3DServisas FatBoy 300A AntiSpark

Hey I went looking for a Esk8 electronics/electrical section and this was the next best place, feel free to move it @BillGordon

This A/S has been sitting in its box for a while, I’m approaching it with a certain amount of trepidation, not because of the current drain when off, for storage I plan on maybe using @deckoz’s cool AS150 switch, but I like having a push button which is why I’d like to incorporate this too, maybe that’s weird too and that’s ok with me :crazy_face:

After the battery drain furores for this and MartinSP’s A/S I know I may get some hate on proceeding and again s’ok, let’s go.

Typically FET-based anti-sparks have a very simple design which has pos/gnd in-out with a button connection, sometimes the button comes with and pre-wired so you can just plug and play.

In this case I had to dig up a little and thankfully found a diagram after a little searching, but before wiring it in, I wanted to test with a low voltage source and just walk around it.

The plan is to use it with my Trampa build which has a 12s4p pack of Molicel P42A, conceivably this could peak up to ~150Avwgich is well within the capabilities of this device.

Wiring is fairly straightforward, the switch operates on the pos wire only

The switch needs to be either hard wired or have a pin header added, I decided to go the latter way.

Here’s both sides of the pcb

I can relate this diagram to a 5-pin latching led switch in the parts bin and the 3 headers on the pcb

The one thing I am expecting trouble with is whether or not there is native voltage step-down adjustment for the led in the switch, the diagram above infers use of a resistor but not sure it’s necessary or what k

Before I blow a led in the switch, anyone know resistor rating or step-down voltage through the pins?
@3dservisas @Kug3lis

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Testicles 123

3 different flavors of switch on the RHS, I tried 2 of them but no joy juice on the multimeter or any led activity. I can’t remember the switch led voltage for any of them.

Then it occurred to me, the test lipo is 12v, it clearly states on the pcb
25v-60v :man_facepalming:

I also grifted the wiring diagram for the still available A/S, order has changed but the info on wiring still goodimage

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Changed the battery source to a 10s charged to 38v, still problems with the switch activation from any led switch I have.

Sorry no explosions or fires, I guess Ill have to beg a link to a switch which works

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So the switch is not switching with the switch you have or is it just the LED bit? Is it a latching switch or a push switch?

Obviously the best people to answer your question are @Kug3lis and @3DServisas, but still, color me curious!

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