean by “lengthening the whole edge?”
I mean I would lay more mat down just on the outside edges that are going to get screwd (like where the patch is going to go, but all along that whole edge).
Lap it up the wall of the enclosure just a bit, maybe. Depends if the guts are going to be attached to the deck or the enclosure…
ahh you mean so it kind of curls around the edge of the board?
